Travel Trailer Tow Question?

Hi Guys,

Been looking at Travel Trailers wanna do some camping go places with the wife and fam, she loves to hike be outdoors and since the kids are young 7/5 wanna take advantage if possible before they grow out of it. I have a side business doing landscaping and already Tow a utility trailer.

Question is at what point should I start worrying about needing a Electric Brake Controller?

I have a '08 Crew Cab SR5 5.7L when I'm at the dump scale highest I've gone is 7250lbs that's me and full tank with a full trailer.

I've been eying this Travel Trailer by Jayco:
https://www.jayco.com/rvs/travel-trailers/2025-jay-feather-micro/171bh/

I know it wont last forever but if i can get 5-10 years out of it is it worth it for memories/adventures don't see myself going cross country just within Arizona places up north weekend getaways / school breaks

Is this towable without needing a Brake controller or what brake controller is there you would recommend

 

Looks like that trailer lists electric brakes and likely will have a 7pin connection to the tow vehicle. Why spend $20k or more on the trailer and not spend $200 on a brake controller? If you have the tow package, your truck may be prewired for easy install of a controller, my 2014 was. Having trailer brakes will also reduce the wear and tear on your truck brakes. Having 5000lbs more behind you will push the truck and greatly increase stopping distance.

 

If you are committing to aftermarket, the Tekonsha P3 seems to be the most recommended, here and via Google.

 

Agreed, that is what I have had in 3 trucks over 20 years now, plus my dad has one in his F250 for almost 20 years as well. Solid unit, simple to set up, simp,e to pull the lever in an emergency situation.

 

You're looking at around 10k lbs combined, you'll want trailer brakes if you drive the 17 southbound from Flagstaff. The Techonsha mentioned above is a superior unit to anything in the $150-$250 range.

 

Yes, it is towable without out brake controller, but I wouldn't recommend it. The empty weight of that Jayco is 3700 lbs; the heaviest your dump trailer could weigh if your dump scale is accurate, then your utility trailer weighed about 1500 lbs at it's heaviest. My tandem axle Jayco is less than 5000 lbs dry and empty and absolutely want trailer brakes on it.

3000 lbs is typically the maximum cutoff for unbraked trailers, though many states are lower than that - around 2000 lbs or even 1000 lbs, IIRC. I've pulled single axle trailers in the 3500 lbs range without trailer brakes and don't recommend it. Your truck should stop it fine in the event that the trailer brakes malfunction for some reason, but fine is not good when it comes to brakes and stopping.

At 3700 lbs dry and 4995 lbs gross max trailer weight, that's quite an ask from your vehicle brakes. I usually add brakes to my single axle trailers as they are not required in my state when sold new according to unladen weights. I've found that the towing experience is much more enjoyable and less white-knuckle in a panic stop. The truck and trailer brake more evenly and smoothly.

Since the trailer already has electric brakes (they are required for the trailer manufacture in that weight range), why wouldn't you add an electric brake controller? There's a good chance that your 5.7 tundra came with the tow package (factory 4 pin and 7 pin harness, tow haul button on the dash or shifter, and a transmission cooler by the radiator are dead giveaways); if that's the case, you literally just need a wiring pigtail for a socket under the dash, four wire crimps (but_t connectors or the like), and a place to mount the controller. The rest of the truck is pre-wired for it. Super easy, super simple.

As noted already, the Tekonsha P3 is highly recommended. I've used one for over a decade in my tundra and have been 100% satisfied with it. You could get away with a $50 Reese unit if you really wanted, but why cheap out, IMO.

 

As others have said, just get the Tekonsha and be done with it. It's super easy to install and is well worth the little money it costs for added safety.

 

I'm looking at a trailer myself.....

https://forestriver.campingworld.co...rest-river-rear-bath-30k-2414311?forcegl=ppfl

 

Ooh, with a slide out. If we upgrade, I'm definitely looking for a slide out. Makes more room for when there are several adults and kids in the trailer at once. The weight is very reasonable as well, especially for a tip out.

