Do you change your own oil in your Tundra?

Be aware, if you go fumoto and visit dealer, they will likely treat same as drain plug and remove. Time is money, fumoto drains slower the removing drain plug.

 

I ordered

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N cuz I like longer nipples.......

 

perfect thanks...

Last question. You obviously want the valve install with the drain portion pointing down...when installing it, do you remember how much you had to tighten it to have plug facing down? Thanks again

 

I'd like a copy of it please.

 

The drain nipple is inline with the threads, it will always be "down."
Their is enough room around the drain pan so that wherever the valve lever ends up once tightened, you can still get at it easily.

I used German torque spec: Gutentight.
Do not exceed to "Gorilla Tight."

 

Shoot me a message with an email addy.

 

Done!

 

I use the Stahlbus brand, works super great!

 

Just ordered the

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N

You guys stated you ordered a case of filters. Is there a particular site that has good deals on Toyota OEM oil filters? Also, can someone pls provide the 2024 tundra oil filter OEM Model #? I really appreciatey your help, thanks again.

 

I'm getting there. I'm considering just paying someone to change the oil. Gives me free time to do other things and I don't have to deal with getting rid of the waste oil.

 

I found the OEM oil filter for the 2024 Tundra to be 90915-10010. Is this correct? Thanks

 

Yes.

 

I had the fumoto in but swapped it out when I realized the dealer would probally take it out/ might raise issue- there was still a ton of oil in the pan after the valve came out- so I am not sure if I will keep using it after my last free oil change. Big catch pan does the trick hopefully.

Pretty easy ride to do the oil change on- do oil and rotate at the same time- Jack up the drivers side (if i remember correctly) to hurry the drain and after its drained rotate tires- let it down- fill the oil then go to the other side for a rotate.

managing the nearly 8quts of waste oil gets a little tricky but isnt horrendous at all. Have to get your 'system'.

I am using the wrong filter (the YZZ one) but think it is just slightly diffrent- look the same to the 10010s.

 

Yes.
And what they said.

 

Just tell the dealership or oil change place, if you still take it there after a valve, that it’s a valve. I haven’t had an issue when the dealership gave me a free oil change

 

Here's an important question on 3rd party drain plugs?

When screwing in the Fumoto or similar, do the threads, once properly seated into the d-pan, go above the bottom of the drain pan? If so, then whatever the distance the threads exceed the bottom of the drain pan, that distance is the amt of oil that cannot drain from the pan. Should this be a concern?

when draining oil from any combustion-based engine, i typically let the oil drain from oil pan and filter for an hr or so while doing something else. If a 3rd party drain plug impedes this process, the question is by how much and is it significant?

Thank you.

 

Post #43 eluded to a "ton of oil" still in the pan when he removed his Fumoto valve.

That's been my hesitation about using the Fumoto valve. I want as much old oil to drain as possible. That clearly doesn't happen with the Fumoto valve. And I've never found it too difficult, or messy, to remove and re-install the factory drain plug.

 

There is a nut welded to the bottom of the oil pan inside…

 

I’d like a volumetric measurement on “a ton”. Whatever is left is completely insignificant as evidenced by oil reports.

 

Well, then that nut depth determines the amt of oil left inside pan if top of fumoto threads do not exceed the nut height, correct?

 

Exactly.

 

For the garden hose, I like it closer to 3' so that it can drain into the same catch basin I'm using for the oil. All depends how you do it.
I think the filter adapter on socket makes it easier, particularly if the last person made it too tight.
I go OEM filter and Oil. On out of warranty Toyotas I go Mobile 1.
O-rings every time and I buy a few extra because they like to get lost on their own.
Yes, within ~30 seconds of off either from engine on or just acc, use the wiper. If just on in acc, you will hear it go down.
Additional tip if you have the OEM skid plate, get it back on tight enough else it will loosen up and you will hear a lot of strange popping noises. 21 ft-lb is what I've found and use. Dealer didn't tighten all the way and even left the front ones hand tight and it make tons of noise.

I've not done the Fumoto since I still have a few free services left and I'm sure my local dealer will complain. They said they wanted to charge me $300 to remove Cat shields for to get skid plate off. I asked if they needed to remove the tonneau cover to since that also has no impact on removing the OEM skid plate. Low level techs at dealer really don't care and are likely new.

 

What I like about the Fumoto is that I can get that oil blazing hot and its easy to drain without spilling a drop on me or the ground.
Dont really care if a few drops of old oil is mixed with the new. Everything is in suspension.

 

I’m honestly not a fan of those valves. Granted I ran one for 7+ years on an 02 Tacoma. To me it was a waste of time. I still had to remove the skid plate for the oil filter. Torquing the drain plug to 30 ftlbs was never an issue.

 

I just picked up the supplies to change my oil today.

OEM oil filter - $9.04
(2) OEM air filters - $59.90
(2) 5-qt jugs Mobile 1 EP - $59.34
Sales tax - $8.73

Total - $137.01

Granted I bought a little more oil than necessary, but...damn...things have gotten expensive.

 

Minus the air filters. It’s not bad at all.

 

Agreed. In reality it's a trivial amount, when you consider it's for a $70K truck. But I'm an old tightwad by nature. I remember when oil change supplies cost around $15.

 

I currently have 25,000 miles on my truck, so I plan to do my own oil change in another 1,000 miles. My dealership is 45 miles away, and their oil change costs $140, which means a 2-hour round trip and the expense. I can do it myself in just 30 minutes (I have a lift), and the oil and filter only cost me $87.

 

90 miles, 2 hrs & $140

vs

0 miles, 30 min's & $87

looks like a no brainer to me, but you could always get Krusty's cleaning lady to come over and watch !

 

Rock Auto has great prices and selection for filters.https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6+turbocharged,3451310,engine,oil+filter,5340