General Supercharger Thread

Those that purchased the speedmaster lsd. Got word from their tech that Lucas 85-140 gl5, conventional-mineral- oil is good to go for their torque worm LSD. No synthetics with friction modifiers are to be used. Send a DM with email and I'll fwd the info for warranty.

Edit: A synthetic oil they will warranty is the Lucas Racing sae 140.

 

Thanks @Mdl for keeping us in the loop you the man!

 

Yes sir will do.

 

That's awesome insight! I wish I had cryo treated and REM polished mine, but that was 3 years ago and this level of discussion just wasn't really happening at the time.

Nitro's instructions (video remains here: https://youtu.be/3z5WLvqjJtg) spoke about heat, but from an oil breakdown perspective, not so much the metals themself. All of the other major players (ECGS, Yukon, Revolution, and even Motor Trend) talk about the overall same 500 mile, oil change, towing break in process, and they only talk about oil breakdown due to heat as well as washing away the fines and coatings, essentially saying after 500 miles, everything is settled in. Not much different than any other break in oil and the need to change it quickly.

The Google box talks about even REM processed gears benefitting from an initial heat cycle/break in process, and a 500 mile oil change, regardless.

I'll be curious to hear how it all works out for you all. If anyone has an IR thermometer, it would be interesting to see if there is a measurable temp difference between the, assuming the break in processes could be somewhat mirrored for the first 50 miles or so, and then maybe another test of the oils (even if just in appearance) at the 500 mile change.

 

I had to reduce my pinion shim for a 65 mph whine. I had about 40 miles on it when I re-shimmed the gears, at least the gears weren't pitted and looked like they were wearing into a smooth shine. Pinion/carrier bearings looked good. Having them REM polished is a good idea.

 

So, I’m not trying to turn this in to an oil debate, but I’m genuinely curious as to who is running the heavier weight oil and why. I’ve been told several different things by several different manufacturers/suppliers/builders/shops/enthusiats/armChairQuarterbacks. I was under the impression that carrier recommendations trump axle/bearing recommendations - meaning, the bearings don’t care what oil is in it as long as they have oil but the carrier does care and is more sensitive to it. Whether or not that includes ring and pinion or is exclusive to the carrier is unclear, but appears to side with the carrier and no the R&P.

I see a torsen type diff benefiting from a heavier oil to give it more bias, but if memory serves, HMMWV calls for straight 90 weight in their torsens. (No, I didn’t service them but was planning on doing so as part of a reserve unit; but life has a funny way of changing things for you). Also, HPL oils recommends 75w90 in virtually all private consumer applications, including 1 ton pickups and the like - limited slips included. (But to be frank, my truck did not like their oils..)

My two big hang ups with heavier oil weights are parasitic loss and viscosity in cold weather where they seem to turn in to concrete.

Again, not trying to debate it, just asking for more clarification on the matter.

 

Straight 250 weight like a racecar

 

Powertrax calls for 80w90. 140 seems like filling your diff with glue

 

Sensor and thread adapters for the transmission pressure port showed up. Guess I forgot to order a pigtail for the sensor…

 

Especially when you get to 0 deg. I know @bflooks runs 85-140 and he's in New England and it gets pretty cold. Although I have the speedmaster in I'm breaking my gears in with 80w/90. It all comes down to torque bias and sae140 giving it the most benefit. I tried asking if the speedmaster torque worm lsd was developed for race/offroad applications as it states ep140 or higher mineral oil. But no answer.
Just like some using synthetic and friction modifiers in the powertrax grip pro where you lose some of the bias from the loss of friction. Another speedmaster user is using 75/90 and it's operating normally. I just wanted people to know for warranty purposes. If I were in a cold climate I'd probably run 90w. Run what your comfortable doing.

 

I just scheduled my gears with Zuk. I'll have to ask what oil he recommends.

 

He told me to run 80w/90 and do a long break in as they were not REM'd. He thought the straight 140 was too thick for breaking in the gears in winter. I figured I'm not doing burnouts or anything that will require the limits of the lsd and shouldn't be detrimental to its function.

 

Up here in Manitoba where it frequently gets down to -30°C, sometimes even -40°C in winter, I can feel the resistance from the gear oil when cold. Takes a while of driving for the oil to warm up and the resistance to go away. I always wonder if those bearings are even getting oil for the first while lol. I usually run 75-90 synthetic but I'll be installing a grip pro after the holidays so looks like I'll be switching to 80-90 conventional... not really looking forward to that for winter but oh well. Makes me wonder how bad the 85-140 would be in my climate!

 

Pfft, lame! Haha. That's the first thing I'm doing once my grip pro is in! (Well, sideways in the snow until summer, then burnouts lol)

 

Well if I wasn't breaking in gears I'd be sideways and burning rubber...
Another reason to REM polish the gears.

 

I think the 85-140 has 9 deg F for the pour point. But are used in much lower temps. Think of all those heavy dump trucks/ machinery up north running that heavy stuff. I think they recommend 85-140 for the way the helical worm gears are setup like a Strange rear Lsd. As they recommend 85-140 for some of theirs. Something about shear point/friction/preload/torque bias blah blah blah...
I think one would be safe using valvoline/mobile conventional than Lucas. Even though ECGS likes Lucas. Who knows.

 

The oil debate(s) is pretty funny. I'm watching everyone else's experience on this one. Science is progressing and I wouldn't be upset about gaining a MPG back, especially if it proves to be without any negative impact to the investment. Like the wife's Sienna running 0w-16, if I can run a lighter oil and somehow, miraculously, not impact durability and reliability, I'm game.

EDIT: I'm talking about lighter than 85w-140 for aftermarket gears. Engine oil was for example only.

