Chasing a Chatter in Rear Diff

At a stop, I have a chatter. I've been chasing it. I'm thinking it's the rear diff, because it started happening after I change the rear suspension (it was lowered and I went with OEM height). I was wondering if anyone noticed a "B" on their rear leaf spring seats. Trying to figure out what the B is for.

 

Pictures would help a lot here just to see if anything was left-over from the lowering kit that is causing issues.

 

It chatters while you’re stopped? Or when coming to a stop? Do you have an LSD rear differential? Where did you get the new leafs from? What lowering equipment did you remove? Is your axle above or below the leaf springs? Have the rear brakes ever been adjusted?

 

The leaf packs are directional. You didn't happen to install them backwards, didja? They're longer on one side of the centering pin than the other. Installing backwards would probably pitch the rear diff at such an angle the driveshaft make smack the carrier, or wobble in it. Dunno.

 

I remember paying close attention to this and measuring, but I'll double check tonight.

I did tighten down the nuts at the spring seat and they were about three turns off. Not loose, but not tight either. After tightening and driving around the block it felt much more solid. I'll measure the springs and make sure they're in there correctly.

The other thing I was thinking was transmission mount. It has a little bit of play, but it's rubber, so I assume there should be a little bit of play. I think I'll have to address motor mounts and transmission mount next, just to make sure.

 

You don't mean the u-bolts, do you? Regardless, there are torque specs to consider.

 

Yes, the nuts at the u-bolts. Hayne's manual calls for 93ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern, I believe. I should have tightened them down after going for a test drive the first time.

Now, on to the exhaust. Got a leak and the muffler has something rattling in there.

 

Factory U bolts or aftermarket? Did you reuse some old ones or replace?

 

Got some from ATS, same place I got the springs, stock spec. Old ones were bent garbage. Previous owner did a "poor man's" lowering kit on it with welded blocks. I went back to stock height.

 

Those may have different torque specs than stock. My replacement U bolts came with a sticker on them with the torque specs for them.

 

I love you...I'll give them a call tomorrow. I did torque to 100 which is right around that range. I figure I'll recheck and re-torque at the next two oil changes. I'll see what they say though. Appreciate it SO MUCH! I've been chasing this thing since I changed the suspension, although, I don't drive it hardly at all. Only when I get a job that needs to haul materials.

 

I wanna say mine were 150ft#

 

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/recommended-u-bolt-torque

 

I just called them and max torque is 100 ft-lbs, so I'd say I'm good. Talking to a gentleman at Dirty Deeds for a new exhaust, mine's all welded, mangled and rattling. Appreciate all the replies!

 

You’d know if the leafs were backwards, wheel would be way off center from the wheel well.

and aftermarket u-bolts definately have a different torque rating. I think it was beau’s truck that we couldnt get the torque wrench to click.

i’d focus on the trans mount. Pretty sure i’ve read of several 2wd having loose or missing bolts.

 

I check trans mount bolts and even the cross support member. Should the rear wheel be in the exact center?

They're pretty close, from front of wheel well to tire is 4 3/4" and the rear of the tire is 4 1/2" from the back of the wheel well.

 

This is backwards:

 

Oh yeah lol. It ain't that bad.

 

Figured I would post this here instead, because it's more applicable.

Got some more diagnostic information:
1) Today, at around 1,300 to 1,500RPM (very small window) there was a metal on metal grinding sound I've never heard before. Only on cold start up. Shifts great. After it warmed up it stopped. I did a trans flush but am concerned because I put 4 quarts in and, with the engine running and on jack stands on level ground, I pulled the overflow plug until it drizzled, per every instructions I've read. Now, A LOT of fluid came out, like most of everything I put in. I wonder if the overflow tube can come out resulting in a process which drains most of the AT fluid. I had an Audi that was a plastic tube in pan and it pulled right out. I assume if this was pulled out and never replaced, I would probably be looking at a new pan or overflow tube. Just not sure if they are able to be picked out; and
2) Couldn't recreate the vibration today, but I've noticed that my truck pulls or lurches when it gets initiated into gear (R or D). It sort of lurches as if it wants to go. Initiating into gear is a bit rough too. Like I said, it shifts great in drive, but going into gear it pops forward or back.

Any thoughts from the greatest group in the world? Tried attaching a video, but it's .mov (Apple) format. Let me try to get it into another format so y'all can see.

 

Just talked to the parts department at Toyota. That tube in the trans pan is not a serviceable items, which hopefully means it can't come out. It ain't that.