Help with Coolant Flush

I’ve read quite a few of the threads and watched some videos about coolant flushes. I’m stuck on a question that I still can’t resolve due to my low level mechanic knowledge. If I’ve missed something I should have found searching, please scold me accordingly. I enjoy it slightly, sometimes.

I’m not new to FGT having owned one for 15 years now, but this one is new to me. Timing belt was just done but universal coolant was put in and I want that stuff out yesterday! Smh

I have a few questions, but in the back drop of the other questions is this question: If a shop uses an exchange machine, will they be introducing tap water to the system? Shop wants $250 to flush it and with the list of things I’m wanting to get through, I’m not opposed to paying it and focusing on other things. I would prefer to do it myself so I know what was done, but I’m also not fully comfortable doing the flush, and this is where my other questions lie.

I’m still not sure how to flush the heater core. A lot of instruction mentions having the heater full blast. I’m not clear on how that lines up with when the engine should be running and not running during the flush. I don’t want to use any of the hose methods or any other method that introduces tap water to the system.

I’ve done plenty of drain and fill coolant changes getting everything out except the heater core. That is the part that I don’t know about and it intimidates me due to my lack of knowledge and skill.

I saw some threads where 4x4 guys maybe had a hard time accessing the engine block drains. I see mine with no problem to get a wrench on them. Any issue cracking those open with the truck at 200k miles since I don’t know if it’s been done in the past? Block looks pretty clean down there

Some input on the flush/exchange from a shop vs DYI and then some coaching on flushing the heater core would be much appreciated. Thank you

 

My only advice is that if you do open up those brass fittings, make sure you have a full visual while doing so. I snapped the head off one of mine at only 5k miles when new. Maybe it was a defective fitting, IDK but I now only do radiator drains and try to dilute the existing fluid of old as much as possible.

 

I don’t be afraid to use the old hose to help flush the system out. I would chase it with a distilled flush after. Then Toyota pink or red depending on how often you like to change it.

 

Do it yourself for $40 . First buy 2 gallons of Xerex or Peak Asian Pink and 6 gallons of distilled water (usually cheapest in baby section of Walmart). Check your radiator and cap condition. If it's original and has a brownish discoloration replace it. Otherwise press on. Now warmup the truck with heater on max hot. Then shut off the engine and open the draincock on the driver side of the radiator catching the coolant in a bucket. Next loosen the clamp and remove lower radiator hose and catch the coolant in another bucket. If you don't live in a hard water area like AZ, replace hose and fill with tap water and run a couple minutes til thermostat opens and then stop engine and drain again. Do this three times or so to remove all the green crap by dilution. Now repeat 3 times with distilled water to rinse out any tap water remaining. Now open the block drains and drain any remaining water from block. If nothing comes out, stick a stiff wire like safety wire into the drain to loosen any sediment and it sould drain out. After this empty and clean the overflow tank and button everything back together. Now fill with Asian Coolant and leave the radiator cap off. Turn on the engine and run until thermostat opens (flow seen inside radiator where cap is) to allow any air to purge and slowly fill to top. Some say to have truck on incline with front slightly higher but I've not needed to do that. Squeezing upper rad hose also helps purge any air from system. Top off radiator and fill overflow reservoir to fill line. Close radiator cap and drive around the block a couple of times. Shut off engine and once COOLED down check that radiator and overfill are still full. If not top off with coolant. Easy.

 

Thank you each for your input

 

I’m leaning towards paying the shop to exchange the coolant. I’ve been buried in other work and personal stuff and may not get to it as fast as I want.

They want to use a cleaner and a stop leak additive during the fluid exchange process. I’m ignorant on the additives, but my first thought is to not use the stop leak style additive. Advice if I do have the shop use an extractor for a fluid exchange?

 

I would pass on the stop leak, extractor shouldn't hurt I suppose but I'm not quite sure what they mean by extractor.

 

Some cars require a vacuum extractor to suck out the coolant. Ours don’t. Also don’t use stop leak - it will clog radiator and small passages

 

Thank you both

 

https://youtu.be/s--5ft5YiHg?si=4_faoTslaMOYNVLc

 

HAY GUUUUUUUYS