General Supercharger Thread

To assist in the discussion, just keep adding/editing this list with your username and VB option.

@Cruisers & Co. Does the version of VB upgrade matter or does either apply (nomad & extreme)?

Nomad: https://cruisersandcompany.com/products/tundra-series-6-speed-nomad-valve-body

Extreme:
https://cruisersandcompany.com/products/tundra-3ur-fe-6-speed-extreme-heavy-duty-valve-body

Manufacturer Link:
https://automatictransmission.com.a...ed-auto/?make=Toyota&model=Tundra&series=5.7L V8 Petrol with 6 Speed Auto


Potential Group Buy Participants

Valve Body:
@bflooks (extreme)
@reywcms (extreme)
@Silver17 (extreme)
@centex (extreme)
@ARES35 (extreme)
@Abell207 (extreme)
@HulkSmurf14 (extreme)
@ZPhilip (extreme)

Trifecta (or other combo):
@Bluecobra (?)

 

A couple of other questions regarding the valve body upgrades...


Does the upgrade create a faster wear rate to the OE transmission and its components? I understand that anyone throwing more power into their drivetrain will naturally cause faster wear to components, but if somenone is looking to just clean up the lackluster OE shift behavior of our rigs and is not boosted (at least not right now )??? I would assume that cleaner shifts, etc. would actually reduce wear long term, but that's just me spitballin'...

Also, just confirming that the 'nomad' would also be ideal if future plans include the addition of boost??? (not to exceed 8psi)...

 

Using a built valve body will extend the life of the transmission. The valve body accumulators and plug passages in stock form wear faster causing clutch slippage. Having full line pressure/with no loss extends clutch disk life.

 

I'm not going to lie, I like the fact we don't get to see the special sauce. It will either work, or it won't, similar to the Speedmaster vs Powertrax experiment underway. And I like the fact they are willing to speak in ballpark HP numbers.

If Nomad is good for, let's say, 7-8psi in the form of the factory SC option of yesteryear, then we can have confidence that it's good for around 500-525WHP. Assuming there is head room, can it handle a pulley swap, or is it really capped at the (in ballpark) 525WHP range?

Extreme has been confirmed by WAT to be able to support numbers that are pushing the limits of the entire transmission, not just the VB.

Educated guesses based on my readings and emails with a goal of reducing or eliminating trans failure (really don't understand Nomad ranges and is the missing link for truly informed discussion/comparisons):

Stock VB: up to ~425/450 WHP
Nomad VB: up to ~500- 525WHP
Extreme VB: up to ~650-700 WHP

Throw stones at the ranges. I'm just trying to help decipher capabilities since it'll help people with planning. Getting the real-world feedback on driving experience will help determine how far forward people should plan when doing an upgrade. You know, like a lunchbox locker for an eventual trail rig instead of a Powertrax for the next 10 years before it becomes trail dedicated. It'll work, but why would you do that to yourself?

 

I will find out! They do sell almost every individual when asked.

WAT has a range of transmission rebuilds, from normal to their “extreme plus”. I’ll have to look into the specifics of the AB60 rebuilds that they offer but for instance in the 80 series A442 they will machine the case to increase the clutch/steel count for greater clamping ability. The extreme rebuild for the AB60 at least has a nomad/extreme installed, all clutches, orings, gaskets replaced.

 

Not sure what day yet but I have a meeting with Rodney from WAT early this week and I will nail down a HP range for each of the products so that we all have a better idea of what the nomad vs extreme will handle.

For NA trucks towing/ low boost the Nomad will be the way to go. Higher HP the extreme.

They do not list the AB60 Rebuild for the Tundra but do for the 200 Series behind the 1VDFTV (V8 Diesel) and I will get the exact details of what goes into the AB60 rebuild and why they don’t have it listed for the tundra (likely an just an oversight).

Want to get all the info possible for you guys!

 

Any AE80F VB upgrades available?

 

What am I looking at here?


Also, about 2pm, the shop said there were misses in 1&3, he ordered new plugs & I never heard from him again. I assembled the stand, hope to bring the motor & truck home today.

The quality is good compared to the cheaper one, All of these I have seen online had the Daytona branding on the inside leg, I guess they just didn't care/want to "advertise"?

 

Custom intake for with a ump offroad filter can. Used commonly in offroad applications. But it doesn’t flow enough air is the problem

 

My first thought was that it looked like a DPF filter.

 

For anyone interested, the stock coolant overflow on the fan shroud is fairly easy to remove if you want to replace with an aftermarket unit. I cut the tank off with a oscillating tool and ground down the plastic with a flap disc. Once you grind down enough plastic, the back piece will fall out of the shroud. Now I just need to clean up the edges and epoxy on a flat piece of ABS, and reinstall.

 

I just came back from the shop, he insists there was never a wiring issue, sent a ton of files showing they verified all well, insists the MAF which looks fine to me was the issue & is accusing me of "messing with something" to lose the throttle the two times that happened, his proof is it never happened to him.

I just got a log & sent it to Sniv, the shop thinks it is the injectors in 1 & 3, anyone have 2 Five-O 650s they can part with (or a full set of 750's they upgraded from)

 

Stock radiator overflow deleted and ChaseBays overflow mounted on the driver's side and plumbed up. That should be everything that needs to be moved other than the ProSpeed SC coolant reservoir, which is about to get replaced by a CXRacing reservoir that is 2.4 gallons. Just waiting for the paint to dry.

