Towing question

With my 21 Tundra SR5 Crew Cab (5.7) it appears when towing my light weight RV (3200/4000 lbs) that no WDH or sway bar is needed. Do others tow similar using the stock set up without issues. I have air bags if needed but otherwise running single straight bar and ball.

My kids bought me a WDH but as its a 10K / 1K tongue unit its way greater than my needs with an guestimated tongue weight of around 400-500lbs. Not looking to have something too stiff that bends a weak point.

 

Yeah, that's a frame bender. Did they purchase it from a RV dealer? If so, see if they will exchange it for a much lighter duty WDH. Use the tactic of them being irresponsible bordering on dangerous sales tactics.

 

I am pretty sure manual stays tow up to 5k is fine, then above 5k lbs use a WDH. You will be fine for 3000-4000lbs.....heck I used to pull that much with my 06 4runner no WDH.

As far as airbags, I would suggest you look into RAS- activesuspension.com. RAS helps support the weak Tundra leafs, helps with towing, hauling, sag but will not hurt the ride like airbags or an AAL. You will want the HD version for the Tundra, not the standard.

I run RAS and it does everything they say it does. Great addition and cost is minimal, easy install too.

 

My previous trailer was about 4500 lbs loaded and I used a WDH, but it was also pretty heavy on the tongue weight - 750 pounds or so.

I use 1k bars with my current trailer which is about 850 on the tongue. If your trailer is in the 500lb range, then I would agree that 1k bars are too much.

 

You are correct - a WDH is not required for that trailer weight. Some like to use a WDH that that has sway control built in, even for a light weight trailer, but the truck should handle it just fine without. I wouldn't consider a 10k/1k WDH overkill for the truck, just for that trailer. Personally, I wouldn't (and don't) use one for a trailer that size.

I'd suggest hitching up the trailer and taking it for a test drive. Make sure the weight is well distributed with weight biased toward the front of the trailer.

 

I have a 2021 Tundra Limited and we pull the 2021 Forest River WolfPup. Dry weight says it's 3000lbs. I have never scaled it but would be willing to bet it is heavier than that. Anyway, I have pulled it short distances without our WDH. The difference when using it vs not using it is NIGHT AND DAY different.

 

How, and what set up are you using??

 

Equalizer 4 Point Sway Control. They are all pretty expensive anymore and I would consider this brand on the lower end side but with our TT being on the lighter side I couldn't justify $3K on a Hensly or one of the other high dollar brands.

 

I pull a 3800 dry / about 4100 to 4300 when camping and don’t use one. We go out at least once a month. Never have any sway or issues. Rear sits about 1 inch above level with 550 tongue and stock TRD package suspension.

 

Model#?

 

I use a simple Fastway E2 WDH. Does a great job of getting me back to level and has good sway control.

 

I'll second the Fastway E2. Just take the time to read the manual and adjust it properly. Don't depend on a dealer to do it. I'd suggest the 6,000/600# model.

$395 Fastway e2 2-Point Sway Control Round Bar Hitch, 94-00-0600, 6000 Lbs Trailer Weight Rating, 600 Lbs Tongue Weight Rating, Weight Distribution Kit Includes Standard Hitch Shank, Ball NOT Included

https://www.amazon.com/Fastway-94-0...eywords=fastway+e2+6000&qid=1734726121&sr=8-1

 

Curt WDH was sold. I was looking at the Anderson WDH type which has no bars, just chains that tighten up and it looks like so there is no issue backing up from what I can see. There are also many other knock offs of the design who's patent I guess expired. Anyone use this set up type?

 

The bars are better because they act as stability control as well. Chains are an older design.

 

I use an Anderson for my travel trailer. It works well and is, IMO, more comfortable to tow with than a spring bar type WDH. The ball shank is captured in a type of cone clutch that provides stability and resistance to sway; the heavier the tongue weight, the more pressure on the friction material, the more sway control. But it doesn't interfere with normal operation while turning, both going forwards or in reverse. It can make a little noise when turning, especially when cold, but most hitches make some noise when turning. No problems backing up either.

