General Supercharger Thread

Not a good month for me. Looks like that smoke from the catch can is severe blow-by looking into rebuild/junk yard replacement options. LKQ has a sub 70k 2020 for 5500. Guess that's why I have been getting such awful mileage. It's really odd, I detect no performance loss (outside MPGs)

What is the consensus on drop in vs rebuild?

 

Maybe I missed it buried in this thread somewhere, but did you do a compression or leak down test? It was smoking from a sealed catch can?

 

I blew my 4.0 in the 2010 Tacoma last year. Tore it down and found the thrust bearing gave which killed #3 and 4 rod bearings, which killed the cylinder walls. Picked up a junk yard motor local, which had issues, and combined the two motors together to make one good one. I’d say if you have the time, tear it down and rebuild. If you don’t, then just swap it. It took me from Nov 23’ to June 24’, but I also had room for it to sit and another vehicle. When I finally sorted through all the scam motor websites and found the cheapest possible motor, which happened to be local, I finally made the swap. In reality, if I wanted to, I coulda probably had the swap done in maybe two weeks.

 

It's a vented catch can, about 3 months ago, it started mildly smoking from the filter on the can. Last month it got a bit worse, yesterday it became like it was steaming coolant.

It's coming from both valve breathers & the oil cap.

I have not done any testing yet, need to do compression & leakdown but whichever way it goes I'll need a shop to do the actual work.

I suppose if it is the valves, then I just need to rebuild the heads but that's a decision for after the diagnosis.

I'd think seeing as no apparent oil loss is happening it might be valves.

Ouch, that is a mess.

I already have an engineless car in my garage, I don't have the bandwidth for another motor project.

Whichever way it goes, it'll be at a shop somewhere.

 

In 2015 I blew my engine. Put a low mileage one from a 2012 in, stll going. Definitely do a leak down test. If it's really excessive then you got something going on. Hopefully its not serious...good luck.

 

Am I mistaken that if I'm not losing oil it should be the valves so hopefully would only need work on the heads? (I'm doing an oil change, bumping from 5-20 to 5-40 after running a cleaner through it yesterday)

 

If it's burning oil, the smoke would have a blue tint to it. You mentioned that the steam was like coolant? Can you smell coolant in the steam? It could be a headgasket compromised where a water jacket is, so the coolant is getting drawn into the combustion chamber and steaming off. You should be able to find one of these local, and it's a quick/cheap test to check if any combustion gases are getting into the coolant passages.

$38 Block Tester BT-500 Head Gasket Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF?smid=A1810GNA3P38E9&gQT=1

 

Damn

 

No coolant, the smoke is only coming from the valve cover/PVC. No loss of coolant, no visible lost oil, runs hard like always.

Only performance loss has been mpg for over 6 months. It's been down to 5mpg last several tanks.

I'm doing compression and leakdown this afternoon. (Before I cange the oil)

 

Here's what it's doing, it got this bad 30 miles from home & I had people staring at me like it was shooting sparks, I cobbled it to route to the intake so I could get home.

https://vimeo.com/1041533031?share=copy

No crap on the oil cap.

 

That's a lot of escaping combustion, most likely pushing past your rings or piston ring lands on one or more holes. I had the same thing on my tacoma piston #4, I got lucky and only needed a light hone and a rebuild, fingers crossed.

 

That happened on my LS and 2JZ when they blew the ring lands. Would still run fine, but tons of blowby and the PCV looked like a tea kettle blowing shit out

 

ow

 

Did it get worse after you ran the cleaner in the oil?

 

It is a bit better since the cleaner went in.

It was just the 30 miles. I'm getting a few things done around the house, will start about 1.

 

Definitely seems like a ring issue

 

When you say stock pump, do you mean Toyota OEM pump or the upgraded pump that comes with the Magnusson kit? Pump with Mag kit is designed to run with Mag 2650 in original configuration.

 

Sorry to see the blowby @e30cabrio how many miles on that engine?

As far as fuel pumps go I would not install the magnuson pump and I’d just spend the extra $190 on the deatschwerks 300c pump to future proof your fuel needs to 600whp and only do the fuel pump install one time.

 

It's got 1435xx.

Im almost ready to get into the tests

 

One that comes in the kit. Honestly I skimmed over it since I don't even have a truck right now and didn't realize the kit came with a larger pump.

How bad of an idea is it to put a supercharger on a higher mileage Tundra with about 150k miles, 2015+? I could afford the S/C right away if I spent less on a truck but generally that means 130-150k miles on what I'm looking for. I'm only going to buy with carfaxes showing routine maintenance such as proper OCI's even though that's not a sure fire way to guarantee anything but it's better then nothing.

I know the 5.7's are pretty decent if taken care of but is it that much better to spend 5-7k more and get a lower mileage truck and then put the S/C on in a bit?

 

Lots of tundras with higher mileage and blowers

 

As long as the general maintenance(oil/atf)has been kept up should be good. @snivilous has 300k on his and others with low mileage, 150k.

 

Anyone ever use an external magnetic atf filter? Pros/cons? Supposed to not obstruct flow.

 

This does not look good for the rings, sorry to see this @e30cabrio .

 

Last piece to the puzzle arrived! Lsd is stout as shit. Now the easy part, installing all this crap

 

It's a valve on cylinder 1, good compression from the bottom end, leak down loses 100% on cylinder 1. I'll be dropping it off tomorrow to have both heads done

 

Nice find. At least it avoids pulling the engine and a tear down.

 

Awesome. Compared to my Auburn this thing blows it away. I haven't done anything on dry pavement but it rips on the wet stuff and can get away from you.

 

I had the original Mag pump and injectors. With a custom tune, I pretty much hit the limit of both. I upgraded to the DW pump and injectors. Not a bad job to redo but if I had known, I would have done it from the beginning.

 

I would say go for it. I wouldn’t be concerned about the mileage. I think the consensus would be to upgrade your valve body regardless if you want the trans to last.

I installed my 2650 at 165 and the motor runs like a champ. 178 now and healthy as can be