Do you change your own oil in your Tundra?

Hello to all,

I owned a 2014 (bought new in 2015) F150'XLT before i bought my 2024 TRD Tundra in June of 2024. I changed my oil every time except for one time. Changed it every 5K using Q-State 5W-30 6qts;used a motorcraft oil filter. The Q/State has the 2nd lowest Noack rating, second only to Pennzoil's premium oil. Both QS & Pennzoil are made at the same refinery.

Based on the enclosed video on how to change the oil on a 2024 Tundra, is there anything specific one needs to know? Based on the video below, here are some questions:

-how long should the 5/8" hose be that attaches to the male adapter on the oil filter housing base?
-do you really need can adapter and torque like wrench to remove the oil filter? Is this because of location or forgive needed on filter?
-Do you guys have a preferred oil you think is the best value meeting all manufacturer specs?
-When reinstalling the 14mm oil drain plug, do you replace the plugs o-ring each time?
-Do you actually need to engage the window wiper handle to "move" the spoiler?
-Finally, are there any add'l tips or things you do to make the oil change go more smoothly.

Since I have a ranch and farm machinery, I have the resources to change my cars motor oil. I also prefer doing it bc i know it will be done correctly & use one of the better synthetic oils. Since i can do a host of other things while changing the oil, I let both the crankcase & filter housing drain for an hr or so, thus removing as much of the old oil as possible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4a3SKCVD6Ek

Thank you very much,
tstex

 

It’s pretty easy. You have to lower the air dam and remove the skid plate if you have one. A garden hose fits the drain for the oil filter.

I purchased the prepaid maintenance up to 85K miles. I’m not waiting 10K to have it done. So I do it at 5K. One by me and the other by the dealer.

 

thanks

I have ramps and drive her on up. Can you easily access the oil filter from below? The F150 too had a less robust skid plate w four twist-ties abd was easily removable.

what specific type of oil did you use ? I'm assuming you and dealer use same oil, correct?
Thanks again

 

-how long should the 5/8" hose be that attaches to the male adapter on the oil filter housing base?
Really depends on what you're draining into, I'd say a foot.

-do you really need can adapter and torque like wrench to remove the oil filter?
You don't but it makes it much easier if the Hulk was the last one to spin it on.

-Is this because of location or forgive needed on filter?
I's tight but if you have small hands and a good grip you should be ok.

-Do you guys have a preferred oil you think is the best value meeting all manufacturer specs?
Mobil 1 because that's what I've always used.

-When reinstalling the 14mm oil drain plug, do you replace the plugs o-ring each time?
Yes

-Do you actually need to engage the window wiper handle to "move" the spoiler?
I do it.

-Finally, are there any add'l tips or things you do to make the oil change go more smoothly.
Drink beer.

 

Thank you rock

 

Length depends on how you get under the truck. If you do it on the ground, then a foot will do.
I didnt see a torque wrench in the vid...its simply a long ratchet. Use a strap wrench, oil filter tool...you wont be able to remove by hand.
Yes, replace the crush washer...or better yet, get a FUMOTO valve
Yes, air damn needs to go into service mode

Use any oil you want that meets specs

 

It's simple & easy using points mentioned above. Good job for doing it yourself, I won't even trust a dealer grease monkey to do the free ones.

 

As much as I distrust the dealer for maintenance, they will do the 10K mile changes as I'm confident if something burps it's best done in their shop. And yea, I'll be checking what they touched.

 

I am at the age I dont give a F'k. Dealer changes it or it doesn't get changed. Same as I always fly in the seats in the front of the plane...some bimbo cleans my house...dude mows my lawn. I killed my self in my work years to accumulate a life....time to enjoy it. ( you should see the cleaning lady lol)

 

Fumoto drain valve is worth every penny

 

Pics! We need pics!

 

Do you have specs on the model you're using? Does Toyota service have a fit if they see a 3rd party part on their baby.

i did 24 oil changes on my F150 and not a hiccup, ever, but i get your point.

