35's no regear - Any regrets?

Going nuts over deciding tire size. Im running 285/75/17 (33.9 x 11.3 E rated 63 lbs) now, but believe the truck would look way better with 35 x 12.5 or 315/70/17's. Thinking about those skinny 35s as well- Toyo ATIII 35x 11.5.
Anybody regret getting 35s with no regear. Im pretty sure the 285/75's Im on have made 6th gear disappear but not sure how much the tire mass and revs of 35s will effect the gears. Love to hear your feedback. Or just talk me into 35's. Thanks.

 

35s are really 34.4 so not too much bigger. I have two sets of 315/70r17 (summer and winter) with no regear and pre supercharger it was all good at 83lbs total weight. I am not sure you would visually see a huge difference from what you have now though.

 

Honestly i felt zero difference between 275/70 and 35x12. Both had the same exact lack of power, same trouble holding gear on the highway.

 

Thanks. Good point. Hell yea SUPERCHARGED! I think Toyo has some 315/70/17s in D load but they are a couple pounds heavier than 35 x12.5 E load. What to do....

 

@Hbjeff Thanks that's what I want to hear.

 

don't do it. your steering components will thank you. 35s for looks, great idea

 

35s are nice looking though!

 

I’ve had 35s for most of my 2013s life. The only negatives have been the price and tire weight. I’ve been thinking about going down to 33s for the tire price.

 

you're not wrong! and they drive over anything. kinda makes up for the lack of locker on these giants.

 

For devils advocate I have an FJ cruiser and am intentionally keeping it stock with the original tire size in contrast to my Ship of Theseus Tundra with more aftermarket parts than Oem. There is something nice about a stock riding Toyota truck/suv, keeping it simple. Cost, maintenance, ride and keeping a relic alive. If the Tundra was my daily driver I would prefer it stock/close to stock (I miss my stock 4.6 2017 that got 18mpg easy).

 

Truck drives 100x better with 5.29s. 35s on the Tundra and no regear is painful.

An OTT tune can help but it’s still slow.

 

Anything bigger than stock loses 40hp to the rear wheel. Regearing fixes this.

if y’all saw your fuel trims and afr when a slight hill comes up with bigger than stock and no gears V stock tires….

 

Most ppl don't regear w/35s. I didn't and really wouldn't have had I not gone to 37s...the difference w/37s on and stock gearing is stupid obvious.

 

I had 34’s that clock in at 86.5lbs wheel/tire with stock 4.30’s. Got 12.5mpg empty and 7.5mpg towing and had no issues with running 6th gear at highway speeds. Put 5.29’s in and still get 12.5mpg empty but 9.5mpg towing and it holds 6th gear better at highway speeds but still downshifts on certain hills but I can now tow in s5 instead of s4. Got an OTT tune and still get 12.5mpg and now it doesn’t like to downshift at all when on the highway to an almost annoying extent.

Point being, do you have to regear? No. You’ll be fine. Is it better with lower gears? Absolutely. Gears don’t add horsepower or torque but they do give you a better mechanical advantage which reduces strain and engine load and it also helps the vehicle accelerate and make better use of the power available.

 

They can adjust your shift points in those tunes.

 

Yes I’m aware. I’m fine with it 99.9% of the time but there is a hill or two that it’s like just on the edge to downshift but it won’t but I think it should but it’s holding speed so should it? Won’t matter once the turbo goes on. Their tune will be replaced with the turbo tune although I have reached out to see if they’d be interested in partnering so I can keep the trans and throttle mapping. We’ll see. If not then I’ll have @snivilous help me dial it in.

 

"He's not the smartest but he does honest work"

 

What is causing this? Is it load vs wheel speed or is something else going on?

on your second point do the AFRs lean out?

 

Dyno's measure acceleration of the drum. The larger tires reduce the effective final drive ratio so the tires accelerate the drum slower so it shows as lower power. Lower gears correct that so it shows the power has gone back up.

I'd imagine the AFR's and fuel trims richen up due to a higher load from lack of gearing. I need to throw my 32" test tires on and do some measurement differences between those and the 34's with my 5.29's.

 

I’ve run many 35s (12.5, 11.5) and I really like 315/70s in the bfg flavor. The raptor spec is pretty light and c load range. They feel lighter than the load range e specs and have done well with towing as well. I run around in s5 most of the time but it can still hold 6th on the highway.

 

I can still use 6th often being supercharged, but I’m about to regear mine anyway. I’ve been testing driving in S5. It seems you might as well just drive in S5 with 35s on stock gears. The gas mileage isn’t any worse even being down a ratio to use in between, and the RPMs at highway speeds will be similar to stock in 6th gear as far as I can tell. The main thing that could possibly suffer is WOT performance.

 

I run 35x11.5x17 toyo atIII in C. I think they are around 60-63 lbs a tire and have affected me a little from stock TSS wheels n tires. Only when towing is when have issues finding 6th gear or searching gears.

 

the fact that you're asking means you already know the answer ---> Regear it! 5.29s

 

There is no downside to it at all. I'm actually going to drop to 33's and keep my 5.29's to bump the gearing up a touch better. I would drop to 32's but they don't look right on the truck.

 

Sounds like a reasonable explanation. Sure expect a lost when running larger tires and fatter AFR under load.

Reading a flat -40HP and watch your AFRs on hills sounds like a different set of concerns. I may be reading into the comment too much but the wording is consistent every time it is mentioned.

 

I went from cheap 33s that weighed more than my 35 12.5 17R Toyo open country at3. No regear or regrets lol. Looks awesome too.

 

With all due respect, this is a statement that a fella that hasn’t driven a tundra with 5.29’s would say.

Yeah, it’ll drive. But, it’s slower than stock. By a good bit. Science dictates this and it can’t be logically contested. Even a light 35” tire is considerably heavier than the original 32” car tires that came on it. Plus the leverage disadvantage…

 

I've been driving around on 35s and stock gearing for a few years and just swapped to 5.29 a couple weeks ago. It is a night and day difference. The truck feels like it is 1000lbs lighter. It shifts better, accelerates faster, and you can actually use 6th gear now. Worth every penny. Wish I had done it sooner.

 

Been thinking about doing a rear e locker and makes sense to do gears at the same time.

Long story short, big tires results in big money (supporting mods and issues). OEM results in boring but larger bank account.

 

Ain’t that the truth!?!

what is your use for your truck? I really thought I was gonna go with an e-locker when I regeared, as I’ve had too many wheelers with selectable lockers and love them. But, my Tundra use is so much different than those old wheelers. I’m on the street 99%, and never off-road more than some logging roads, dirt roads, and occasional sand or snow. I’d so rarely turn the locker on…. For my use, it made more sense to use a limited slip. Went with a Grip Pro and it makes a good difference all the time.