General Supercharger Thread

MAF code could explain the stall...was going to suggest checking that plug/wiring but looks like it's too late. Sucks it has to go back again.

 

I pulled both plugs/verified all was well.

Sad

Here is what it was doing at first.

https://vimeo.com/1050330807?share=copy

 

Somehow I was blessed with a crack on the coast side of the gear. Right between 50-60 decel sounds like a train falling apart.

 

I've driven with 101 and 102 MAF codes. Hopefully its not too difficult. You also have the turbokits MAF so if they try swapping it'll be off.

 

Yup, I was just about to ask TK about getting another...

 

When I spoke with Jesse he said he had not seen issues with the @TurboKits MAF. It was mostly people couldn't get the fuel trims set. Send him an email. He's very helpful and may have some insight...my issue was misfires that are now resolved.

 

I sent a PM here, thanks.

 

I ordered another one, hopefully they can get it out quickly

 

This is after Magnusson 2650 install and running YotaWerx tune so definitely not OEM throttle mapping or settings.

I think it will get better when I budget to regear to 5:29's. There is a definite difference with the supercharger but not the massive difference I had anticipated.

Im still pretty happy with the new power, but not jaw dropping.

 

Nothing a few pulley sizes won’t change

 

what size wheel/tire setup?
on stock setup i felt a big difference, even more after a smaller pulley and OTT tune.
maybe yotaworks did a mild tune

 

I felt stock kit to be underwhelming also. Granted I'm high elevation.

 

285/75/18 skinny 35's. I probably should have run a while on lackluster maggie tune to appreciate the new tune.

I'll see Yotawerx at a local event next month so maybe I'll have them verify everything looks good.

 

I had issues with two factory oiled filters but not all people using oiled filters have issues with MAFs shitting the bed. With stock motor limitations you aren't loosing much power with nonoiled and most of it is at WOT. If you are not happy with oiled swap it no problem.

 

Did you install the tires at the same time as the Maggie?

 

Mine was tuned but never had the throttle mapping adjusted. Did you try tow/haul as suggested? That would be the tell.

Even on that size tire it should move pretty well. The stock magnuson 2650 pulley is pretty close to when I had the 80mm pulley on my Harrop (81vs 80mm) and I had several sub 5 second dragy 0-60 pulls on that setup with 34” tires and stock gears. Can’t ask for much more than that out of a 6k+ lb truck IMO.

 

i thought mine felt fine at 7k ft. even better with tune and 75mm. when i drop enough in elevation its hard to keep the tire from breaking loose lol

 

odd, ive got 35x12.50x17s with a 7" lift

 

i just took the KN and de oiled it

 

I'm talking stock 86mm pulley, stock Maggie tune. Felt meh. 76mm pulley whole diffrent story. Then tune an downpipes feels like a fucking beast!

 

As long as users understand this offers less filtration than a nonoiled (depending on the brand). Really depends on your environment.

 

I wonder if it is underwhelming because of the -40HP drop keith/dirtydeeds talks about in a few posts for those running taller tires. The way he described it is sounds like wheel speed sensor related.

 

For those of you that have swapped power plants (or know enough about the process): aside from replacing the starter simply as a target of opportunity, what else do you think is a must? Truck has 60k and 6 years on it.

I'm good with the starter since it's jammed up and has been asked to try to turn the motor over a few times. I'll just keep the original as a spare. If the alternator is a beast to get to, I guess I can do it now as well but was hoping not to since it's a bit pricey. I can't really think of anything else but figured I'd inquire. Plugs, t-stat, pcv and fluids will all be new since they're easy maintenance items that make sense. I think aside from the starter, though, the rest is easy enough to do in the truck

 

I would also do new Water pump, Timing chain, tensioners and guides

 

The motor I got has 70k on it, from an '18. I did the starter, alternator (I have a new Toyota Denso 150amp if you need it, mine needed 180) all 4 knock sensors, pulleys, fan has it's own assembly with a bearing, waterpump oil pressure sensor, and a slew of other things I'd need to look up to remember.

 

Good call! I should have stated that's all part of the long block. New OEM timing set and water pump are included. I was just talking about the peripherals (accessories?).

 

Damn it. The sensors were not things I thought about. The fan clutch was on the list as a maybe, but it's probably easiest just to do it now. Pulleys make sense. Looks like the parts bin is going to need a bigger shelf in the garage.

 

Yup, the it's easily done/while I'm in there because I'd hate to go back in list ballooned precipitously.

Also, I finally had my solid motor mounts, sitting in the garage for 2 years installed.

I also forgot the almost 900.00 torque converter, but I have 143k on my truck.

 

I bought the truck couple years ago with 285/70/18 and replaced worn tires with 285/75/18's a few months ago so I started with larger tires and went a little larger months ago.

Admittedly, I'm saying I probably not overly impressed because of raised expectations of reading posts and watching videos and my own assumptions. Also agree 6K truck is something to consider. I also have spent many years in fast cars and motorcycles so my baseline is already skewed.

Regardless, I'm pretty happy and have no intentions of chasing the dragon on this vehicle. Been down that cave way too many times.

I think gearing and LSD will get me pretty happy when I get to that point.

 

Just getting rid of the torque limiter is a good improvement. If you got a friend who has hpt, it'll only cost you a few credits to do some minor tuning...