And Krusty, I've too wked hard & still doing so. If i can wk on my truck for easy maintenance items, I'll do it as long as i can do so to perfection. When not or physically unable, I'll outsource.

 

I drive my front end onto a 2x4 for extra room. Drop air dam and remove cover and then put it back up and change oil. Been Using Amsoil Signature 0w-20 starting at 1k miles, then at 5k, and every 5k there after. I always save a sample mid stream into a 100ml lab bottle, label it with date and mileage and save it. Every 10k I send a separate sample to Blackstone.

I always cut open filter and examine the innards and take photos and save them. Always used a new crush washer, but yesterday I installed. Valvomax into the pan. I use Toyota filters, I have a box of twelve on the shelf.

I have the whole maintenance schedule in an excel spreadsheet I made that is pretty sweet and clean, if anyone wants it.

 

@Azblue will be the judge.

 

You can document all you want, when questions are asked, the burden of proof will be you. I'm choosing to let toyota own it all. Years ago, no way I would let them touch it. Life experiences, I choose not to be that fight anymore.

 

Ages ago, I was a mechanic, before I worked at Toyota factory. I'm retired now (early) and enjoy doing maintenance on all my vehicles, mowers, tractors, Harley, etc. I actually have alot to keep up with & enjoy it. The amount of $$$$$ I've saved over the years is bigtime. I'll keep it up as long as I can.

 

This is the oil filter wrench you need if you don’t have one this size-
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...m-oil-filter-wrench-3-8-inch-drive/lis0/61540

 

What event(s) changed your mind? Thanks

 

I hear you, but as long as I can crawl under the truck and then get back up, I am doing maintenance to my own rig. I refuse to let Toyota own me since I am the one making payments.

 

I let the dealership do the 2 free oil changes, but those will be the last. On the second one, they claimed to have rotated my tires, they didn't. And the tech monkey left the oil filler cap off. That's not the first time crap like that has happened at dealerships, in my experiences.

From now on, my trusted local mechanic can do the maintenance, or I will do it myself.

 

Either the dealer uses bulk oil or the Toyota brand. Toyota brand is made by mobil one. When I do it I use Mobil One EP.

 

Fumoto valve for the win

 

There isn't much I could add here that hasn't been mentioned already, so I will reinforce some existing points.

Absolutely, oil and filter DIY. I won't roll the dice on cross-threaded bolts, leaking drain plugs, missing oil caps or even just greasy fingerprints on paint and interior. WAY too many horror stories.
For me it's a huge waste of time going to the dealer. I can do oil and filter myself in 30 minutes and do a better job.
If you do it yourself, keep a maintenance log for the truck and oil and filter receipts.

Fumoto valve: get one and never have to worry about drain plug threads or crush washers ever again. (Or hot oil running down your arm.) I have the

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/fumoto-valve.129400/
People have good luck with the ValvoMax valve as well. Personal preference.

Lubrication of choice is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20. 5K mile OCI.
I bought a case of Toyota filters.

 

How much room is there between the skid plate and the Fumoto valve? Are there any clearance issues? thanks

 

Plenty and none. I have the OEM TRD skid plate.

 

My plan too, this truck is really pretty easy to change the oil and filter on without a mess.

 

Black, thanks for your help.

The link you provided goes to another thread and it gives dff versions of the Fumoto valve. THe

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N, I believe, states 12mm threads, while the video states using a 14mm socket for oil plug removal. Do you have a specific model# or Amazon ID order link? thanks again

 

Just go to Fumoto web site and order one for your truck. It was cheaper that Amazon when I got mine. You pick your make, model and year so you get the right one.

 

The F133N is the model# and the one I have. Both model#'s listed in that thread will work, however the other one is bulkier, and has an o-ring seal for the rotational feature that I didn't care for.

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0887M5LNG