Can’t remove sail panel on drivers side

I can’t for the life of me remove my sail panel to fix my driver side mirror. I have tried pretty much everything. Event taking apart the whole door, which has nothing to do with it Because I can’t take the sale off I can’t take the panel off either.

I’ve used the plastic wedges and tried to pull, but it’s not fully coming out. Any ideas?

 

I could be wrong, but those don't look factory.

 

That’s a great point. I didn’t even think about that. I would assume they removed the same way but if they’re not OEM, they may be trash.

 

It's factory for all DC trucks. Hold on, I'll get you a pic of what it looks like behind it. Someone on here was just asking for parts to re-fasten theirs and @BubbaW helped out (for like the 5th time, apparently losing/breaking the fasteners is common).

 

Here you go: https://www.tundras.com/threads/tweeter-cover-retainer.153229/

 

Thank you for the link. I took off the passenger side with ease and I was able to examine it. There is just one little clip that’s holding it in. I can’t move it and I’ve tried to muscle it even if I break it and it’s not moving.

 

This is a “well no duh” comment but the driver side should come off with ease also. It’s not a BFH time but if it were mine, a stout screw driver/flat bar would be my choice….gently mind you. Suspect PO might have used adhesive to hold it in place if plastic fastner was bad ??

 

Don't they generally match the interior color scheme? Those look sort of like a piano black aftermarket accessory.

 

It varies. Many sail panels are just straight-up black to blend in with the door seals and mirror.

 

Agree....the sail panels shown in 1st post matches my 04 DC LTD

 

You are officially the winner they glued it and they put in a white non-OEM connector. Ended up getting it out, but after a lot of work. now it looks like the stock hole is oversized because of work they had done.

 

Now that I have the door panel off.
does anybody know which 10 mil bolts you need to tighten so the window stops rattling when it’s barely open?

 

Look inside the door. Find the vertical tracks the window slides up and down in. Locate where they're bolted. Confirm tight. If tight, you may find some luck in doing whatever you can to tighten them so they're putting more pressure to sandwich the window between the verticals.

But the reality is, over time, the rubber seals that go up those rails, and the seal that goes up around the window opening of the door (where the window seats as it fully closes) shrink/flatten over time so they don't provide the correct support for the glass, allowing it to rattle.

Sadly, those other seals are $$$$$ so not reasonable to replace.

 

Thank you. Also my woofers are blown. Ordered new speaker repair kit.

 

Weird... I didn't know that. I assumed they were in the doors.

 

Don’t bother repairing the factory speakers; just replace them all together.

 

Double Cabs. They're a different beast.

While that sounds like a great idea, if OP has the JBL system, those drivers are 2ohm. You can't just go to the store and buy any (typically) 4ohm drivers off the shelf and chuck it in there. It'll sound like shit.

 

Memphis audio has reasonably priced 2 ohm speakers that sounds really good. There are a few options out there

 

PowerBass has 2ohm options also. But they’re few and far between. I can’t tell if OP has the OEM JBL system or not, though.

 

I do @shifty` you have helped me on a previous thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/poor-audio-quality-kenwood-head-unit.152372/.

i’m thinking about going the powerbass option.
Going with these for the front https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE6C/PowerBass-OE-6C.html but it says ‘The factory woofer in this location only receives bass frequencies from its amplifier. Replacement speakers will only reproduce bass’ then it suggests the metra Metra 72-9301 Speaker Wiring Harness. Isn’t that for the rear speakers. Then it doesn’t show the https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE652T/PowerBass-OE652-TY.html as an option for the rear speakers. Very confusing. Maybe I’ll call Crutch tomorrow.

 

Rear speakers and front mids use same adapter. Tweeter/Y-fork use a different adapter. I vaguely recall writing that in a recent post at least. Give lots of audio advice for 1st gen so sometimes it muddies together. Not as sharp now as I was at half my age.

Gimme a bit to look into this. Was just taking a break from some work, and popped in.

 

Ok, so I had to take a look and this is what I had for part numbers, 2nd bullet on reply #81: https://www.tundras.com/threads/poor-audio-quality-kenwood-head-unit.152372/page-3#post-3803089

But here's the thing. If you're only replacing the mid to fix the dead speaker, given the cone's surround is fucked, and the speaker is a 2ohm replacement, I'd simply:

• Look closely at the terminal for a (+) and (-) and note which wire is going to which terminal - I think it'l be red to (+) and black to (-),
• Un-solder the leads from the terminals of the OEM JBL,
• Straighten out and solder-suck the wire clean so it's freshly tinned,
• Then simply crimp a terminal spade on to attach to your replacement speaker

Unless there's a reason you can't do that, of course. Like ... Something inside that plastic housing I can't see.

