1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

It's not horrible, but about 5% of the time I can't find shit. Especially on topics that come up often. I use the following to make search here effective. If you just LOOK at the options, you can figure it out, and I think the results show by date-of-last-reply, ascending.

1. If I know the word was in a title, like the "hall of shame", I'll type "shame" in the search box, check box #1 below, and search. Works every time. I also make a point of putting "INFO DUMP" in my info dump threads so I can search for INFO DUMP and check box #1 and get the results immediately. I sometimes pair this with box #4 "this forum only" because I bookmark and start from the main page of the 1st gen subforum, and don't want results from outside our forum.
2. I sometimes remember when XYZ member had a problem. Say it was @KNABORES and it involved a deer hitting his truck. I'd put "DEER" in as the search term, put KNABORES in box #2 and search. It'll limit results only to places he directly said or quoted someone else saying DEER. Again, I may pair with box #4 to only show results from this forum.
3. If the thread is like @Tundra2's build thread and it's 50mil pages long but I want to know how he handed the yellow cake coolant, I'd go into his build thread, search for the word "cake" and tick off box #3 to only give me results from inside that thread directly.
4. Needs no explanation, but is so incredibly important to filter out noise from other forums. Cannot be paired with / does not work with box #3 checked.
5. If I'm searching for something but the results are pages long because it's a common term or phrase, I'll usually add another word I think would be in the topic and check box #5 so it shows me individual threads containing my terms, ordered by date. Unfortunately, for marathon threads like "What'd you do today" and "Lunch Table", it really screws you, it picks an arbitraty spot to jump you to in the thread.
6. Duh, the search button. But note, the Google Search box below that ... you can skip boxes #1-#6 I just posted about, and just type your terms into the 'google search' box, then click the 'google search' button below it, and it only searches Google for results inside this website (same thing as going to Google directly and prefixing SITE:Tundras.com in front of your search terms)

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Yeah, I'm not bitching about anyone in particular. Who am I? Lol! I just find it hard to accept that I'm that much smarter than the next person or have a special skill that they don't. Like I said, this site has never failed to deliver if I persevered. I admit not being fond of lazy people.

Rant over

 

I wasn't singling you out. You're good in my book

 

Hey guys, I just want to share that it's been a year today that I decided to go sober, and it's been a year today that I gave myself to Jesus. I lost 65 pounds this year and my life and relationships are better than ever. Shout out to my (unofficial) sponsor on here who has walked with me through this journey. It's been a blast, and I can't wait to see what 2025 brings! Happy New Year!

 

You have my full support. Happy for you. Over 16 yrs here, BTW. I get it.

 

Nice job duder. That's something to be proud of. Keep it up!

You've got all our support.

 

Not tundra related but kind of. A few months ago I bought a decent 2004 4Runner v8. It’s got like 275k on it and I did the tb/wp, rear brakes, plugs, coils. Long story short we found out the odo was wrong and the previous owner swapped the dash out for one with 140k. Also they disabled the check engine light. Illegal, I know but this dude is nowhere to be found so I’m living with it.

I just took it in to get inspected to renew the registration and got the p0420 and 0430 codes for bad cats. Idk if this stupid thing is worth putting anymore $$ in its already cost a bunch to get running good. It does run and ride nice and is rust free. Opinions?

 

It's cheaper so I'd go with an O2 sensor first to see if maybe that would fix the issue.

 

^^^THIS^^^

On the note of other "illegal stuff" you could always install an O2 spacer/defouler and roll with it.

 

Here’s the results

 

Couple of thoughts for you.

Remember, a if you have a iR temperature gun, you can use that to verify your cat is functioning, i.e. not clogged. Get the engine up to operating temperature on a 10-15 min drive. Shoot the upstream bung, log the temp. Shoot the downstream bung, log the temp. Inverse of logic, the downstream should be hotter by at least a good 10-20%. If the downstream is equal to or cooler, Houston we have a problem!

