1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

And yes, we know the ceiling pattern is horrible.

@des2mtn already pointed it out.

My wife wants to move all our furniture out of the house and sand every inch of ceiling. I told her she's crazy.

 

Yes it's a basement rancher where half the basement is the garage and the rest is a finished living space. They only insulated the ceiling above the garage and not the rest.

 

LOL, I wasn't being sarcastic, I love stomped ceilings!

 

Which vehicle? Did you try AT-205 in the crankcase yet?

I bought a full roll several years ago, used a third of it, and keep the rest it in the attic for little patchwork like this.

You wouldn't sand it first unless you're masochistic, you'd lay plasic tarp on the floor, douse it with a mixture of water and a squirt of dish soap, I'd recommend a ½ gallon hand-pump sprayer with adjustable tip for application rather than a spray bottle. Let it soak for 15-20, spray again, then take a 6"-8" steel putty knife and work at a shallow/tight angle to scrape it off. This will get 90% of that shit off the ceiling. Let it dry overnight, sand down any high spots with 200-400 grit, or better yet using sanding mesh/screens with the appropriate hand tool if you have (another thing I keep on-hand at the house at all times).

As long as it hasn't been painted too many times, the water treatment should do the trick to soften things up, maybe with 1 spray, possibly 2, and a putty knife will take hella shit off without drywall dust lingering for days. Just don't gouge the sheet rock, keeping a low/tight angle should help with that.

 

For the Tundra. I haven't tired that, but I will do that first. It's not a major leak and I don't have any dripping on my driveway. It's just on the transmission housing and oil pan from the wind when driving.

 

You sure it's the RMS?

Ask @The Black Mamba, he went thru this, chnged the RMS, but it wasn't the RMS.

If the rear half-moon plugs aren't properly sealed, they'll dump oil all over the back half of the bellhousing, around the top of the transmission. As will leaky VC gaskets, I'm sure. There are two half-moons per head, the upper one would be the likely culprit here. But there are other ways for oil to get into things and mimick RMS leak.

 

I'm not 100% sure, just going off of what the stealership says. My knowledge of the seals/where a leak could come from is very low. I was planning on taking it to Toyotechs in Chamblee to get a second opinion/quote since they are a better location. It's just a good chunk farther away from my house.

 

Alright we got good weather on Monday and I have almost all the parts for the lift. I’m doing 6112/5160s, jba UCAs, suspensionmaxx sway bar links, oem LBJs, new rear leafs and add a leaf. I’m trying to have as much on hand as possible to eliminate the back and forth to the LAP store as much as I can. Double check my thoughts below and let me know if I’m missing any more odd/not everyday tools

- need a skinny 9/16 for holding the lower end of the sway bar link
- need snap ring pliers for retaining clip on the UBJ
- need various ball joint press rental kits from LAP (I’ll probably rent them all)

And two questions.

- Should I just go ahead and remove the whole spindle and rotor at first to make this easier?
- I don’t have my rear shocks yet, but I have the leafs and add a leaf. I am considering just installing the leaves and leaving the old shocks on or just taking them off and driving without rear shocks for a couple weeks til I get the 5160s. As hard as it looks to get the rear shocks off and as heavy as the leafs are, I’m thinking it’d be good to get as far as I can while I am at my buddies house with all the air tools and 4 hands. Thoughts?
- I was gonna pb blast every nut I’m gonna touch. Any nuts to avoid that on?

 

Buy the rigid foam R board and cut to fit, stack the extra on top for added R value.

 

Could consider a primer coat then a skim coat of mud over, not sand it.

 

IIRC @shifty` likes removing spindle for UBJ swaps to make press work easier. If do that will likely want some caps/plugs for caliper the brake lines.

 

I pulled the knuckles & feel like it was easier. You can leave the calipers hanging from the truck.

 

do you need to loosen the lbj bolts to replace he coilover assembly?

 

He'll be watching...

 

On my 03 disconnected the LBJs and sway bar links to get enough stretch for the strut to come out and back in.

 

I'd get under there, and with a mirror, and look at the back of the heads. On our later years, it's tougher because the SAI valves and other bullshit are at the back of the intake. But inspect for oil drippage on the back of the heads. On the back of the engine as a whole, see how high up the staining goes. They're potentially jumping to conclusions at the stealership, rather than truly digging to see what the problem is. I find any time something is leaking at the back of the engine, anywhere near the bellhousing, folks instantly go to RMS. If it's a GM truck, I believe it. On these Toyotas, it just does not seem to happen on the V8 very much, if at all. And potentially even true with the V6es they put in these things too.

First, you don't need snap ring pliers for the UBJ retention. Any reverse-open too will do. A flathead works.