I wouldn't mess with Metra adapters if the OEM JBL speaker has two wires leading up to it. Don't cut anything, just un-solder. If you ever wanted/needed to reinstall the old speakers, no problem, pop off the spade you crimped on, and re-solder to the OEM terminals.

It's the least-invasive way you could go about only replacing the mid-woofers.

 

I ended up buying the powerbass OE-6C comes with the tweeters and crossover.

@shifty` would you still do eBay you suggested with the terminals and soldering with this setup?

 

I think you had a typo in that question.

I need to step out on a limb and make some assumptions here, because, again, I haven't touched a DC. To make these assumptions, I need to step back into your other thread. You may be able to help me here.

From that other thread, I see I wrote this: Crutchfield is showing Metra 72-9301 wiring adapter for rear door speakers and Metra 72-8104 for the lower front speaker(s).

I don't see that you purchasted the 8104 adapter for the front, and I see the kit you bought has a crossover, which will make this a not-plug-and-play experience.

I need to understand the wiring, and the EWD is sadly not helping me. Referencing this picture from the a JBL Double Cab passenger door, I need to see more of the wiring. Specifically:

1. I need to see if connector A has wires that run up to the tweeter (in direction of yellow arrow), and if so, how many?
2. I need to see the wiring inside that black baffle, i.e. what happens after connector B? Do the wires go to a crossover?
3. I'd love to see the impedance/ohm ratings printed on the back of each of the speakers in housing B.

What's hanging me up is, we have 3 speakers at play, but only 2 connectors, and the OEM JBL amp is supposed to be seeing a 2ohm load for these speakers. I've seen the magnet on our OEM JBL woofers, it clearly shows it's 2ohm. In which case, the only thing that makes sense to me here is:

• The mid-woofer is 2-ohm and direct wired to the amp using the stripey wires going to connector B to handle the lows
• The green/blue pair feeds connector A (in parallel), which forks the connection up to the sail panel tweeter on one pair of wires, then back down to 1½" speaker over pink/purple wires to connector B - in this case, both of these tweeter-style speakers would actually be 4ohm.

Can you get me pics/info for 1, 2, and 3 above?

​

 

I have #2 and #3 for you.
I’ll need to get #1 for you when I take the door panel off again.

yes eBay was a typo lol.

 

Here is the powerbass pdf from crutchfield https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20211122150500/Manuals/151/151OE6C.PDF
The crutchfield rep I was chatting with recommended that harness.

 

The JBL 86160-AF070 @Khunter0211 is showing above were indeed 2 ohm in my 04 DC LTD.



From the peanut gallery....it would be great if post # 14 onward of this were merged into @Khunter0211 's ongoing thread.... Poor audio quality kenwood head unit | Toyota Tundra Forum

JMPO...

 

Yes, it’s clear on the connector for the mid. You are going potentially going to want to tape any extra wire into the OEM housing baffle to avoid rattles. I like silver flashing tape to do the job, only if necessary though.

Ok, next, do you have a multimeter?

If you do, can you set it to ohms/resistance, and:

• Measure the resistance across the terminals of the smaller speaker?
• Measure the resistance across the terminals of the sail panel tweeter?
• For shits and giggles, although we know it’s 2ohm already from literature, confirm the mid-woofer is 2ohm across its terminals?

I can supply pics I’ve posted on here showing that process or give a YouTube video.

Those readings and the other pic of that connector (I’ll try to find another pic online later today also) will help understand how to proceed.

Unless @BubbaW, you’ve been thru this rodeo before, maybe you know, are they running a parallel circuit using the two smaller front door speakers, and the smaller speakers are 4ohm? If so, is the upper door connector (A) in my pic above where they’re bridging the two?

 

You might be saying what I did, not sure. This is my driver door with the Crutchfield 5000HZ blockers(007BB5000) for tweeters that came with the Hertz K 170 6-3/4" speakers. Crutchfield had spliced in the crossover at the HU end of their bypass harness and I chose to re-locate closer to tweeter end.

Have other pics if they will help....

 

I can’t find my multimeter.