The S.S. TRDFerguson: Captain’s Log

The guys I run with like to go fast in the desert, but the truck likes to cut power via traction control when you try to pin it in the softer stuff. The disabler simulates the press-and-hold operations that you'd need to do to fully disable traction control while playing in the dirt, and uses a toggle switch so that you don't need to remember to do it every time you get back in and start the truck up (this last part is the real reason - I hated hauling ass, losing power because I forgot to disable the nannies, then having to stop for 15 seconds to do the procedure). @KevinK has a really nice writeup of all the traction options our trucks have, at least for the 2.5 gen and prior. Some of it still applies to the 3rd gen I'm sure. https://www.tundras.com/threads/traction-control-everything-you-want-to-know.21697/

 

The guys you wheel with sound like a bunch of jagaloons lol

 

They are that, 100%

 

This is the solution I came up with…

 

Bro… the amount of shit on your console is making me itch

 

It’s an organized mess

 

That's how I describe my life

 

Picked up a sloppy seconds Revesol steering wheel from @RainMan_PNW. I had previously put a leather wrap over my SR5 wheel, and it was fine, but this thing is much nicer.


Removal is pretty easy. The sketchiest part is dealing with the airbag, but just disconnect the negative terminal on your battery, wait 20 mins, and you're fine...ish.

First step (after the first step) is popping the panels off each side of the steering wheel


That will expose the Torx screw on each side that holds the airbag assembly in the steering wheel. Once you get them loose, pull out gently on the airbag while unscrewing and you'll feel it release


The airbag has 3 connections - the ground and then orange and black clip connections. CAREFULLY pry straight out on the yellow tabs until they pop out about an eighth of an inch. You can then pull straight out on the connectors. Remove the ground connection last. Set the airbag out of the way, somewhere safe.


To remove the wheel, you'll first disconnect the two white plugs at the clock spring, then remove the 19mm nut. An impact makes that part much easier, but it can also be done with a breaker bar and a second set of hands. Just don't wrench against the steering assembly or you'll probably break shit. PRO TIP: leave the nut partially threaded so the wheel doesn't come flying off at speed when you remove it. Gently rock the wheel back and forth, up and down until it loosens and pulls off.


From there, you'll have 4 screws for the steering wheel control panels and 2 for the cruise control stalk. It's pretty self-evident how that part works, so not documenting any of it. Reverse the removal process and enjoy your new bacon leather wrapped goody.

 

Such a carefully written and helpful post…
Who are you and what have you done the real @TRDFerguson ???

 

#newyearsresolution

 

Hey, I yada yada’d the ending to balance it out a little bit…

 

but post was dec 31?

 

Octothorpeiwillbethesameoldpieceofshitintwoweeks

 

Wheel looks slick. Hows the fit and finish?

 

It’s really nice. It has a thicker feel than the stock steering wheel, and a flat back with finger grooves that give it a sports car feel. The leather and stitching are both done well. 10/10 would do again.

 

Compared to the stock Toyota leather wheel, that one was a major upgrade. I really liked it - only reason for me to let it go was because I wanted a heated one (that I am currently loving)

 

I’m able to get sweaty palms all on my own. You weirdos in the north can have that heated crap.

 

Much girth.

 

Living up to the thread name. No fish were harmed.

 

Aye matey!

 

Knocked out a few things last week and this weekend. First up is an eBay speshul MagSafe charging tray for the center console. I had previously hacked up an RMF prototype tray, and before that epoxied a wireless charger pad in the tray, but this looks much cleaner, and works well.


The fire extinguishers on the truck and Can Am got upgraded to larger bottles. Still hoping I never need them, but I feel better with them on board.



Installed L-track/VersiTrack in the truck bed for better storage tie down options. This allowed me to move the spare tire and jack rearward, and will hopefully help with the jouncing I'm getting on paneled highways and choppy desert terrain.


Oil change, swapping to 5w30, along with tire rotation and cabin filter swap were also done.


Also mounted a bunch of lights on the Can Am, using an AuxBeam switch controller to simplify wiring a bit.



Baja Designs Squadron R Sports on the front A-pilars

https://youtu.be/voRGv58eSlI

Baja Designs RTL for chase functions in the back

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4snMNSo-gRM

Blue Line Whips 2 ft whips on the roof

https://youtu.be/zRIY4tL4Jxc

 

L-track is brilliant. Does it sit proud of the other ridges? Link please

 

I asked him the same thing in a PM!

@TRDFerguson guess you need to state that and add pictures hahahahaha

 

God, you people are so needy...

It's pretty close to flush, but does poke up about a half millimeter above the ribs. It's pretty smooth, though, so I wouldn't think it would hurt much from stowing on top or sliding over the track.


Here's where I got it all: https://www.uscargocontrol.com/collections/l-track-tie-down-rails

 

Final question: does your driver side sag with the extra weight of the tire shifted or is it similar to having one-too-many donuts in the morning. Maybe the pro eagle counter-balances it?

 

Pretty sure the PE balances the weight, or at least that's what I'm trying to tell myself. I haven't noticed any (new) lean after moving the payload around.

 

You've met a few of us so that should not be a surprise




Thank you for the info, this seems pretty useful while still letting you slide items in and out of the bed or to have larger lumber laying flat across these locations without damaging the wood.

 

BOX the frame to rid yourself of bed bounce. lol