Need help with LCA strategy

I'm wanting to replace the LCAs when I do the LBJs. But I really don't want to fork out the money for the OEM parts (except for the cam parts) and deal with the truck being out of service. I was wondering if anyone has gone this route.....

Buy new-cheap or used LCA with the intention of installing the Whiteline or Siberian bushings in said cheap/used LCAs. Take said LCA and new bushings to local shop to have assembled. Purchase new OEM eccentric cam washers and sleeves for install day (and use some anti-seize when installing).

Reason: I can keep riding on the existing parts, gradually buying parts, until the replacements are ready and be able to save some dollars in the process. When the day arrives to do the work I can simply replace and get fresh alignment without the down time of getting new bushings installed off-site elsewhere since I do not have a press. Existing LCAs are pretty rusted along with the front cam washers. I need to to some rust cleanup and prevention at the same time in the mount areas.

Just looking for thoughts and any tips. Thanks in advance

 

I would be shocked if you could find a shop willing to do that for a reasonable price. I think by the time you paid for bushings and labor you could have possibly bought new OEM arms for the same or less.

Toyota has been running 20-25% off sales every 2-3 months. I would wait until their next sale and buy new LCA's.

 

I was under the impression the toyota LCAs do not come with bushings

 

Nope. They come with new bushings already pressed in. Ready to install! I bought new ones a few years ago from Toyota.

 

Wouldn't installing the poly bushing from Whiteline or Siberian be better for towing needs? I pull a 6x10 enclosed trailer loaded weighing about 4,500lbs. When I come to a complete stop I can feel the truck wobble back and forth a little like the bushings are just sponges instead of bushings. When I put a pry bar up in there, they (the LCA bushing) moves and feel squishy but no obvious tears in the rubber.

this coming week I'll be asking around at a few reputable local shops (not chain store shops) about estimates for said work.

 

I mean, currently at $500+ for OEM parts, I'm thinking future proofing with poly bushing would be better than using rubber bushings given my driving conditions. Correct me if I'm wrong. I am only going off what I've read regarding the use of the polyurethane bushings.

 

So the bushings alone would be $180, plus the cost of two used LCA's (with unknown history, who knows if they were bent slightly, the donor truck is in the junk yard after all). But say you could get them for $50 each. Plus it's going to be $50 - $100 to get them pressed in just based on $100 per hour shop rate. You're already at $380. Those $510 LCA's will be $407 on sale, just $27 more. Plus if you get them from some dealers not in your state, there is no sales tax.

 

Another factor to consider- the actual metal that the OEM arms are made of will be significantly higher quality. Check out this video:

Start at the 20min mark
https://youtu.be/DK_Tu_K3BHI?si=nbsJdoWQ_gRPSurn

 

I have never heard of anyone mention these concerns regarding towing and lower control arms bushing. These trucks were rated to tow(6-7k lbs?). I think you're overthinking this. The symptoms you're experiencing are likely unrelated to your LCA bushings.

 

Side note, we often get a pair of moog LCA’s if we’re replacing them for a customer at the shop; you could go that route (it might be cheaper than oem Toyota) granted with the LBJ issue of the 1st gen’s idk if you’d want to get non oem LBJs

 

I'm in the process of prepping for this job too. I just emailed a place here in Canada about the Siberians to get an ETA on some FGT LCA bushings cuz the site says theyre out of stock. I haven't heard of the Whiteline ones but gonna check them out.

In terms of install, why not just remove your current arms and put new bushings in them? I was planning to sandblast and paint. I just read a thread on a FGT FB page that a guy says the bushing removal is the tough part and that you can press them back in with a big C clamp. I plan to just burn the bushings out with an oxy/prop torch and cut the metal bushing sleeve with a hacksaw blade in a sawzall (careful not to cut the arm... before pressing in the new poly bushings.

Ive also read in multiple locations that the MOOG cam adjustment bolt/washer kit works fine.

Just looked on the Whiteline site and they dont list bushings for the FGT

 

I think from what I can gather he doesn’t want the downtime of taking the old ones off, bringing them to a shop and having the work done (and maybe assuming no other ride to bring him)

 

If you want it done in a day, cut out the old alignmemt CAM hardware, replace with new Moogs, save the removed LCAs and have the bushings pressed out and replaced by a local shop at your leisure.

Now you have another set of LCAs when you need to change them in the future.

 

@Shifty

 

Wrong person, I didn’t get the notification. Someone else setup an account with the username “shifty” but isn’t posting and people keep tagging them instead, so I don’t get the notification. Keeps happening. I’m sure it’s intentional, but whatever.

This ^^^ 1,000%

Question: You are talking about poly and rubber; do you understand the pros and cons of each?

