Bmf and JakeJakes sequoia axle shenanigans

After conversing with @JakeJake this morning, the time has come for the sequoia axle swap in Ironman. Fuck those rear brakes and fuck those rear axles seals. We're headed to the PaP next Saturday to grab the axle and booster/MC from a sequoia. While doing this I'm sending my diffs of to be re-geared. I'd like lockers, but it's just to pricey at this point.

So what other parts are gonna be needed on this? I'm trying to head off any problems at the pass before starting. I know the brake lines are gonna be different, but is there anything else?

Tagging @des2mtn for the rear brake advice. I forgot who else has rear disks.

 

Can you at least find a Seqouia axle with LSD?

 

You’re gonna need spring perches, or back half iron man to get some 4 link goodness.

check the pinion flange. Also, not quite sure what the 3-channel vs 4-channel abs is going to need.

this is exciting. Got a date planned? Get a plastic intake manifold and big ball lca’s & knuckles while youre at it.

 

Found the perfect donor…..

 

I'll strip and plate the frame, new shock tower crossmember/ relocation, Shave the Sequoia axle, U-bolt eliminator, etc like I did on my truck. Leaf spring mounts, and leafs will remain standard tundra stuff. That part is all well known territory for me and "easy"

Working brakes seems as easy as going to the larger bore sequoia master, a Wilwood adjustable prop valve, and some plumbing. I'll have to dig more into the ABS side of things


@bmf4069 Whats the added cost of lockers? Welded rear?

 

https://www.boyceequipment.com/rock...iu8NgBKbGfh1Wpef_pr6NA5zWduE8Cs5740xYBtnJObuy

6.72’s & 4lo would be fun.

also, arent the back half of sequoia frames boxed?

 

Ohhhhh, I like that!

 

Dual lockers:





Or, full LSD:





Open diffs:

[

 

Aww sheeit

 

Man just wait til the money is there to regear and lock the rear. It's worth it to buy once and cry once on this.

 

I can do a locker in the rear, but I want, no, NEED both locked!

 

We can pull the fuse on the ABS for now. Not like mine works anyways. Do I need to buy the u-bolt eliminator and brake prop valve?

 

e locker up front, lsd out back. Dont wanna have to turn on your locker for wet grass. Or whatever the equivelent is. Locker diffs are open until theyre not.

 

Prop valve yes-

$49 Wilwood Engineering 260-12627 Adjacent Proportioning Valve Knob Style (M10 x 1.0 BF inlet)

https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-Engineering-260-12627-Adjacent-Proportioning/dp/B011B4UX5U

The u bolt eliminator is 100% fabbed in house, but we do need to talk about what my labor costs will be I've got a "homie hook up" price in mind for the week of my time. Call/text me about that.

 

Then wait til the money is right and do it all at once. No use in paying install twice and buying new bearings and stuff twice.

 

I'm telling you as a friend and someone who had had to pay for a total of five re-gears, one LSD and one locker.
It hurts the wallet really good.
Also don't let some off-road Toyota shop do it. Make sure an actual diff shop does it

 

Dude, just get the Seqouia front diff, it's Torsen, you can have all-time 4WD!

 

I thought the torsen was in the tcase?

 

see signature.

 

Maybe I'm wrong. But why would they call it a "Torsen diff" if it was in the transfer case? I can't imagine all this is in the transfer case? Although I think this video is invalid claiming it technically "locks"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEiSTzK-A2A​

 

Our stock t-case is basically a spool, replace that spool with an open diff, or torsen, or locker, and get ‘triple locked’.



the rear driveshaft is direct, the torsen operates the chain.

 

This sounds hot, if only I had a third, uh, member. Yeah, third member applies, right?

 

Whats the first member?

 

I bet Daniel Mouse knows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnoK5hpkzQQ​

 

I can't echo this enough. On my T100, I'm on my 4th rear regear. First a LSD, then 4.10>4.56 LSD, then 4.56 Elocker, now 4.88 Elocker. With the 4.56's I was at least able to find factory front diff's in 4.56, as the T100 uses the same front diff as the '86-95 pickups and 4Runners. But regardless, like others have said, buy once and cry once. Wait until you can do everything you want to. Save your back, and your wallet by only pulling the diffs once and paying for them once.

This is correct. They have a center torsen diff. Thats why the Sequoias have the 2hi-4free-4hilock-4low transfer cases.

 

An awd t-case would be cool, but i doubt its worth the effort. With lsd theres not much i cant do in 2hi. 2lo would be cool as a penguins pecker though.

 

The sequoia also has a high clearance rear sway bar. I know that some over landing guys completely delete the front sway bar and install just a rear.

I’ve had lots and lots of various lockers, LSDs, and gear swaps in my various vehicles over the years. If you can afford it, i’d go with a full selectable both front and rear (either ARB or an E locker). And no one ever complained about going “too deep” when choosing a particular r&p gear ratio.

 

this right here!! I shaved down a pair of Currie 9” axle housings that i used to have in my jeep cj7. I think i gained about 3/4”…which is like stepping up to a tire that’s 1.5” taller. If my tundra was more offroady, i’d do this in a heartbeat to my axle. Heck, maybe sometime in the future when i have the 3rd member removed, i might get motivated to do this.

 

Oh, I'm just sending my diffs to ECGS and having them re-gear and send me back a built diff.

 

well shaved as in down to bare tubes without any unnecessary bracketry, although a "real"l 3rd member shave is certainly possible.