What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Some background:





Interesting place, never been.

 

Brought the camper home to winterize and do a few repairs on the plumbing for the outdoor kitchen this weekend. First time pulling it since all the suspension upgrades and they really made a huge difference. All together more stable and smooth ride and the HD RAS system greatly reduces the amount of sag in the rear compared to before.

 

KKK RRR Ooooooo Q !

 

Had to put off the trip until the 24th. I'm pretty stoked for it, starting at Salton, then to San Bernardino and back into AZ along 40 with detours on what's left of 66.

 

PO 2445. Air injection pump code: pump stuck off.

Pulled my air injection pumps. Kind of a pain.

You have to remove the fender liner. The liner is incorporated with the mud flap. Many plastic clips were broke.

Fortunately HF has a $12 kit with all the clips, darts, plugs, whatever you want to call them, that you will need.

Bench tested both pumps. Pumps are fine. Smooth sounding and spool up fast. Checked continuity on the flow switches. Both have continuity when pump is off. I'm assuming this is the normal reading. I should have checked if the switches cut off when the pumps are running. I didn't think of it because I was pissed that Toyota uses those Torx bits with the security pin in the center of the screw head. I wanted to take the switches out and look at them up close and personal.

Now that I think of it, there must be reason they used those tamper proof screws. I'm wondering if the sensor wires are cut, if the aip code won't be thrown? I doubt it, it's just that easy.

Regardless, I found nothing wrong with both pumps. They both bench test perfect.

I put it back together and cleared the code with my scanner.

As most know, after 2012, Toyota programed the ECU to Cycle the pumps at random times to prevent moisture build up in the pumps.

I won't know for a couple days if the code comes back.

Fwi. The 2 large posts are power feeds to the pump. The small posts are continuity feeds to the ECU. These are the ones with the security, anti tamper screws protecting the switch body on the side of both pump housings. I forgot to snap a pic. Sorry.

 

Happen to have a link, part number, or name/description of this? I could use it as well.

 

I’ve gotten it off every 5k miles for the past 70k miles. I think you guys are just putting it too tight.

 

Standby...

 

Here you go. Be aware, these are not the factory version, but in my opinion, they are superior. The factory pins are a bit sloppy. These fit much snugger.

 

I'm like you and never had a problem getting the small cap off the bottom of the filter housing.

 

Appreciate it!

 

I like this post.

As quincidentql as it seems, I just swapped out the plastic housing with the aluminum version yesterday.

Since 2008 I have never pulled that plug to swap filters. I unscrew the housing and let it drain. Such a waste of time. It's just a little oil and there is always towels present.

I can only hope that plug sizes in The filter body. It will make oil changes even more fast.

 

Mine comes off easy every time. You’re using the new o-ring with a little oil applied? And torque to only 9 ft-lbs. that’s not much more than finger tight… like a bump on the ratchet handle after it’s snug

 

I must be the only person in the world that prefers this filter setup on a filter mounted with the threads above it. With the motivx drain tool and housing wrench, I can pull mine without spilling a drop or getting anything on my hands. Compared to any rig I’ve ever done the oil change on that has a “regular” filter in that same position I’d have oil running down my arm every time.

Now the newer Subaru design has the cartridge filter inverted and right up front/right of the engine bay. That shit is the easiest oil change I’ve ever done.

 

Have any of y'all replaced the moulding that covers the top of the tailgate? I see them on Amazon for anywhere between $30 and $70 and I'm wondering if they are all created equal or if there is anything special I should be looking for?
2018 crewmax

 

I did not too long ago. If you have pop-outs in the molding for the stake pockets, be sure the new set has that as well. Or you can cut them out yourself but that’s a bit messy & could end up looking like shit.

Edit: sorry you said top of the tailgate, I was thinking top of bedside.

 

Love me some MotivX drain tools and funnel

 

Motivx all the way. That kit makes life so much easier

 

I didn't say I hated it - it's still vastly cleaner than any other conventional filter I've had to remove before.

 

Can I get a lil more info on how you extended the harness? I need this is my life

 

I've seen my fair share of canister filters on way too tight to where you need to destroy them to get them off. The drain plug on the cap is barely hand tight, then the oil filter housing is a little over hand tight.

 

The only complaint I have with the Motivx filter wrench is there is too much suction to make it a PITA to get off the cap. Other than that, I completely agree.

 

I opened up the tailgate and removed the factory camera and harness from the tailgate, and disconnected the plug just behind the spare tire.

Bought this off of Amazon:

$10 20 Gauge 4 Conductor Wire, 10FT 20/4 Tinned Copper 4 Wire Cable, Stranded Electrical Wires for Speaker,Automotive,Thermostat,Trailer,Irrigation,Sprinkler Etc

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5MKHM1...apin_dp_D3354F89Y34ZWT2TPHAS&starsLeft=1&th=1

Cut the factory harness and used the self soldering heat shrink butt connectors to add the wiring in. I used the plastic j-box as a temp fix, but have this arriving today:
https://813fabrication.com/products/alu-cab-camera-relocation-bracket-tacoma-tundra

I'll bolt the 813 Fab mount to the RIGD swing out that I have, route the wiring how I want it, and zip tie it all in place.

For $80 total, it beats the hell out of the +$200 options I've seen elsewhere, and I can always reinstall the camera into the tailgate if needed.

@sea_weathered is due the credit for the idea and links; I was brainfucking the solution, and this was the simplest.

 

So you just cut off the connector then spliced on the end of the extension? I was over here thinking about the expense of wifi cams and just couldn't bring myself to spend it. This is perfect and I appreciate the help.

 

I left about a 12" pigtail, but yeah, spliced in the wire and called it good. Beats the hell out of the wifi cams and the expense. You dont even need the fancy 813 bracket; make one out of scrap steel or aluminum and the cost is even less.

 

Last Thursday I received the Westcott Designs rock sliders I bought from @JrJrOffroad
These things are built very, very well. DOM tubing and beautiful TIG welds. They're almost too nice.
He was super easy to work with and even threw in some extra filters. Stoked!

 

Looks good. That was a hell of a deal... I was just about to grab them before you did.

 

Damn near Rubicon ready now

 

Hell yes! So glad the shipping worked out