Rubber is more cushion, softer, more forgiving, less wear and tear on collateral parts. If OEM specifically, Toyota’s blend of rubber typically lasts an absurd amount of time compared to cheap aftermarket rubber. It absorbs hits like nothing, and you almost cannot over-squish or split it.

Poly is rigid, stiff, unforgiving, and if put under extreme load or overtightened, it will shear/split. There are a few pics of it on here. I would use it in places where things are more stationary, like cab mounts and steering racks, or swaybar links, although for cab mounts, the extra cushion of rubber is nice for a less jarring ride. I would not use it in places that see highly focused up/down forces like UCA, LCA, and lower shock mounts on our trucks.

I dunno what you’ve read. But I’d be curious what you saw specifically that’s nudging you this way. I’ve met a lot of the “poly bros” who think poly is superior to rubber and want to “poly all the things”, regardless the function. I’m of the mindset it’s awesome when used the right way, with application in mind.

 

Thanks for the heads up!

 

I can't find any other reason for the rocking motion when coming to a complete stop. But one way or another the bushings are at the end their life.

The idea behind poly bushings was to future proof and not worry about them going bad. I've read a fair bit about the pros and cons. While I would tend to agree with the location poly is used, I was trying to think outside the box and maybe save myself a little money and address the cheap quality. The downtime of the truck is an issue though, and why I was considering the gradual approach of building a set of LCAs if I were to go the bushing replacement route. And I'm not sure if these bushings will hold on til the the next time Toyota has a sale.

I asked for your thoughts. Appreciate it.

While contemplating my options on the LCAs I'm also sorting out my plan to replace strut & spacer lift the PO slapped together. Horrible, just absolutely horrible ride. Planning on going the same route as my Tacoma with 5100s front and back, but keep the stock springs.

 

I just got a message back from Siberian, they said Mar-Apr 2025 the bushings will be back in stock.

 

Non-OEM rubber is trash

Poly requires periodical greasing.

blown shocks and/or worn out leafs.

my OEM LCA's have nearly 280k on them. The rubber is meh, but doesn't do anything crazy.

my truck likes to lean with it and rock with it if I come to a stop quickly.

 

Not only this, if you don't use poly-safe grease, you can wreck those bushings, and if you don't use grease everywhere that poly touches anything metal, SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK with every movement or bump. It's enough to drive people mad. It's why I won't use exposed delta or uniball joints on anything, and why I'm using aftermarket UCA that don't use delta joints or uniball. Squeaking drives me nuts, and poly loves to squeak during flex events.

 

No need for a press. Make a jig like this to press in new bushings:



Note, old bushings can be removed using a bottle jack placed between the control arm eyelets.

 

Ok, thank you for all the input.

I realize that, but again, I was just trying to sort out an alternative.

Your longer post makes good points, along with this one about the squeaks. I have a four wheeler that has a single poly bushing and it likes to sing to me.
I'll go with the OEM route I suppose since it appears I can get decent discount at the moment

Toyota Parts has a 15% sale right now this week. What I have pictured is everything I anticipate needing OEM parts-wise. I would like some who are familiar with the job to confirm this is what I will need, or if I am forgetting something.


I'm hoping I will still be able to use the cam bolts and washers and just replace the sleeves since I'm expecting they will not come out need cutting. The night before, I plan to soak the cam bolts with PB Blaster and give it hell the next day without stripping the bolts. If I'm mistaken in this, just say so.

 

I thought about this, but am worried that I would "spread" the arm apart.

 

I was able to reuse all of my cam hardware with a little clean up when I replaced the LCA's on my truck at 290k miles. My truck lived in the south (GA, FL, AL, AR) until I got ahold of it.

 

my cams and control arm...came from Arkansas then Daytona, FL

 

Your truck is surprisingly crustier than mine, but not terrible. It will be interesting to see how corroded those cam sleeves are and if they have fused to the LCA bushing.

 

Yup. Timmy the Toolman on Youtube mentions this in his LCA bushing videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FzEHygizoI&t=993s

 

I can post picks just for reference afterwards. Of course I'll try to get the sleeves out as reasonably as possible before resorting to the sawzall, but i have a feeling. There are a few smaller insignificant bolts here and there that I've noticed, the worst being one of the front three that holds the skid plate is snapped, and the others being difficult to remove without some finesse and PB Blaster due to corrosion.

 

I know what you mean about the poly squeak, it will drive you insane, I had an '88 Pathfinder that I used poly control arm bushings on and they were maddening. The design was worse though, the poly was just pressed into the arm itself, these bushings are already bonded inside a metal sleeve so the poly doesnt make contact with any moving parts. So these should be quiet right? i'll have to do some digging for siberian reviews.