Bmf and JakeJakes sequoia axle shenanigans

So will the sequoia front diff fit in a Tundra housing? Just the t-case is different? If it doesn't fit, than this is gonna have to get put on hold for a minute. We can still grab the axle, maybe prep it.

So why not do just gears now? Does it take a whole nother rebuild to do lsds/lockers? How much is that, $1k or so, right?

 

A mag base & dial indicator, and a yellow grease pen is cheaper than having someone else install em.

 

Just my .02 cents. I found the Front to be MUCH more time consuming ( unfamiliar w reverse clambshell) , i went w pull it yard seq front end and I believe Yukon or ECGS 4.30 r&p with air locker in rear. Rear took me 6-7 hours. Front -12-+14 hours to get everything , why they did not add a lip for oil seals is beyond me, i messed that up twice.

As others have said, I would atleast lock the rear ( prob would skip lsd unless mainly road truck) , just the gears and a true lockable rear greatly enhances these trucks ability to get through stuff. Exspecially bc these old trucks dont flex and like to lift wheels. I personally love my ARB and it is super fun in mud and snow in 2wd ( if you like to slide around) . I went 4.30 as im not going over a 33" tire. Just dont re-gear with-out ditching open diffs ( preferably start w rear) , our IFS is kinda weak (in stock form) for locker in front.

 

Yes. You just need bearing/seal set, back-lash tool , magbase. You are just transferring ring gears. If going air, take time bending copper air-line and be very clean when doing seals and it should never leak air. I used new ring gear bolts , the rear is pretty simple. I found front to be a nightmare. I think i set my backlash at 15. ?? A lil out of spec but my toyota buddy told me to and so far you would not no its even in there. I think it was 15.

Anyway, like many i did it twice and had ptsd for 2 weeks

 

This is what I been trying to tell you since friday... Try $2-3k to install front and rear diffs, plus cost of new gears

 

Not to be too big of a negative Nellie, but the brakes on my Sequoia aren't any better than the tundra. I'm sure some of that is the weight of the Sequoia, but the brakes on the tundra are really good (01 Sequoia and 01 Tundra). Also, the parking brake job on the sequoia is awful because there's only tiny little holes to access the springs.

The rear seals leaking so often makes me wonder if it's something with the bearings not being exactly correct. I paid a shop $100 per side in labor, I provided all of the parts and pulled the axles. Or you can grab a lower mileage junkyard axle and new seals.

Personally, I'd skip the cost of the sequoia axle and spend the money on a locker.

 

So the T3 being 2wd and the fact I provided all the parts, was $1287 to regear and swap LSDs. Plus the price of the 4.10's, bearing kit, and LSD.

The 4x4 was $4264 for the re-regear. I didn't provide shit but the truck and the busted diffs on it. Thank god the e-locker was unharmed.

I don't remember how much the first regear on the 4x4 was. I want to say $3k-ish, because I provided everything.

Which re.inds me, I need to drain and fill the T3 diff sooner than later. Just to check it since it's probably been close to 1k miles on the used gears.

 

@bmf4069 the starfish are gonna hide those rear discs.

https://youtu.be/Brf6rxy70k8?si=OvYPbJmpgcxTBp_r

ya’ll try to get 2nd gen diffs to fit.

 

I have a complete tundra axle for the man, but he's a drum hater.

My truck has great brakes, and I haven't changed pads or shoes since I've owned it.

 

Holy moly. I'm less in for mine F/R including parts, e-locker and REM. Glad I provided my own diff cores.

 

Yeah it hurt.

 

Yeah, I forgot yours included removing and reinstalling the diffs.

 

So it sounds like pulling mine and sending them to ECGS is a pretty good deal. That would be $1650+shipping to just regear. If the sequoia diff fits, it'll just be the cost of the axle, diff, and Jake's labor to get this done, then I can just lock it at a later date.

Fuck. Those. Drums. 1905 called. They want their brake technology back.

@BluegrapeVr6 at this point, I'm not sure what's wrong with the seals. Me and five did them EXACTLY like timmy said to do. This isn't for the rear brakes being better necessarily, just to delete the drums in general and get rid off the tundra axle seals. Oh, and to do something new and "groundbreaking".

 

What's the rush to do the work of pulling and reinstalling front and rear each twice and paying a pro to do the guts twice? I just don't understand why you'd want to throw away your time and money the second time, when you could wait and do it all at once. But I'm starting to feel like broken record. So I'm going to STFU

 

Wait y'alls axel seals still leaking?

 

All this gearing and axle talk makes me wanna regear my truck so bad. 3.91 is way too tall.

$250 front diff and $360 rear carrier, what could go wrong??
https://www.ebay.com/itm/146335410002

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387843131775

 

Yup. Took about a year.

No no, you're good. I'm just throwing shit out there to get a better understanding. If it's not intake manifolds or subs I'm lost.

 

Oops, tagged the wrong homie. Meant to tag @rock climber for the axle seals.

 

you're buying from eBay. So there's that......

 

Yeah, there's no way I'd trust some ebay diffs. Not long term. But for $600, it really gets me thinking.

 

I mean, it's a gamble. That's really it. It could be 100% legit and a steal. But who fucking knows.

 

https://youtube.com/@precisiontransmission?si=4KAVMgirdR-bAwEY

Get this dude to do a a340 & aw4 rebuild sxs.

warning: this dude will make you feel like you are capable of rebuilding your own transmission, and it’s complicated. Some folks cant.

they may build diffs, dunno.

@bmf they might be able to tweak shiftpoints or stall to make the 3.90’s better.

 

Sometimes in order to be innovative, new, and ground breaking, costs a lot of money, lots of bloody knuckles, hard work, and sometimes you find the Juice aint worth the squeeze.
The 14WA calipers with good rotors and pads, and a properly set up set of drums will ABSOLUTELY stop the hell out of these trucks. Like no joke throw you into the steering wheel in comparison to whatever you are running now.
Sure i understand the seals leaking and you've busted it down multiple times, i would venture to say you gotta axle problem more than you gotta seal problem. I would replace the axle, put on new cylinders, shoes, linkage, adjuster, and rock out. The drums will absolutely work especially when set up right, the 14wa front brakes are a massive change up front too. There is a whole crap ton of work to get that Sequoia axle to work, as you all have talked about in this thread, everythin from the master cylinder, reservoir, LSPV, and all the fab work to get the Sequoia axle going, is going to put you at 5x the labor as swapping in another good working axle and rebuilding the rear brakes on it.
Just my measly $0.02

 

100%

I ran these 285/75r17's with both the stock brakes and the 14wa's. 06 DC has the "larger" calipers too. They would NOT stop these worth a shit. I would have to be conscious about speed/braking distance.

the 14wa's I run now are fucking choice. They allow the ABS to work normal and I have a lloootttt more confidence now on my trucks ability to stop

 

Can you rock 16” wheels with 14a’s though?

 

Back in the late 90's and even the early 2000's, labor for a r&p swap was right at $200 and end here in the PacNW. I'd just bring in my axle housing (or 3rd member) to the shop and the new gears and bearing kits.

 

4.10's are nice with stock tire size.

 

Exactly my thoughts.