What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Right? Everyone knows Dale is the one really doing the work, that’s why I didn’t understand all the focus on the hired help.

 

I plan to go to my first Rigs and Churros in Pearland this Saturday afternoon. Should be fun. Maybe I'll sell some of my parts.

 

impressed with dales training ability. Look at that monkey use tools.

 

Yeah that is a worthy disclaimer to make. The gussets will force you to rethinking your brake line situation. Luckily Casey was on it.

 

I have no idea if this correlates, but I had to swap the upper half of my wife’s vvt solenoid in her 2008 odyssey. It looked just like that, but worse. High up on the engine block, but all caked with oil and dust. Fixed the problem and cheap relative to lots of other problems it could be.

 

changed my oil today. Mobile 1, toyota filter... Only 3.9k miles since the last change but its been 10 months and the oil was dark. The forbidden glitter showed itself. How long do I have?

 

the radiator replacement is very easy if you can do brakes. It’s like a puzzle, everything only fits one way. Just take your time. Hardest part is burping the system and getting the hose claps to slip on. Watch some YouTube videos.

T-state is also very easy, did it in a McDonald’s parking lot in 20 min.

im am no mechanic, but have learned a lot about the truck watching YouTube and with the page.

 

Let's just hope it's the solenoid not the cam seals. The solenoid is much easier to access, hah.

 

I’d do a Blackstone Labs analysis before you jump to any conclusions. Keep the driving minimal in the meantime.

 

Mornin Killa, do you have access to running vins at will during the day? I may have one to run later today.

 

Yeah, brother. I'm in the office today and can help out. I'll be here until 6 pm EST.

 

The shop floor isn't polished in a traditional sense, but rather it got an extra pass or two with the power trowel when it got poured. This really closes and consolidates the surface, and its great for a shop environment. Drips and spills wipe up without shredding a paper towel.

Also, I think that ear of yours is finely tuned. I'm guessing between 68-78 lbs. I'll get an actual weight when I get moving today.

Love this lil guy.


Todays project

 

Thanks. Ya I was surprised the radiator and thermostat look pretty straight forward. Looking forward to doing it. Will burping the system be more difficult than a normal coolant flush? Or just take longer to purge more air? I use the Lisle spill free style funnel to burp and it makes it pretty easy

 

I had to back down a hill so the heater hoses were lower than the rad cap. Pretty sure it worked like a champ.

 

5TBDT44195S497078

 

Double Cab?

 

Yesir, not my first choice...
A couple things trip my trigger on this one though. Blue(not the blurple) being one of them. And it's right in my effin back yard almost. Which is also a bad thing (salt).
Just checking if it's some unicorn lost up here in the Mitten(MI)

 

@FiatRunner
Over your way. NEW frame ffs.
But shes had some "repairs" on the passenger side wheel well, but new frame! Lol

 

I’ve got a kit on the way as we type!

 

Shoot. Yeah, I recognize that building actually. That's about 1/4 mile down the road from the Toyota dealer I get parts from.

I've never seen that color combo before. Must be dealer option? Also, curious that it's a Limited but has cloth benches. Interior looks to be in good shape, but that rust repair is eck.

 

I sent you a message with the details!

 

SOLD a few minutes ago...
thanks dude

 

Yeah, VVTi solenoid looked like it was just one bolt and you can pop it out, but I'd reference the FSM before attempting.

That said, cam seals ... I had a small leak from my driver's side seal. When I added

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 to my crankcase for shits & giggles when my valve covers were clearly leaking, it actually helped reduce the valve cover leak, but it completely resolved my cam seal leak. I no longer find oil down the front of the engine after cleaning up the residual. You may want to drop a bottle of AT-205 in your block, if you're not planning to change the oil for another 500-1000 miles or so. Give it some time to course around. About 250 miles after applying it, I'd degrease (with degreaser and a brush) both solenoids and keep an eye on them moving forward, see if the buildup returns.

 

Two tone!

Basically any two tone that isn't jade/mica is a fealer option. More common from gulf states toyota, so that's either a southern truck or some northern dealers got them too.

 

Well, the install doesn't seem like much for the 2UZ-FE engine......but the 1GR-FE is much more detailed and suggests even draining the coolant.

 

Yeah, V6 you're removing the two small hoses that pass thru the throttle body, which is something to prevent freezing of the throttle bottle assembly and its butterfly in sub-zero climates. Honestly, if I ever need to detach those on my truck, given our local climate, I'm going to bypass it completely. If it's not there anymore, there's no need to disconnect it. But even still, if you did, you're talking about losing a couple tablespoons of fluid, I'm guessing.

Anyway, I did some digging on this because I was curious. For the life of me I couldn't find the part in Toyota's EPC inside any logical places (I looked everywhere, including ), and I couldn't find the o-ring @PenderBen mentioned, but I did manage to find the sensor part numbers, the Dorman equivalent, and I also found something else I saw before in a video, about these things having a screen on them, and the screen can get clogged, I think in one of my favorite engine teardown channels? It's a cone-shaped metal VVTi screen that, if it got clogged, I could see this barfing up oil past the solenoid itself, and the pressure being great enough that it could blow by an o-ring or other seal. The parts themselves are around $100-120 for OEM, and around $60/ea from Dorman. Left/right are different.

Here's the part numbers I could pull for the V8. If any of these are hyperlinked, I didn't do it! So don't think a part being linked to scAmazon is my "OK" to buy from there. Only buy from a verified source.

OEM solenoids for V8 ---> 153300F010 (R) and 153400F010 (L)
Dorman replacement parts ---> 917292 (R) and 917293 (L)
OEM screen ---> 15678-46020
Dorman screen ---> 926126​

I'd be interested to pop one off and fish out the screen on your passenger side head to see if that little bastard is jammed up.

 

Judging by the way it looks it’s the solenoid. The vvti phasers receive full oil pressure so it will find a way out if it can

 

That's a good suggestion. I will pop it off on my next off day to see if I can get the filter out and report back. I can get it OEM new for $161.12 after my discount.....so if the screen isn't clogged then I'll just order a new one and wing it.

 

if you can get one from rock auto from NTK. Those are usually the same as the factory ones for way cheaper