Second, it's far easier IMHO to remove the entire knuckle if you need to press out the UBJ. Yes, it requires unbolting the LBJ. It also makes it waaaaaay easier to install coilovers/struts with it out. But you must understand if you go that route, it requires unbolting the CV axle, which means (A) you'll need to pop off the dust cap which takes a bit of work, then (B) pop off the CV's cotter, the retention cap, (C) you'll need an impact with the proper sized very-large-metric socket to pop loose the CV axle nut. If you don't have an impact, then I'd jack, pop wheel off, do A & B, then reinstall the wheel, and use a breaker bar for C. Reinstalling the CV axle nut ... really, you can either impact the shit out of it and it'll probably be OK, else you need a torque wrench that goes up to 200, I think the tq spec is 173-ftlb on that one?

And of course, you'll have to take the caliper off to get the rotor off the spindle, so 2 more bolts. Make sure you have S-shaped hooks or bungees to suspend the CV axle, and suspend the brake caliper so you're not bending lines.

Look, I disagree with Josh's methodology and would do several things differently, but I'm not going to nitpick this video. However, I also understand others would disagree with how I did my stuff, too. However, he shows a lot of the work you'll be doing here, and had the balls to make a video showing the work which I sure as hell didn't do, and I find that just being able to visualize the work is worthwhile. If I tell you anything, any advice: DO NOT do what he does to get the lower shock bolt back in. If you don't take out the spindle, like Josh does here, feel free to step on the LCA and push it down to get the lwoer bolt in. And install it correctly, with the nut spinning onto the bumper side, i.e. install from the back hole sliding toward the front. It's this way intentionally, just as the UCA bolt is installed similarly back to front.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2unFVNRry8​

 

I got under there a little bit and snapped some shots. I'll need to get in there closer to do some digging, but this is what I was able to get pictures of. They might not be too useful, though. Sorry in advance. I did just get the transmission fluid changed out today.

 

I agree with shifty. I would clean it up well from top to bottom and keep an eye on it to determine exactly where the root problem is. It's most-likely at the top-end and simply making its way downward, giving the impression that the problem is at the bottom-end. Gravity. I would recommend checking the torque-values on the valve covers to verify they are in-spec and then, after a thorough cleaning from top to bottom monitoring for leaking.

 

Thanks, buddy. I'll clean it up real good and see how far and can get up in there to inspect.

 

Absolutely . 9 out of 10 times the issue is from above (valve covers being the most common culprit). Not saying I guarantee valve covers are the problem, but they are where I'd start, then go from there. Based on everything I've experienced and read, the resolution is probably very simple. Keep us posted!

 

@Dakillacore , a simple wipe with a cloth or paper towel will help you determine whether the leakage is trans-related or oil-related from above. If the substance wiped from around the trans as shown in your images is not reddish, this should tell you the fluid is coming from above.

 

It's not reddish. I wiped it the first time that I noticed it and it's definitely oil. My oil level wasn't noticeably low on my dipstick either, so this is a very small quantity leak for now.

 

I'm not surprised. Your issue is top-end related, then. You know what to do

 

Yeah I was thinking about that. I could just unbolt the caliber from the rotor, right? Always easier in text but in theory, that should be fine, I think?

I’m swapping the LBJs, so I can change that order up if I need to get things to fit easier

Ok good info! So I will have access to a 1/2” air impact, so no shortage of uggas at least when it comes to loosening stuff. I also ordered a 35mm impact socket for the cv axle nut in case, and it should be here tomorrow. So from what I’m seeing here, it’ll take a little extra work, but may in the end be faster and certainly will be easier with the rotor off and spindle out. We only have up to a 150 ft lb torque wrench, but I can probably rent a big dog from LAP if needed. Or just go to 150 then give it a little more. A little worried about screwing up the dust cap, but if that’s the only casualty after this, honestly I’d count that as a win.

I watched Josh’s entire video which is a great reference just to get an idea of what I’m dealing with, but I’ll be sure to keep those bolts facing the right way.

 

Nice

 

Ouch bud. I changed my transmission a few years back. It was the valve body that went bad on mine. Stealer wanted $1,400 just for the vale body. Ended up picking up a 119k mile trans from a junkyard for $700. So far so good.

 

You can blow in insulation fairly cheaply. Cut a hole between each stud near top of wall and blown in. Might even find a company to do it at such a reasonable price it’s worth paying a little extra vs doing yourself. Done in a day so low labor costs and they have the tools.

 

I was organizing the garage today and found something special. Pop’s used to make his own flies in his day…Some 100-ish flies and all his gear to make more. You were something pops. Thanks

 

Spent the last couple of days tearing down ol' leaky, my 1966 Lincoln SA-200 welder. The Continental flathead was burning/leaking 2+ quarts of oil a day. So bad that I started doing a lunch time oil check in addition to my normal morning oil check.



Hopefully it will outlive me when I'm done.

 

That’s pretty cool. I didn’t know they made welders that ran on engines to generate current, but it makes a lot of sense. Is it really loud or does it have a muffler to cut down on the noise?