Lower ball joints?

Help me out here folks, have a look at this. 2006 DC limited. Was chasing down a noise in the front passenger side which i think is my lower strut bushing creaking/squeeking. Figgured id check out my LBJ's while i was there. I had them replaced in 4/2021 by what i thought was a reputable shop, guess they didnt use OEM....I think im testing this right, but im pretty sure this is not how things should be….

passenger side: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/a__w2_HdvXA

driver side: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/d7pOHRvi58c

Am I testing this right?

Was gonna do new bilstein 4600 coil overs...should i add LBJ's to the list? What else?

 

Um yeah, don't drive that unless you hate it, and your life. But don't take my word for it.
Browse however many pages it takes HERE until you are good with it. Be safe!

 

I'll edit in my LBJ saga.

Here it is. The video in Post #8 is what I went by.

(1) Something a local mechanic said...."pressing out the ball joints." | Toyota Tundra Forum

I bought that puller kit but used a different puller than the one in the video (it's in the kit though) for the tie rod. The one in the video damaged the tie rod threads and I had to replace the tie rod.

If you do this do this differently from me:

1). Do inside a garage.
2). Do with power tools.

I did it outside, up on wooden blocks, lying on wet grass / mud in November, with hand tools.

 

Yup. Imminent failure. Unsafe. Fix before your next drive.

 

Any movement is unacceptable when using the crowbar method.

 

I spoke with a local guy. 1st Generation Tundra, he was missing the front outer fender! Driving it that way.

I asked him "what happened?" He replied: "sitting in a parking lot, wheel just folded out, took fender with it."

So it's not an internet myth!

OP: you can fix this, it's not "hard" per se and if I can do it lying in the mud with a breaker bar and cheater bar pipe, you can too. If I was close to you I'd come over and we'd do it together. People on here will give advice.

 

Yeah. Those LBJs are fooked. If you value you truck, and more importantly your life, fix before driving another mile.

 

This is def something you can do yourself. Parts are around $300. Autozone etc will lend you the separators for free. You'll need a torque wrench too, but it doesn't need to be a Snap-On. These are not going into space or anything. A torque wrench is something anyone touching bolts should have anyway.

 

Replace ASAP. Don't keep driving. I lost my driver's side Ball joint in the parking lot at Mandalay Bay on level 2 and couldn't get a tow truck for 9 hours because everything now is a flat bed tow. This was in the middle of the summer. It was a mess and needed a $1000 fender repair. I am having mine done again since it was replaced by cheap Chinese parts. Go with OEM Parts from Toyota. Be safe! Not Sorry...

 

Sometimes other people’s lives too

 

LBJ's ordered from local Toyota dealership to hopefully P/U monday....Never done the job b4, but videos look like its pretty simple...got all the tools.

 

Make sure to pick up replacement bolts too (8x). They are not that expensive. I have a 2006 DC as well and the part number for me was 90105-12316. If the LBJ doesn't come with a castle nut and cotter pin (mine did), I'd replace those too.

Take your time and it's pretty easy. Hardest part (for me) was separating the ball joint from the LCA. Some people do the 'smack it with a hammer' approach. Better to rent a splitter from autozone. Also use the proper tool to separate the tie rod end, otherwise you'll run a significant chance of damaging the boot on the tie rod end.

 

That SUCKS. How did they get it out of that low clearance parking garage? Of all the terrible places to have that happen.

 

Yep, got 8 flange bolts as well...Got front end service kit coming tomorrow too, so no smacking here! Im into this truck for the long run, so probabily not the last time ill be doing this.

 

I’ve changed mine 2x now. Essentially now I’ll do LBJs at the same time as the TB

 

Timing belt is next on the list....

 

damn that's the chillest way to have an LBJ failure, I'd be grateful.

Well actually I would change mine out before that, but still

 

So how do i know if my springs are shot or not....pretty sure struts are toast, cant fit my index finger between the lower control arm and the rubber bumper...but does this really tell me anything?

Given the age, should i just do full coilovers(4600's) or stick with the stock coils and have local shop reload to new struts? I think i read 4600 coilovers from suspension lifts have monroe coils? Are these ok?

 

If you order the 4600 set from suspensionlifts.com the coil springs are a Moog product. Moog 171347. They are probably going to be fine, as they claim these are a replacement that will maintain OE geometry. The 4600s are going to be a nice improvement over what you have on there now. Sounds like your springs are done as well, and I would expect them to be done at nearly 20 years old. You shouldn't be sitting that close to the bump stop on the LCA. Don't ignore your rear leaf springs, as they're probably done as well.

 

Holler at @memario1214 from hotshotoffroad

he'll get you set up with WAYYYY better products than SL. And, most often times, at the same (if not better) price

 

Checked out hotshotoffroad, but looks like they only do 07 and newer tundras..

Noticing now that SL's coilover 4600's can come either with a generic(black Moog 171347) spring, or for an extra $60 i can get Eibach silver 600lb rate springs.

What's the difference, and is it worth it?

 

I literally bought parts for my Tundra from Colton less than 3-4 months ago.

 

FYI if you don’t go with OEM bolts or you want to replace your bolts with something stronger ARP is a good way to go. I believe there is a sticky with part numbers. When I purchased my LBJ’s I bought arp bolts from summit.

 

ARP or AARP?

 

ARP. See the Spiker LBJ bolt test thread or the LBJ sticky.

 

Someone fell for it.

 

C'mon man, I'm old but I'm not THAT old.

 

My dad has done that to me all my life (asking obviously silly things to tempt a reply) and I've found, I do it too.

I do it to my wife, friends, clients, strangers I meet......everybody. LOL

Glad you took it in stride.

 

Hello guys I am in the middle of putting the driver side ball joint/spindle back together from replacing the control arm bushings. I go to tighten the lower ball joint and it’s spinning on me I can’t put any torque on it any ideas? They are OEM ball joints and OEM control arms that I got from a seller here. Seems like the ball join won’t seat correctly? Or the hole in the control arm is too big? I know I am doing something wrong here…