Poor audio quality kenwood head unit

Shifty gets it! Maestro is the best.
But, it must be flashed for the SWC's to work how you want and the base price (under $300) is boosted if you want brand specific harness adapters (recommended). This is why I was reluctant at first.

Longer story...
A year ago tomorrow, I had just purchased my Tundra and was figuring out which harness I'd be using to install my Kenwood (DNX697S) Head Unit.
I bought all of them: Despite the advertising, none acknowledge the 20-PIN K9 Tundra plug for Gen 1.0 and Gen 2.0 Tundra. By Gen 2.5, it changed to a 28-PIN plug the harnesses do plug into.
After whiteboarding (below), I made my choice (iDataLink over PAC) and rebuilt the harness, eliminating plugs that would not be used in my specific 2008 Tundra DoubleCab JBL installation:


PS:
Trying to figure out how to retain the factory microphone with the installation led me to this site, where I posted a pic of the Maestro harness laid out on a whiteboard.
It takes only a glance to realize this isn't something for the wiring newbie to muck about with: https://www.tundras.com/threads/use-oem-mic-with-aftermarket-headunit.93038/page-2#post-3431675
A year later, there are now (only) two of us with the factory microphone functional with an aftermarket head unit.
I know it's possible for others: Plug-n-Play is the barrier.

 

@IIonPilgrimg thanks for your reply. That seems a bit out of my wheel house but I’m willing to learn.

i removed the back door panel and checked on the speaker. It seems fine with no deterioration.

i also removed the stereo again and the PO had the first three in the on position on the PAC unit. I tested them out as @shifty` had suggested and all three in the on sounds the best.

 

I'd ditch that PAC stuff.

There isn't that much to flashing a Maestro.
It's easier now than is used to be.
It may seem intimidating, but it really isn't.
If I can do it, you can do it..

Click 'flash your module', make an account and download the Weblink Desktop.



Weblink Desktop


Step-by-step video.
You can use default, or change your steering wheel buttons if desired..

https://youtu.be/UKI4ejjNOeQ?si=3_bdK6b_3YhF5W9C

 

Without having a concrete way to tweak the amp up, I can’t think of any way to make this work for you. If probably opt to Metra bypass and speaker update. But I’d verify if the PAC SWC will work standalone before making that choice.

 

The only thing that is holding me back is the cost. But I appreciate the positive encouragement.

So I need to reach out to the company to see if the steering unit will work without the PAC unit installed. I’m assuming it will because they sell both units separately. But they maybe wired together. All of those wires in the back are intimidating but with everyone’s help I’m sure I can get it done.

Will upgraded speakers be affected by the OEM wires?

 

No. 4 ohm speakers will be fine.

In theory, a 50 watt amp (@ 2 ohms) is a 25 watt amp (@ 4 ohms).

Wish I were there: We could plug in my factory JBL radio and set the amp to 3/4 volume for you.

I won't say it's odd. But, I asked a local 'shop dude' a 2ohm vs. 4ohm speaker question, "Do they sell many 2 ohm speaks now, compared to 4 ohm like they used to?"
The response was a cryptic, "Not really," which satisfied me. But, it wasn't the truth.
At some point (while I wasn't paying attention), it appears everyone has been playing with ohms, complicating the car audio market.
Here's a ($100 component) speaker specs example...
"
General Specifications -
Woofer: 6.5" Polypropylene Driver
Tweeter: 3/4" Silk Dome
Power Handling: 60Wrms, 180W peak
Sensitivity (2.83V@1m): 92dB
Frequency Response (-6dB): 55Hz – 20kHz
Nominal Impedance: 3.0 ohms
Crossover Point: 5kHz@12dB/octave
"

 

Man that would nice. Maybe I can find someone local that has one to help me out. How would I connect the OEM HU to the PAC unit or would I need to bypass it?

 

You'd return it to all factory, briefly.

 

Basically, yeah. You'd unplug the (one, or two?) OEM white plugs that originally went to the stereo and plug them back into the OEM radio, turn the volume down on that OEM radio, turn on the truck and center the fader/balance, then turn the volume to 3/4, and turn the truck off, and re-plug the Kenwood radio and PAC.

No, not that I cam think of? Upgraded speakers will only be impacted if you keep the OEM amp, and the new speakers aren't 2ohm. But there are companies out there, like PowerBass, who make quality 2ohm drivers that are plug-and-play for our trucks, a direct upgrade if you keep the OEM amp. MORE INFO HERE.