 

I've replaced rear bearings on Toyota trucks many times. The wheel bearings are lined with grease and sealed as well as there is seal around the axle. I don't think oil is supposed to get to the wheel bearing.

 

Round 2, Transmission Update #2
Truck shipped to Level10 on 12/9. They pulled the trans on 12/10, all looked good. Replaced the valve body and all solenoids, replaced the torque converter (cut open old to see if it was having any issues), and put it all back together. First drive.... driving terrible, same issues. Level10's Pat Barett spoke to a few of the Tuners/Teachers over at HP Tuners and they advised a reflash back to OEM. So they flashed the OEM Stock Tune back on the truck. Waited a bit (did not drive it) and then flashed by tune with Sniv's edits for engine tuning, and my edits for the trans torque table, and it seems to act normal. Smooth driving. They have some ice and snow on the roads so he can't really test it much as of 6am when he initially called on 12/12 to update me. Spoke to Level10 yesterday 12/17 and said the truck was running great, but hasn't put many miles on it with other things going on. Checked airtag this morning and saw he was driving the truck (yes, I threw and air tag in the truck this time, because it was shipped and I wanted to be able to track it. It's moderately accurate, at best, relying on other iphones to send data back. Great on the drive to and from the shop/my house but not as great when it's at the shop) followed by an email from Pat stating the truck is good. Tech dept just let me know I can expect the truck to be shipped back to me Thur or Fri. Can't wait to drive it with a functioning transmission... it's been too long. MTF

edit: Dispatcher called from towing company. They're all booked for 12/19 and will plan to deliver the truck 12/19 and pick it up from Level10 the night prior to be able to leave earlier in the morning for delivery. Should have the truck back by noon 12/19. Shaping up to be a great christmas after all...

 

I saw on BITOG site concerning oil debates: Over analysis paralysis...

 

So it is the Toyota WS that has caused the transmission issues as of late?

 

lol stoking the fire, eh?

 

Back to the offtopic already in progress:

Good news:

BLOCK!!!





Bad news manufacturer is being difficult, refuses anything sooooo I initiated a chargeback on the entire kit, sent him a screenshot of the email commemorating it & emailed them with take it back, give me 2k, I don't care.

He responded with restocking fees and wanting the bad motor and for me to send my DME to be flashed back to stock. I said parts are needed & the rest belongs to the builder who is helping me even though none of this is his fault

The builder has been CC'd on all of these messages & heard enough, and sent this:

As far as the cost and the machining goes, I am helping as he paid me 6500 to build the initial S52 motor, but I need all the old parts back to put the new motor together. I machined a new block that I gave him for 400 which is less than half of the current 900 price range on eBay for all the stock S52 used blocks for sale. Machining was 600 for the next bore size of 86.60mm. The reason why I didn’t use his current block is to avoid the shipping plus I did not know how bad the scoring and burn penetrated through. The head got so hot in the middle where the detonations happened and may be warped, so I told him I won’t risk slapping the cylinder head as-is onto the new motor that’s why It will cost about 1000 to machine and rebuild it again. I am disassembling the head and I have to assemble the new motor which I am not asking any penny for the engine labor again cause I am a stand up guy and truly understand Stefan’s situation and feel bad for him. Again the $2000 I asked him does not even cover all the new forged internals he bought plus his time to drive from Phoenix to Los Angeles to pickup the new motor and the hassle to install it back onto the car.

That initiated a back & forth with me saying I'm done arguing, you can send 2k, or I'll ship it back & take the chargeback. No block, no restocking & posts of the entire year long nightmare posted on every BMW forum I can find, most I am a longtime member of. (if he sends the 2k)

He is the owner but said this:

Ok Stefan,

I will meet with the managers and get back to you

Misleading to the end.

I really do not care at this point which way the wind blows.

 

JFC...
Hope that fucker stubs his toe every day for the rest of his life

 

Me too!

He had the nerve to say he didn't care if I posted on the older BMW forums as he is discontinuing this kit, I said You were paid for this kit & need to support it, I will be posting to the newer BMW forums as well so I fail to see how that matters. The kits for the late model cars are over 10 fucking K!!!

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-397305-e9x-rotrex-generation-2-level-3-supercharger-kit/

oops, did I slip on the manufacturer?

lol

 

It's a bummer that he's responding that way. Hope he comes through for you

lol
I ran AA on my e46 m3 years ago. Was very happy with the setup. Also through turner no less

 

I'm glad you had no issues, for my Z3 it's been really bad, delivery time was supposed to be 2 weeks, it was closer to 9, it was missing several parts & had wrong parts, they made me buy the missing parts & wait to get the wrong one back before sending the right one. The SC routing silicon did not fit, (they insisted it did) I had to buy ones I figured out how to fit, the tensioner did not keep the belt(s) on, I had to find a different (hydraulic) tensioner & belt 3 sizes smaller one belt & different tensioner at a time, every tune revision took begging to get. Nightmare!

 

Be curious what they settled on for your optimum trans torque table. Or any further insight on what level10 wants to adjust parameters in hpt and if hpt will give more tables.

 

Level10 left my table alone from my edits. Said it ran perfect. I can share that with you guys this this weekend once I have my mpv3 back

it’s like 1.5x in the first column, then gradual gain (.1 increase per column) until 25 tps where it flatlines at 1.9x the table through max tps.

 

I had previously adjusted the trans torque table and engine torque when I first installed my GM 103mm TB. I ran that and when I also went to the GM 95mm TB.
I went back to TRD values when @snivilous adjusted the airload.
I did recently adjust torque trans up 1.15 to play around with it again. Little steps...