Bump Stops

So I went to install my front bump stops and snapped off one of the front rear most bump stops, trying to remove it. I removed the front forward most bump stops and installed my new Perry Parts bump stops in this location. Do I need to try and remove the broken stud and installed the bump stops in the reward location or are they ok in the front position? Also, is it ok that I’m only running one set in the front?

 

I'd get a puller kit, drill and pull the remnant out. The good part is, it should be nice and meaty in there and not too bad to get out.

I know for a fact there are guys here only running one of the two bumpstops. Would I do it myself? Preferrably no, because if you take a hard enough hit, you're setting your LCA up for some pretty serious twisting force when one arm bottoms out on the taller stop, and the other still has another inch or three of potential travel.

 

Puller kit? Do you mean an extractor or left hand drill bit? Is t there just a nut that is welded on the backside? There isn’t much room, if any, to get inside that area and see what’s actually there.

 

Can you share a pic of what you’re up against?

 

One of the pictures is the factory bump stop and the other is the Perry Parts bump stop. I broke off one of the front reward factory bumps when trying to remove.

 

Sorry, it's possible I'm not really understanding what you're saying here. The rearward bumpstop looks fine to me, other than the tip being a bit mangled. But the steel octagonal base is still intact, and that's what you should be using to remove. I assume you already know that, because you clearly pulled the other one out when installing the Perry Parts unit in the forward location. What am I missing? Where is the sheared fastener, exactly? If you can, get a pipe wrench or adjustable wrench with a mouth large enough to grab the octagonal base and spin that f'er off.

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along with what shifty said... giant set of channel locks and some real ooftuh around the large hex is what I did on my Tacoma with same style front bump stop

 

A bit off topic, but I am just in complete awe at the beautiful painted and nonrusty front undercarriage......so clean!

 

Sorry I didn’t attach these pictures with the other. This is the reward position on the drivers side. The one still intact is the passenger side.

 

Man, I live in Indiana and they love salt here. I brought the truck up from Florida so it gets coated with WoolWax every fall.

 

Get:

• A good center punch to divot dead-center of the remaining shank
• Get a good, high quality drill bit that's at least 1/8" and run a pilot hole as deep into (or thru) the shank as you can get, use oil to keep from dulling your bit if needed or quench the bit periodically (I realize working vertical poses a problem)
• Once drilled, either use a skinny step bit (unibit) or 3/16" drill bit to open the hole and remove as much of the shank as possible or drill it out using a reverse-fluted (left-hand) drill bit, which may actually pull it out alone.
• You have two options once you get to that point:

1. When you get to the point you have 2-3mm remaining on the outer edge of the shank, get a left-hand extractor and use it to try pulling the shank, CAREFULLY
2. Drill until you reach the edge of the threading in the hole, and use a pick or awl to catch a corner, then chase out the threads

Here's where people fuck this up: They don't drill out enough of the bolt shank, then they throw a left-hand extractor onto a drill and try to whip it out with the drill. Two things wrong with that: First, a drill is going to apply too much torque too rapidly, and it's going to shear that hardened fastener, and now you have a bigger problem on your hands. Second, the more product you drill out of the threaded hole, the heating and cooling that'll happen naturally, it should not only break the bond, but if you quench the hotness with Kroil or PB Blaster, the cooling action will draw penetrant in the hole, both of which will help free the remaining shank. Alternately, people don't use fresh, sharp bits, or they try to freehand drilling into the center of the fastener. Sometimes in difficult places, I'll take a center punch, punch the shank, then take a 1/16" skinny bit and drill it a couple millimeters in to get a pilot going.

This is not rocket science whatsoever, as long as you're drilling on-center, and you're widening the hole as much as humanly possible before hitting threads, extraction is a breeze.

 

This was the route I was going to go. Do you have any recommendations on hardened drill bits?

 

If you get taller bumpstops i dont think you need all 4. I’ve seen several trucks just running one on each side.

 

I've seen it also. But I wouldn't do it. Lack of parity in bumpstops introduces twisting forces. Somethings going to give, it's either going to be one arm of the wishbone on the LCA, or it's going to be your strut/shock taking that torsion.

 

I've upgraded my RC 3/1 leveling kit to Billstein 6112/5100s (which are great), however, during the process to remove the RC bump stop extensions, the shafts shredded unbelievably easy and now I'm stuck with no bump stops on the driver side (I left the passenger side on to avoid no bump stops there too).

Should I soak the intact bump stops in PB blaster for a few days before trying to remove? Any thoughts are appreciated!

 

Is this on your 2000-2006 Tundra?

If yes, can you post up some pics of what's left, so we're not blindly giving advice? I'd hate to tell you something thats not applicable to your year/make/model or specific situation, as I'm sure others on here would feel bad about too.

 

It's actually a 2021.

 

Ah. You're in the 2000-2006 subforum, not many folks in here will know your generation.

But based on what I'm seeing there, I'd use a left-hand drill bit that's about half the diameter of that fastener, drill it on-center (center punch it or pilot hole it first) and if it doesn't come out while drilling it alone, I'd drill until there's about 2mm-3mm of side wall remaining, and EZ-out it. Be sure to remove as much material as possible before EZ-out, last thing you want to do is snap off a hardened steel reverse-fluted shaft in there.

 

Perfect, I will do that! Your previous post about that method is what originally showed up when I had searched for this issue so I was hoping it would still apply here, thank you!

 

Yeah, specifically, reverse-fluted or left-handed bit. My post above fails to mention this point, so I'm editing in a sec. They're not a standard bit. The 1st video here shows you how they work, if it doesn't come out when drilling, yo ucan use an extractor like the one shown, but again, you want the least possible material remaining on the bolt before attempting. 2nd video is some examples, in his channel, and he shows what we hope will happen here - highly recommend watching a few removal videos, he has a series on bolt extraction. 3rd video is a favorite channel of myself and many others here, covering bolt extractors you can pick up, as alternatives. But give lefty bits a try. Remember to run the drill in reverse when using

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HurkfbuRxvc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYvaPbX1sT4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xStDDRevrbg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVTn6wI4g6s​