If you can manage to get your hands on any JBL OEM radio from a similar year Sienna, Tundra, Sequoia, Camry, Tacoma, etc. it should be plug-and-play, and you can test this whole "set volume to 3/4" trick PAC recommends, then plug the PAC back in after. You'll know it's JBL Toyota radio because it'll have the JBL logo silkscreened onto the face. You'll know the date is roughly correct (2004-2007 is your target) because it should have a manufacture month/date on the factory white sticker on the top or bottom of the radio. You may even find someone on here that will ship their old OEM radio to you, if you pay for the ride. I sent my OEM Fujitsu amp and OEM head unit to a member in Cali and didn't ask a penny for it. What would it accomplish? You could settle, once and for all, that the JBL OEM amp was set to the correct state BEFORE the PAC is re-installed (i.e. re-plugged-in).

Definitely not the truth. You can get 2ohm drivers as I just linked. Tons of companies selling 3ohm drivers. But the standard still seems to be 4ohm in mobile audio, 8ohm residential from what I gather...

 

Meant to say the 'whole truth.' Suppose I was asking the wrong question. It never occurred to me the factory would use 2 ohm speakers. Glad to know the 'standard' hasn't changed.

 

I was shocked when I heard it myself. I think that’s one I picked up from BubbaW.

 

Would this work?

 

This is effectively what you're looking for. Part ending "0c130" (less buttons) for single disc or "0c140" for more buttons + multi-disc. Note the manufactured dates.

​

 

PS - there were also a couple of nav/hands-free options for the JBL system in our era of trucks (Tundra/Sequoia). The part ending "-340x0" is what I see more commonly, and I believe the part ending 20 or 30 may have something to do with fabric vs. leather amp, but I'm not 100% certain. A couple of these have sold in the 1st Gen Marketplace here on the forum.

86120-0C170 (JBL)
86120-34020 (JBL)
86120-34030 (JBL, found in Sequoia, Sienna)

It's this unit, again, note the JBL logo just below the PWR*VOL button.

​

 

I have this head unit in my 08 4Runner...I love it, but for 3 major deficiencies:
1. GPS map data is no longer available (last update more than 10 years ago!)
2. No USB interface!!
3. Bluetooth for phone only (no streaming!!!)

 

I’m leaning towards removing the PAC TATO unit but keeping the PAC SWC unit. Upgrading the front speakers to 6.5" and 6.5" rear. Run the amp bypass. What adapters or harnesses will I need for the head unit after removing the TATO unit? Am I missing anything else?

For the front speakers crutchfield recommends about 140 models. Do I need component speakers up front or will 2-way speakers be fine?

these two models have higher sensitivity, is that really important or will the JBL club 64fsl be ok?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675X2/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675X2.html?tp=105
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R607FSL/Infinity-Reference-REF607FSL-shallow-mount.html?tp=105


The end goal will be to install a IDataLink Maestro (RR2) unit, which I can’t afford right now. Then add a sub and amp.

 

I think you said you ordered the 70-8117 earlier, yes? If yes, that contains everything you need to bypass the amp and power your head unit.

First off: I believe the non-JBL DC trucks (and possibly non-amplified DC) have 2 speakers in each front door, a mid and a tweeter, and I believe the JBL trucks have 3 speakers, which is a mid and ~2" next to it in the lower door, and the tweeter in the sail panel? I'm not 100% positive and I'd need to dig. Maybe @weadjust can answer that (and I recommend you and others helping you here SEE THIS)

I'd ask first, do you have a speaker in the "sail panel"? i.e. the little triangle on the door in the same position as the rear view mirror? If yes, knowing that would be helpful. This way we can do a better job of digging.

I love JBL Club series, it's exceptional bang vs. buck for accurate, warm reproduction and decent lower-mid range. It's what I recommend to everyone on here as a solid, well-rounded budget-friendly choice. I just wish they offered a 6.75" or 7" midwoofer component in that offering. I'd be stoked if more manufacturers offered a 7" option, honesty, especially something fuller-ranged. But just need to be careful about what you get, without fully understanding what's in your doors now.

 

I do have speakers in the sail panel.

 

I'm going to assume then, your rear door has a single speaker per side, probbly 6¾", and your front door has 3 speakers per side, where the lower (passenger in this pic) door speakers look like this:

​

 

I assume the same things based off things that I’ve been reading. How should I move forward with the new information about the 3 speakers regarding upgraded the front speakers?

 

I didn't get a chance to finish up what I was digging on. I had a full reply typed after that last post, then promised I'd make a soup for dinner for the wife and kids, but never made it back to my desk, and lost it when my system rebooted overnight. Just re-opened my browser after that forced reboot, and here we are.

