Power steering pump replacement

What are people using for replacement power steering pumps in the 1st Gen Tundras?
Toyota OEM 443100c030 has been discontinued with no replacement part.
It seems that the reman from different auto parts stores are iffy at best. Cardon and BBB reviews don’t give a lot of confidence. What are people installing? And what’s your review?

 

I don't think power steering pumps are a common replacement item for most. What issues are you having? I'm sure there's a few that have replaced theirs though but I'm not for sure who.

 

I'm due for one sooner than later. Mine has been whining for a month now. Did the flush, no change. It works great and only whines at idle. Goes away with turns and revs. @BroHon keeps telling me to put fabric softener in it.

@805Tundra did you replace yours yet?

 

I need to replace my pulley and HP hose.

these pumps are indestructible.

 

I’m thinking electric steering rack.

 

Looks like they still sell Toyota rebuild kits.

 

I heard that tip from fancy hands

 

If it were me, this is what I would go with. Summit Racing has the same one for about $40 more.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14661061&cc=1418475&pt=7380&jsn=457

 

R.I.P.

 

To be fair, after RockAuto tosses on tax, and Summit gives you free shipping, about 60-80% of that savings is out the door.

Nothing for naught but there's supposedly a rebuild kit or two out there, here's one I found: https://www.partsgeek.com/m4r61x9-toyota-tundra-power-steering-pump-seal-kit.html

I cannot confirm or deny it's right, but it seems to fit and is a fraction of what a new part cost. But until you tell us why you need one, can't really know if a simple rebuild is in order.

 

Actually, posting this here just 'cause. Parts numbers listed here.

There may be more than one kit, I'd trust the Gates kit, looks identical to the phoo for the more expensive Edelmann kit, though some have had luck with Sunsong lines on our trucks...

​

 

Saw this today:

https://fr33lancefab.com/products/first-gen-tundra-sequoia-oem-power-steering-pump

 

The PS pumps in our trucks are pretty indestructible. Mine whined for years and had been run dry on more than one occasion. Only reason I replaced it was because I was sick of the noise. Still steered fine.

What did I replace it with? A used OEM pump.

 

Mine with 229K whines pretty bad while turning at low speeds and take a few seconds for assist to kick in. I'm doing my second fluid flush tomorrow with correct fluid but first flush made no difference.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/power-steering-flush-how-to.85254/

 

replace w/ one from the junkyard if the next flush doesn't work.

I used Valvoline ATF and have zero issues.
Red bottle. The good shit.

 

So, two things here.

One. Our trucks have a natural low groan from the power steering pumps. It was very offputting to me when I first got my truck, I was thinking to myself 5ish years ago, "How the hell would the power steering pump be going out with 60k original miles?!" A lot of people say putting a tablespoon of liquid fabric softener into the reservoir helps reduce some of that. I'd really need to hear it with my own ears to confirm whether your groan is naturally what we expect, but it's worth mentioning, every 1st gen I've ever heard has a slight groan to the power steering, and it's a sound I associate with - after 40 years of turning wrenches - a sketchy power steering pump.

Two. "Takes a few seconds for assist to kick in". "Assist" comes from the Power Steering Air Control Valve which is located here (the blue thingy). That valve is known to fail, and when it finally does fail, you'll sometimes see puffs of smoke out the exhaust during cold starts. If the vacuum hoses going to/from it (yellow lines) are cracked or loose, it will behave as you've described also, but soon-to-fail valve may also. The valve is expensive, regardless whether you buy OEM or aftermarket, but it's very easy to test if it's working properly or not. It's sometimes a bitch to remove the valve so you can reinstall another. The valve is one-way, so if it's sticking as it tries to open, you'd absolutely feel a delay in power steering to kick in. Again, testing will answer whether the valve is the problem. But the basic concept of that little blue rabbit-ear looking valve is simple: When the pressure rises in the power steering system because you're turning the wheel, the valve either closes or opens (I forget), which changes the vacuum pressure on the engine, causing the idle to kick up, IIRC, making it easy to turn.

​

 

Thank you for that info. I haven’t had any smoke on startup since I bought the truck in November but I will definitely test that valve later today.

 

Wait, actually? Like, for real? I thought you guys were messing with me when you mentioned that in my refresh thread.

 

That's what I would go with personally.

 

can't go wrong w/ fr33lance. And $300 ain't bad at all

 

Performed another flush today, this time I thoroughly removed all the fluid and spent wayyy too long cleaning the reservoir and got a ton of junk out, refilled it and bled it and still very loud. So fr33lance or rebuild kit will likely be in my future.
My valve seems to be faulty as rpm neither increased or decreased during the test.
Anyways sorry to hijack the thread!

 

i think its the silicone is the magic ingredient.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hZKvm...0dW5kcmEgcG93ZXIgc3RlZXJpbmcgcHVtcCByZWJ1aWxk

 

Seriously. Supposedly helps. Haven't tried it myself, but multiple people here have done it with our trucks and previous vehicles. You may want to research which brand is recommended.

As long as you followed the directions to the letter, and didn't forget to fully turn the wheel full-lock left or right before starting the test, then yeah, valve is likely bad.

Honestly, the Dorman brand part from a reputable source (i.e. not scAmazon or fleaBay) should do you fine. If SMP (Standard Motor Products) sells one, I'd trust them too.

BEFORE you replace or service the pump, replace that valve heed this warning. Air in the system *will* cause added moaning/groaning. If, after flushing the system, you didn't chock your rear wheels, lift both front wheels, start the truck, and turn the wheels lock-to-lock a few dozen times slowly to push ALL air out of the system, you should do that. Draining/refilling is a very easy/common way to introduced air bubbles into the system.

 

Yikes. $300 for a rebuilt pump with a poorly painted pulley. Almost looks like there was rust underneath in that photo.

Guess it works if you don’t want to spend $50 and the afternoon rebuilding it yourself. Toyota still sells the rebuild kit.

 

The reason I posted asking about a replacement power steering pump is my pump has been growling at startup for about a year+. I wouldn’t normally replace because of noise but I needed to replace the alternator and since you have to half way remove the power steering pump I thought I’d replace it.
Now the alternator has been replaced and the power steering pump is the same. I have not done a flush since I installed the new rack about 65k miles ago.
With what I’ve read I’m planning on flushing the power steering fluid and see how it goes…
Currently at 371k miles. What an amazing truck!

 

I would definitely do a fluid flush, and also remove the reservoir and clean it out real good. I purchased a used OEM pump and reservoir with only like 45k miles on it, and an unbelievable amount of gunk and dirt came out of the screen at the bottom. I probably could’ve left my original pump and just flushed/cleaned it.

 

Honest question here...What makes you think it's a poorly painted pulley? From my perspective it looks really well done. Maybe it's just the glare from wherever they took the photo? Even if there was rust, I'd imagine they'd clean it up really well, neutralize the rust, and then paint. I'd imagine they don't fix any pitting in the metal or any casting marks that aren't near the belt seat. If they were just painting over rust I bet they'd have a lot of unhappy customers who would receive it in the mail and immediately see the issue.

 

The portion in the center of the pulley around the axis doesn’t look smoothly finished from the angle shown. That’s not going to impact what’s important though which is how it functions.