CV boot for long travel

Just picked up my 17 tundra with an LSK long travel front and cantilever rear. I’m going to have some questions as things come up, I have zero history on the kit itself. I’m needing some rather quick help as the cb boots are leaking after the trip home, both inner/outers with the drivers inner torn badly- have that taped til I get it to the shop tomorrow and I’m not driving on it. I’ve read the LT axles use stock Tundra inner and outter CVs, does that mean the stock boots work? The boots also looked way too bunched together and touching, what’s normal protocol here, any different than regular CV boots?

 

This is what I use and recommend, most of my friends with LT also use the same.

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/sd...=Cv+boots&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=41421342998628

 

Thank you this was one of the options I was looking at it. Read mix reviews.

 

Stock boots here. Also a good option is what Viz mentioned above

 

Turns out my LSK kit came with RCVs. It took a few tries with stock boots to figure this out. Called up RCV and apparently they did work with LSK at one point. I didn’t think of it since they only advertise axles for dirt king and total chaos. Another huge score in my opinion with this purchase. Someone poured some serious money in it and I got a phenomenal deal

 

RCV's customer svc is exceptional. I sold a set of CVs and the buyer installed them but saw a tear in one of the boots. He reached out to me and I contacted RCV. Despite the fact their warranty is non-transferable, they shipped a replacement boot to the buyer.

 

Yup! Familiar with them from my Jeep days. They’re awesome to deal with.

 

Finally got the truck back but the clamps were contacting the lower ball joint nut on both sides, causing it to rip the clamp off again. Mentioning this here incase anyone finds themselves in the similar situation, the clamps must be clear of the low ball joint bolt/nut to not cause problems. Part of the deal but wanting to help others in the future

 

What kind of clamps are you using? Ear, earless, worm gear?

 

We used the ear clamp that came with the RCV boot kit. Not sure what the next plan of attack is but we ordered another set of clamps from RCV. Large zip ties are doing the job right now until they come in. Open to suggestions though

 

I assume its making contact when the suspension is on the down stroke when the two pieces move closer together. If your truck has limit straps, you could adjust it to limit the down travel to right before they make contact.

 

Oddly enough, it doesn't have limit straps- something on the shortlist with proper bumps. Its contacting the lower balljoint nut/bolt inside the spindle. In discussing with the tech, we think there's not enough clearance between the CV cage and the nuts for these clamps. As the CV turns, its breaking the ear. We could be wrong and open to suggestions... sick build thread too by the way

 

Shoot some pics of the setup so we can take a look to better assist

 

This happen to me with one my first LT kits after the limit straps stretched a bit. Boots were wound up like a spiral because the ear caught the lower arm at full extension. Adjusted the straps and the rest was history. I got my wheels up in the air and cycled the suspension to see how close the two pieces moved closer together due to the angles.

Added photos from my incident after I tried to straighten out the boots. You can see a couple small gouges on the lower arm where the ear hit.

 

Dont mind the terrible black overspray from the dealers "detail" department. This is after I cleaned up a bunch too.

 

The way they fabricated the spindle double shears the lower arm ball joint, which I like. lol

But I can see how little room it leaves between the RCV and bolt head. That extra 1/8" or 3/16" might be all you need for clearance. If it were me, I'd use the stock axles. I've never had any issues with them - they're plenty strong for what I do and I'd rather break those than something else in the steering. And...they'll fit.

 

I don't disagree there one bit. Having beefy axles are nice until it passes the break to the next weakest link which is usually bigger problems then an hour axle swap. We will see what the shop says. I unfortunately do not have the time to mess with things like I used to. They seem confident in a solution. If not, Ill grab another set of axles. Thanks for the help