 

My best advice would be to check out ATC trailers https://www.trailersoftheeastcoast....YMeHCvO9mgRJLyGWl4AeNLl-waAr2iEALw_wcB#pla700

They are solid very well built all Aluminum trailers and won't tax your truck with added weight with plenty of sleeping space.

 

ATC trailers are nice. They may not tax your truck as much, but they'll sure tax your wallet...

 

Tandem axle trailers are required to have brakes. You will be fined without them. Yes there are hydraulic setups on trailers, but you will find travel trailers will have electric. As mentioned before, you will not go wrong with the Teconsha P3. It's a great unit and easy to find with adapter kits to particular vehicles.

Do yourself a favor and watch many videos on pulling a trailer, for the do's and don'ts. It can save you a fortune, to be setup properly and safely as well as practices to follow.


Mike

 

If you do buy a trailer with a slide, choose carefully. Slides that use the Schwintek slide system or the Accu cable slide system should be avoided. Electric rack and pinion are the most reliable slide system along with Slimrack slide system.

 

Now I have to research....I have no idea what either of those systems are.

 

Id check for a mechanical bypass after having a motor failure on a slide. Something people always overlook. Had to crank one in with a pair of vise grips about 2 inches at a time once

 

Believe most states require trailer brakes for trailers over about 3-3500#. Don’t skimp on safety, get the brake controller.

 

I had a "come and get it now" situation, wasn't aware of the law, and pulled 6K w/o brakes a few hundred miles. It sucked and required very defensive/proactive driving with manual trans control in higher traffic areas. I now have a Redarc controller. Spend the few hundred.

 

Thank you everyone for replying I will look into a brake controller is there one that is OEM like the new '14+ Tundras have, or is it possible to have it installed in an '08..

I do have a Tow/haul and 7 pin connector below the bumper and yes i do plan to drive either the I-17 / Payson areas so I do want to be safe as much as possible..

 

The factory controller is not so great. I have a 16' and tow alot using a Tekonsha P3 They make their own retrofit cable to plug direct into the factory harness.

 

I agree with others about this controller.. I've had the same one in my last two Tundra's... Also have one in my 4 runner...

 

I'll Look into the Tekonsha P3 and get it installed before I purchase a Travel Trailer

 

You will be happy with it. It worked flawlessly in my Excursion pulling almost 11K

 

Once it's installed, I strongly recommend you practice reaching down and finding the brake lever without looking, practice it until it's instinctual muscle memory.

This saved my Bacon once when we got hit by a weird micro-burst of wind that wiggled me pretty violently.

I was pleasantly surprised that without even thinking my hand went down and grabbed trailer brake only and I instinctively gassed it.

Straightened us right out like pulling on the ends of a rope.

Then I went and changed my shorts.

 

$48K 3 years ago 2019 year 2816 model, looked at new and they were $78K to $120 in 2021

 

Schwintek slide systems are “OK” for small slides and if they are installed correctly. Unfortunately most are never installed correctly and can come out of time and then stuff breaks.
https://support.lci1.com/in-wall-slide-out

The Bal Accu slide system uses cables that require proper cable tension to work properly. When the cables come out of adjustment there are two adjustment blocks that come into contact with each other. The system is strong enough that it will tear the pulleys off the walls and damage the RV wall which results in a very expensive repair. The other issue is that the gearbox can leak oil onto the sides rubber roof membrane and it will damage the roof. If it happens when stored you won’t know until spring and the oil will have time to compromise the rubber roof.
https://balrvproducts.com/product/accu-slide/

 

We've had our trailer for 8 years, and I'm still amazed how much roomier it becomes when I hit the button to deploy the slide.

 

^^ What he said. I had the factory controller and it was crap and would jerk the truck no matter the setting. The Tekonsha is soooo smooth, I didn't know that's how it was supposed to feel (so to speak).

 

I put a red arc controller in my 2008, and love it.

 

Did you get the software update done on the stock controller? I also have a 2016 and no issues with the factory brake controller.

 

Not sure if it was ever done or not. I didn't start towing a camper until 2 years ago. After a year with the factory controller, I upgraded. I'm guessing I would've had to pay for the update given how long it's been and the Tekonsha didn't really break the bank.