 

I've got a set of the PS 750cc injectors with harnesses, ready to ship. Cleaned and tested in Feb '24, have been bagged ever since removal.

 

That cleans it up nicely!! Time to get your higher pressure TRD rad cap!!

 

Posted wrong injector cleaning results, below are the PS 750's before and after cleaning. The injectors were removed in May '24 when I replaced with the Five-O injectors

 

How much

PM'd

 

This is kind of what I was after with my WHP Q.

Based on the write up of the Extreme VB even a base S/C will exceeds the +50% or more power guideline.

 

Final BMW motor pictures.

Be peachy if I can get the truck back Friday to go get it.

 

I painted the new reservoir wrinkle black. Here it is on my janky mounting solution. 4x M6 male to female rubber isolators screwed into M6 nutserts, with M6 threaded rod that has flanged nuts and washers to keep the reservoir elevated. The wheel well is a curve, and it's impossible to flat mount anything there, the rubber isolators take up the deflection and allow the threaded rod to line up with the mounting tab holes on the reservoir. It's surprisingly rigid with everything tightened down, but I will revisit for a better solution at some point. To-do list is getting shorter and I'm getting closer to reinstalling the intake tube.

 

Zerks on the stand were pretty bad, one ripped off when I removed the gun. The one on the rotating assembly was impossible to get the gun on so I replaced them all.

 

Wanted to follow up on this as I just got off the phone and discussed all the options with Rodney at WAT down under.

In the case of anyone trying to make 40% or more power then the Extreme will be the way to go, this is the majority of you.
NA wanting firmer shifts, better towing capability, running larger tires then the Nomad is for you.

We also discussed the need for keeping the transmission as cool as possible. The cooler the fluid the higher viscosity it will have which in turn helps clamping force. To help with that they have their cast aluminum pan that adds 25% more capacity to the system, their cooler kit which acts as an additional cooler for the 2018 and down truck and as the primary cooler for the 2019 and up. 2019 and up will have a few extra parts that are needed to add a cooler. Also the torque convertor lockup kit prevents the Torque converter from slipping and greatly reduces heat entering the system and increases engine braking. For those of you that do any towing, it is highly recommended by WAT.

For those going ALL OUT (@bflooks looking at you!) Rodney suggested switching out and doing a complete flush to DEX lll non synthetic fluid. It is much thicker and will provide a lot more clamping force as it's way thicker than the TWS ATF. This comes with an updated fluid change schedule of once a year at minimum. After the first flush you need to drive it gently for awhile and then do another flush to get the rest of the Toyota World Standard ATF out of the transmission.

A note on the TC lock up kit and Valve body upgrade, a client with a GX460 (1UR-FE) w/ nomad valve body logged fuel economy on same trip twice. Non locked was 18.7 mpg, Locked was 23.3 mpg. A nice mpg gain!

I will decide on the last bit of numbers tonight and then get something on the website tomorrow for you guys. There will be a standard discount for just a VB and then if you add to the order with the ancillary parts there will be a steeper discount.

Stay tuned!

 

Man I wish I weren't in a 2 front war right now.

 

Deleting the overflow tank on the fan shroud gave me the room I needed, this is the ProSpeed 4.5" intake, so a 5" intake should fit. I have a replacement power steering reservoir I need to install so the intake can come down some. The Harrop MAF/IAT harness was long enough to reach the new location without being strained. The vacuum-actuated bypass hose was long enough to reach the barb on the new snout. I had to redirect one of the barbs on the bottom of the snout to point to the driver's side. I did that by heating up the snout around the barb with MAP gas, and used a phillips head screw driver inserted in the barb to rotate it around, then added green loctite to the interface between the snout and barb to seal it back up.

 

Oh man! You didn't just start an oil debate, did you?

Interesting on the fluid recommendation away from WS. I'm already on annual changes, so this isn't a big deal. With a cooler, it's also easy enough to purge the entire system quickly for that first swap and do a second drain/fill.

Do you (or they) have insight into the Flex Lock portion of everything? Specifically, does the Lock Controller simply bypass that capability as well, and only when activated?

 

Not sure if you were boxing that in somehow, but Dei makes a formed material I've been dabbling with trying for the same thing. Your filter location really isn't that different from the Turbo install.

 

Explain the lock up kit more. What’s different with it versus tuning the ecu to control the lock up.

I like the dex 3 recommendation. I’d imagine anyone could do that at any time.

 

I was planning on cutting a hole in the panel beneath the filter's current location and housing the filter element in there, completely out of the engine bay. The SAIS air pumps are normally mounted in that area, but I removed mine when I installed the Hewitt system, so there should be enough room, I just need to work out how to do it.

 

https://automatictransmission.com.au/shop/genii-torque-converter-lockup-control-kit-to-suit-tundra/

I was just going to ask that as well. I'll have to get a bit more info on the DEX 3 as I'm pushing 14psi at times and would like some added protection. Also is the price point on the bigger pan on par with B&M, PML?

 

Interesting about the fluid. If that’s the path then I may just dump it in when the new trans goes in from the get go. I’ve got the b&m pan here on the work bench ready.