Looking to buy a Tundra

Hi,

I've been shopping for a used Tundra.

Currently looking at a 2013 SR5 4WD 4.7 V8 with 115k miles.

I've read about this p2440 code. How common is that and how hard to repair yourself?

Is there anything else to look for or be concerned about for this one?

Thanks for the help!

 

Welcome from NY.

 

The truck you are looking at has that code? That code means some part of the SAIS is broken, it’s usually minimum 1k to fix on up to many thousands if a dealer does the work vs diy bypasses.

 

No, it doesn't have that code, sorry, should have said that. I just saw 2 reviews on Edmunds.com in the first 2 pages of reviews that were complaining about that code and the $2000-3000 fix from the dealer. One guy said he had to fix it twice.

 

Thank you NY!

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!

 

Thank you Lower Alabama!

Thats one place I dont think I have ever been but want to.

 

I’ll throw some good advice in that will resonate based on your posts op. Your liking to buy an old ass truck like many of us here drive. Make no mistake, even though we are all enamored with our super cool FGTs, these are old ass trucks. The only discount old ass truck mechanics around are you and your buddies. So if you’re buying one of these and can’t stomach the high price of repairs, I would pass. Owning an old truck and making the money make sense for most of us means we work on them ourselves. If you’re handy and love a project, these are great trucks that are worth owning and repairing. They need relatively major maintenance every 100K miles. Numerous smaller repairs occasionally, but rarely the big replacements other old trucks do. Motors and transmissions rarely go bad with maintenance. I still have all of my original motor accessories on mine at 25 years and 277k miles. AC, alternator, PS pump, etc. Everything on my truck still works as well.

 

Ohh, yes this is a common issue for Gen 2 tundras but people just do the Hewitt bypass kit for sub 1k$ and it’s fixed forever. The newer Gen2s have slightly better SAIS designs so tend to not fail as often. This issue is for emissions and not related to the actual running (outside of going into limp mode) of the vehicle (what is failing is either air pumps or valves).

 

Well come on down! Much of the year it's the most beautiful, ecologically diverse places on the whole continent. However, for much of June-August, you'll be more thankful for A/C than you've ever been before!

 

Also misread your original post as a 2003 with 4.7. The 2013 wasn’t available with the 4.7, so some clarity would help us all help you.

 

This is the truck:

5TFUM5F18DX046255

It was advertised as 4.7 but edmunds brings it up as 4.6:

 

Advertisement for truck:

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/d/lorton-2013-toyota-tundra-sr5/7823269002.html

 

Yes, I completely understand this. My first requirement has been a low level of rust on the truck underneath. This is why I targeted a 250 mile radius centering in northern NC, and looked at trucks in VA and Northern NC. This truck lived in MD most of its life, just under the major salted roads area. It has very little rust as you can see in the advertisement photo.

And I recently moved to a new house and have a garage and then bought all the tools and jacks I need to work on my own vehicles, of which I have many old ones. 2 old CRVs with high mileage between my wife and I, a 2005 Elantra with low miles, and a Mitsu i-MiEV that needs never needs anything but wipers and wiper fluid.

I'm currently working on a suspension overhaul of my 2006 CRV, replacing everything that moves, shocks, bushings, links, ball joints, tie rods.

And documenting it as I go on the CRV Owner's Forum and on my Youtube channel.
https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/suspension-overhaul-2002-2006-honda-crv.247413/#replies

I will be contributing the same type of thing here for the Tundra. I will be doing some kind of rust remediation and coating myself.

I really am enjoying working on my cars. I always wanted to be an auto mechanic, and went the college and computer route, which has been great money, but not as satisfying to me.

 

I will take you up on that. I have a friend who moved to AL and been wanting to visit her too in Henigar AL 35978.

 

Good to know! Thank you!

 

Makes sense, the 2013 would have the 4.6 UR series (smaller displacement version of the 5.7). No timing belt like the 4.7 had which is nice. Ad says it has a salvaged title from a minor accident with no airbags deployed. That seems strange to me. Truck should be worth $20k at least, so $14k would be the amount the repair estimate would take to total it. I would definitely shake that out and also make sure insurance won’t be an issue with the title status. Financing would also be affected, if paying cash then no concern there.

 

That's up in north Alabama, also very beautiful. Lots of hills, smaller mountains, water falls.

 

Welcome from NC

 

Thank you NC! I've been there many times lately looking at trucks and I just bought a bush hog from NC last week!

 

Right off the top of my head the bush hog dealers I know of are located in Durham, Knightdale and Fuquay Varina

 

I bought it from a guy who advertised it on craigslist

 

Welcome from Va. I have a 2012 4.6l and it was originally sold in Canada. Surprisingly when I bought it in 2018 it had only minor surface rust on the frame. It’s been solid running for me. At 125,000 miles. I just replaced the water pump, and now I’m getting the secondary injection codes. But truck still driving good. I plan to do the bypass kit when I save enough for it. Other than that the truck has been super reliable.

 

Welcome from New Hampshire!

 

Good to hear. I want to do the bypass too at some point. No issues with that yet but just want to do it anyway sometime.

 

Thank you New Hampshire!