I've been happy with mine. I've used it on two different trailers and four different vehicles with satisfactory results. Just pulled my camp trailer 200 miles through a blizzard and had zero issues with the hitch. Looked like this when I got home...

 

We're set up pretty similar. Our trailer Winnebago Hike 3340/4200 with tongue weight at 420. Truck SR5 with bags and TRD sway bar on stock springs and shocks. I remember reading in the manual somewhere the truck has a nose down attitude to compensate for towing which is true as the truck and trailer are completely level when connected with only 5psi (standard operating pressure) in the bags. We ran without weight distribution or sway control for 3 years without any issues, the trailer tracks straight as an arrow until one day we ran into high cross winds. Since then we added Reese friction sway control kit which is an easy set up. We normally cancel camping trips if winds are forecasted over 30-40 mph but sometimes you can get caught out on the way back.

 

I use their No-Sway hitch on my camper and on my car trailer, my parents also use one on their Airstream. Works very well.

 

I've only ever used an Andersen so I don't have any real frame of reference to compare, but I'm SUPER happy with my Andersen.

If I had a huge trailer and needed to transfer a shit-ton of weight I might go with bars, but for most normal sized trailers they transfer plenty of weight.

The light weight and ease of setup/hitch/unhitch a big plus, and the built-in sway control is incredible. There's been days when I'm towing and completely forget that it's windy as shit until we stop to let the dogs out for a potty break and the wind almost rips the door outta' my hand.

 

Well. In reference to the front end I raised mine to make the truck level soon after purchase. When I towed the new camper home, empty on a regular ball all was level. I will look into the sway control though when I drove home on a 2 hour highway drive at regular speed with no issues.
I noticed there are a lot of copies of the Andersen WDH on sites like Ebay for around $200. Anyone try these?

 

Hmmm, I had not seen those before. Just looked and they certainly do look like an exact knock0off of an Andersen.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3263395948...z/nhCOWeqBuaKhDcSuTErCTE4=|tkp:Bk9SR9i0jeCBZQ

My biggest question/concern (aside from structural integrity of course) would be if they got the friction cone and urethane bushings right.

 

Think I might just go with 1 or two sway kits to start

 

One thing I will say about when I got the WDH, my trailer developed much better manners.

I did the first few camping trips on just a ball, and sometimes my truck and trailer made it very clear that they were two separate objects hooked together. Bridge seams, concrete to pavement joints, etc.

There's a stretch of freeway (52 in Kearney Mesa for those of you who know San Diego) that's built over an old portion of landfill, and as things decompose the pavement develops dips. They'll recompact/repave but every 5 years or so it becomes a roller coaster.
Towing through there the truck and trailer would start fighting each other, one wanting to bounce up while the other is going down.

When I put the Andersen on it quieted that down MUCH quicker and started feeling like one cohesive unit.

 

I have the same concerns as @SD Surfer and would add to the list metallurgy: Andersen put a lot of R&D into developing their hitches, including hiring engineers and running metallurgical testing to ensure their products would meet (and exceed) their performance and safety standards. Aluminum has a plethora of alloys some of which are well suited to a towing environment, some of which are not.

I’d spend the extra couple hundred dollars for a unit I know far exceeds a minimum safety standard when it comes to a couple of tons of mobile shot put in my rear view. My experience with knock offs is that they ALWAYS cut corners somewhere.

The Andersen hitches are solid units. My rapid hitch has around 140k miles on it, probably a third of that towing. It is worn and beat up, but hasn’t skipped a beat.

I agree with this 100%. It not only distributed the weight but dampens the motion between the truck and trailer.

 

I agree, try it first and see if you feel you need it. You likely don’t.
I have an open and an enclosed car trailer, I only use a WDH on the enclosed trailer. I have thousands of miles towing the open trailer with no WDH and never had any issues.