1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Got back home from the hospital. New battery was damn near dead. Think it’s from my obd2 reader LOL.

 

Man you're leaking all kinds of stuff lately

 

when my truck drove through snow, it figured it better start rust proofing itself.

 

Maybe not fast acceleration wise… but first generation Boxster Ss are pretty quick. And they’re fairly cheap to own compared to many sports cars.

Also you probably know, but there’s a big performance difference between pre and post facelift LS430s. My mom’s 06 would destroy my 02 in any event.

 

But it was a question. He wants answers, not arguments.

 

Corolla/matrix xrs.

 

Fast (enough), cheap (enough), reliable (enough).

xr650L.


find one old enough to have a kick start.

 

Okay so I’m looking at this off-road bumper by coast off-road
https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/1st-gen-tundra-high-clearance-front-bumper-kit/

In the description it says you could run 37s without interference (highly unlikely i’ll ever get 37s) but hypothetically, if i wanted 35s, would the biggest problem on a stock truck be the clearance or are there a lot of other things that need to be upgraded in order to run that big of tires.

let me know if i need to try to reword this, not entirely sure if it makes complete sense.

 

It’s not usually the bumper that gets in the way, it’s the firewall tubs that can’t clear 35s

 

This is the minimum amount of work needed to truly fit 35s and have full operation of the suspension. Anyone who runs 35s but hasn't done anything like this is not being completely honest with you. https://www.tundras.com/threads/phantom-gray-on-35s.71769/#post-1846505

 

Painful truth. There are a lot of people who want to believe it's possible, and I've definitely seen people claim it's possible on this very forum, but just looking at the pictures, you know they're rubbing on every bump.

 

No chance they’re clearing. Im on a 305/70 and they’re not even fully cleared. I don’t rub on the street, but while wheeling they rub. I do have a much more aggressive wheel than most, but I don’t see how it’d be any better with more “optimal” specs. Not to mention, Ive done major trimming and cutting.

 

VVTI?

 

All 3UZs are VVTi, but the 04-06s have a 6 speed, lower differential ratio, and were offered with a sport wheel/tire/suspension package that included 18s, summer tires, and firmer springs/shocks. 01-03s have a 5 speed and 17s with real spongy tires. Both handle well but there is a massive difference.

 

And so it begins.......again. got home to more boxes to throw in the parts pile.

Some Billy 5100s for an F-250 and a manual prop valve.


Some rear brakes.


And I got some parts for Donut. The CKS is going in today, the rest when I get a new serp belt and can pump the r-134 out.

A Denso CKS for my Ford because fuck Motorcraft.


New A/C comp.


New dryer and some A/C lube.


And a new 200A alternator.


The new o2 sensors for a VW tiguan should be here next Thursday. No idea why it takes them an extra week. The plan is to hit everything at once so I only have to pull the S/C off once.

 

Whats stopping yall from making a bracket to hang that air heater off the front of the tundras engine?

 

Fuel system, tuning, weak trans, custom belt, 335k miles. Other than that, nothing.

 

If they are OEM then more than likely they are shipping from Germany.

 

Got my tranny hot & it didnt blow.

Not excessively hot, just checked the fluid while it was warm, and its all there. Got grandma to her appt & she got a shot in her knee that seems to be helping, and the truck performed like normal, no surprise-neutral or numbness. Gonna blame that issue on the wind.

 

I bought em from RA. Densos.

 

Turns out Denso is German……

 

Like I told @JakeJake, however much you hate automotive engineers, it's not enough. Replaced the CKS on Donut. To get to it, you have to pull the compressor out of the way and push it back. To get the compressor out of the front to replace it, you have to pull the sway bar. Whatever.







Top bolt hits the frame, bottom back bolt hits the steering rack. They pull out enough to move the compressor around, but now you're trying to keep the bolts pushed in just enough not to catch on shit while holding the 10lb(I dunno, I'm guessing) compressor.

Anyways, I got it out and pulled the CKS out covered in clean oil with some funk on the end like our ABS sensors can do.

I'm convinced Denso just grinds the OEM logo off and sells them.


That's the CKS hole.


Well, like I also told Jake, round 1 of the parts cannon failed. New cks and still no start. That was a bitch.



Round 2 is gonna be o2 sensors. If it doesn't start then, I don't know. This Haltech is gonna be the death of me.

 

How much was the class? Take a couple weekends, $500 or w/e, & learn something. You could start a revolution & become the shifty of stand alone ecu’s for tundras. I’d buy a haltech if someone could get the exhaust backlash to sound just right.

 

I need to vent for a minute. Not Tundra related because Toyota engineers are smarter.

This Dodge Journey is going to be the death of me. Just like that, no start. No crank. Won’t turn over. Won’t take a jump. Has power. I assumed battery because it’s push button and on the Subarus, the starter won’t engage under a certain voltage. Also assumed battery because in 3 years I’ve never changed it.

Ok, replaced battery. BTW, Fiat put this battery inside the right front bumper. But wait it gets better, it can only be accessed from the left front fender liner. Step one, remove left front wheel. Step two, remove left front fender liner. Step three, get a child with tiny hands to get in there with a 10mm ratcheting spanner to remove the terminal clamps. Pain in the rear end. No surprise, battery has a 5/21 sticker, but tested good. Well, after going through all of that I figured I’ll replace it anyway because I was already there. Still will not turn over.

Next I checked the fuse and the relay. All good and there is power going to the relay so I know the switch is good. No bmf, it’s not the fuel filter. Why not just test the starter you ask? Well here’s why, it’s located behind the (dolphin noises) intake manifold! Yeah. Stupid Fiat.

So now I have to remove the airbox, upper rad hose and intake manifold just to get to the starter. I can reach the side of the cylinder with a long extension. Whacking the side does nothing. It’s either toast or I have a short. We’ll see once I decide to pull all of that crap.

Stupid Fiat!

 

Kill switch in glove box still engaged?

 

Before i can relate i need to know how you let a fiat onto your property.



i’d find out everything i could about the dealership tracking device. We all know who buys dodge journeys.

 

This is my curse

 

the g-force kill switch? I know it was in the trunk of 90’s tbird. Dunno if all vehicles have em, but its in the pass kickpanel on 00’s rangers.

 

The wife thought it was cute. The kids drive it. I came home one day and it was in the driveway.

I’ll check with the Grapevine Dodge, asshole