The gist of that reply, re-typed, was:

• Even with the wiring diagram on the previous page of this thread, the wiring is unclear to me, taking the the passenger door pic above; specifically, I don't understand the function of the violet/pink wire pair. Maybe if I could see what's on the other end of that beige connector in the top-left corner of the pic, and the wiring once it hits the black dual-speaker housing, it'd help. Diagram shows the blue/green and black-yellow/white-blue wiring incoming from the right are direct from the amp. The only options that makes sense to me without seeing the wiring is this with my own eyes and popping out the speakers, knowing the drivers are marked as 2-ohm (per other members here who've pulled them): The black-yellow/white-blue pair are feeding the larger mid in the door which is 2ohm, and the blue/green pair goes up to the sail panel tweet via the beige connector, which is 4ohm, then routes off the tweeter terminals, down to the smaller lower-door speaker via the violet/pink wire pair, and that smaller coned speaker (also 4ohm) wiring them in parallel (pairing positives/negatives), creating a 2ohm load as seen by the amp. I can't fathom any other sensible way to create two
• I see Crutchfield is showing Metra 72-9301 wiring adapter for rear door speakers and Metra 72-8104 for the lower front speaker(s). Back door, the 9301 product is pretty basic, plug and play. Front door, the 8104 product appears to hook into the beige connector at the top-left of that pic above, and apparently isolates out the tweeter, deleting the purple/yellow lead, effectively killing that smaller speaker in the lower door, which I see two options, one I like, and one I don't like. What I wouldn't like is cutting the black-yellow/white-blue wire outside the black housing, and re-crimping new leads. What I'd prefer would be popping out the larger mid, cutting its leads inside that black housing, then re-terminating with spades and connecting to the new speaker.
• Rear speaker choice, I'd probably go with this or this, I actually may prefer the latter, conceptually, but have zero first-hand experience with PowerBass product. Front speaker choice, if bypassing the OEM amp, this is a tough choice, because again, I can't see the wiring, and any component (mid + tweeter) option you pick, you're stuck deleting a pair of wires (crossover will only accept one input pair). Using the Metra 8104 product, I'd probably go with this or this, Attach the 8104 to that beige connector on the door, using the two new Metra wires (black/white) to feed the crossover, then wiring to the tweeter and woofer independently. I'd leaver the smaller lower door speaker intact, pop out the woofer, cut its wiresa few inches from the speaker terminals, tape the loose ends inside the door with flashing tape, then find a creative way to route the wiring out of the door (which would probably be notching the base of that black speaker housing and using a door seal tarball to hold them in place). Doing it this way, everything is totally reversible later - you're not cutting any factory wiring (except the wires inside the black two-speaker housing, which are negligible because you can easily re-terminate later if you wanted to rollback, or just replace the housing from a donor vehicle). I'd mount the crossover direct to the door in the box shown below, if you don't want to drill, consider industrial-strength Velcro which is what I've always used for no-drill installs in audio, server cabinets, digital displays, tradeshow booths.
• Hopefully this makes sense?

​

 

I feel like @BubbaW has been down this path of replacing JBL system with aftermarket head unit + aftermarket speakers. I believe @Weagle and @Cummins3500 have also. I'd be interested in how they went about it.

This is something I'd intended to work w/ @Dakillacore with on his truck, when he's ready to upgrade, I'm eager to get the hands-on experience with someone's JBL truck so I can speak a bit more definitively on the topic. It's tougher to give advice on some things when you haven't physically put your hands on it.

 

Oh and if it helps with the amp bypass wiring for a JBL system, check this reply from BubbaW. He shows nicely where the harness attaches to S24 there. You'd then want to wrap the wires of the harness (the green/purple/etc. wires hanging off in his 2nd pic), then route those up to the dash to attach to the radio harness.

And actually, I'm editing this post to say (for future viewers) this is how I'd handle the case: https://www.tundras.com/threads/can’t-remove-sail-panel-on-drivers-side.153387/page-2#post-3824238

​

 

It's coming for sure! I'll keep you posted once I get it all together and we can dive into it.

 

Thank you for this infromation. What is the S24? I see a R24.

The link from BubbaW is not working. Any chance you can send it again? Thanks,

 

Sorry bad link, I just fixed my post, see reply #9 here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wire-these-things-so-difficult.130892/#post-3332475

 

Much better, thanks.

Im going to reach out to Crutchfield tomorrow for assistance with the bypass amp install and removing the PAC gear.

 

You'll notice in that post @shifty` linked where I mentioned the bypass harness has extra conductors. The harness can be used on numerous Toyota models.

They were very helpful for my install and don't forget to download each and every pdf they offer for each item, especially the bypass harness.

Good luck

 

Thank you.

 

Amp bypass will very likely solve the problem, although it seems a lot of $$ and trouble for little benefit. Still jacking your thread (sorry)... If you take the opportunity to replace with a couple of these
Two would be quite affordable: 150W x 6 @ 4 ohms (bridge one in 3 channel mode for a sub: 300W @ 4 ohms (dash center channel ignored / remember these dissipate heat)
When browsing through the rainforest, ignore bad reviews and 'frequently returned' comment. Lots of uses for them. I own 6 and am considering more... until they're gone...



Bugger! Now I'm thinking about sound cones...