Make sure when testing, you're shooting from roughly the same distance. If you don't have a gun, this could be a great excuse to buy one, but if you have an OBDII reader like my MX+, if you load extra SAE PIDs, you can see what temps the sensors are logging. You can also watch the voltage of the downstream, which should stay pretty solid, if it's jumping all over the place, bouncing up/down more than half a volt, that's really unusual. Upstream fluctuates; downstream should stay solid IIRC.

Could be a good sanity check before making effort, the above.

That being said, also remember there are two main reasons you'll get this code:

• Cat is failed, i.e. it's either clogged and/or not filtering, OR it has a hole/crack/breach in (from manifold back) it that's allowing gasses to escape or outside air to come in and skew numbers.
• Upstream and/or downstream sensor are spitting out bad numbers, leading the ECU to think the cat isn't filtering enough shit out.

Not to say it couldn't be wiring-related, bad ground, someone cut the O2 wires to install universal/aftermarket sensors, or otherwise. I've seen stories of intake and exhaust manifold gaskets causing it. I also know there are gaskets on some exhaust flanges, and even for some sensors and I'm not discounting those could cause the problem. But the two points above probably account for 75% of all cases, and IIRC these are the only two things the FSM has you checking for diagnostics.

Obviously, before you dive in deep, get a mirror, check the integrity of the cats, check ever flange bolt/nut, holes in the pipes, try to flex the exhaust pipes apart from each other at joints (while cold duh) to ensure there's no break in the joint, no obvious cracks, you know the drill.

Check the wiring leading up to the sensor, up to 18-24" before the actual sensor itself.

Then dive in. Don't parts cannon this one, knowing there are these couple of things you can do to verify. At least do the temp check.

You can also get foulers if you need to pass emissions temporarily, if your state doesn't check the pipes. They don't check for anything on vehicles here in GA, just hook up to the computer, or a sniffer if you're pre-OBDII, and they DGAF what's under the hood or on the pipes.

 

I dont miss emission testing, but i think i might miss the safety inspection. Sometime in February, yall expect me to gloat about my windshield wipers & all my lights working. Glad i dont have to worry about my seatbelt latches anymore.

 

Anyone care to help me identify this baby snake I encountered on my walk in the park this afternoon?

At first I thought copper head, coral, or king.... But it doesn't quite look like any of those from pics online.
Baby rattler without the rattle?

Edit: starting to think it was a diamondback water snake. It was near a ditch.

 

Western/"Texas" Rat Snake ?

 

The hint of red makes me think not

 

I timed my commute home from work yesterday. I hit every green light. 8 minutes

W I N

 

I only get that at 3am around here.

 

I'm going to miss relying on them to check my tread levels every year haha.

 

Heck yeah dude! Congrats. I meant to ask you about that when we met, but I didn't want to bring it up in front of the fam. I know they love and support you, but it just didn't seem like the right time to ask. Keep it up.

 

Try the o2 sensor spacers. Maybe cat clean in the gas tank

 

I could let you borrow my URD o2 simulator if spacers don't work. I've got a couple spacers leftover
I just registered today.

 

Very difficult to say, snakes are usually in many pieces by the time I get THAT close!

 

I raise the BS flag. My suburban has over 330K miles and doesn’t burn a drop. I’ve had to replace some gaskets and seals but I never add any between oil changes. I’ve been using WallyMart’s finest SuperTech synthetic 5W30 which also goes in my Tundras.

 

Everyone likes clean naughty bits.
Build a coop on their side of the line with the laying box on your side. You only want the eggs, not the maintenance.

 

Maybe it’s just my own, friends and family experience growing up driving old 70s GM beaters. I’ve also read that the tech back then wasn’t great and it was common for engine oil to blow by piston rings for high mileage engines and most of us experienced having some amount of oil burning.

 

Feels a lot like saying "BS, my 330k mile engine runs perfectly after I rebuilt it."

 

Gaskets and seals ≠ Engine rebuild



Here's what excessive oil consumption looks like

 

I consider rings to be seals, maybe that's wrong. But makes sense to me, bad rings burns oil, yeah?

 

Rings are 1/2 of the equation. The cylinder bore wears and gets out of round as well.

 

Happy New Year everyone. Be safe.