Replacing door speakers (2017 TRD PRO Tundra)

Need some recommendations on some speakers I've looked at online. My current setup is JL Audio stealthbox, OEM lower door speakers, OEM twitters in read door(I plan on replacing these with C2-650 soon.) Front has JL Audio 2 Way 6x9 and Kenwood 2.75" in the dash. The front is wired in parallel, powered by a JL Audio JD400. With this setup, I'm guessing the 2.75 dash speakers are getting around 50w RMS, while the 6x9 2 way is having to split the 50w RMS between the 2 speakers. Thus, my the dash speakers are overpowering the lower door speakers.

I want to get a 3 way component system, to equally distribute the power and for better overall sound. It was also move my twitters from the lower door, and I will install them on the upper panels. I also get that I will lose a little bit of juice from the amp going from 2ohm to 4ohm. So, hopefully it won't be too noticeable. If it is, I'll just get a better amp eventually.

I'm a huge JL Audio fan, and I hate that they do not have a 3way component system available to purchase. So, I will need to find another great brand that isn't too expensive. Or, I've even thought about buying a 2 way component JL audio setup like the C2 650, and getting their 2.75" dash speakers and buying a 3way crossover to connect them to. Or just go with the path of least resistance and try out this speaker combo I found:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-203310-Kicker-KSS369-51KSS369.html

I'm guessing someone out there has already done what I've plan on doing. Any great recommendations? Any regrets? Or is my current setup fine and I'm just over thinking is?

 

This is the reason I disconnected all 3 dash speakers.
I tried several combinations and they were always too 'in your face'.
Even when I ran them off the HU with the door speakers amped.
The dash speakers aren't needed with a decent set of 2-way components in the front doors..IMHO

I'm running Focal PS 165 FXE Performance Series 6-1/2" bi-amplified component speaker system at Crutchfield in my front doors with the tweeter in a JBL door sail..


Running them off an Alpine PDX V9


For me, it provides an excellent sound stage with no dash speakers.
I put my Focal crossovers in the door.
But if I had it to do over again, I'd mount them under the passenger seat closer to the amp.



And since my homemade MDF spacers started to absorb moisture, I'm using Taco Tunes adapters.


Good luck..

 

Jl used to make a 3 way passive components (JL c5-653 i think) but they used a 4" midrange driver so it might be tough to get it to fit in the dash corner (2.5" fits perfectly). You might be able to find some used or sitting on a shelf at a shop.

Morel and focal make nice 3 way passive components. I haven't heard anything about the kicker setup, they seem pretty inexpensive.

If you want to go down the active/dsp route, audiofrog makes some really nice active components. Their GS line is pretty affordable and sound very good (thats what i run).

 

Currently using Alpine R 6x9 components in the front doors with no dash speakers.

Really looking at the Audio Frog GS 6x9 with 2.5” dash speaker. Would be great if I could do this with passive crossovers, as I’m not too wild about adding another amplifier and active crossover equipment…. That turns new front speakers into an investment that is well over a grand. Not sure I want it that bad…

 

Audiofrog sells crossovers separately although I don't see any listed specifically for use with the GS 6x9's. For the same price as a pair of Audiofrog passive crossovers ($229), DS18 has a new small DSP that would be a nice cheap alternative: DS18 DSP4.8BTM Digital sound processor with Bluetooth® control — 4-channel in, 8-channel out at Crutchfield

Not sure what the rest of your system looks like/what amp you have, but if you're happy with the Alpines, you could add a pair of Audiofrog GS25 ($269) or GB25 ($500) in the dash corners and run new wiring to them, get that DS18 DSP or an even cheaper option like the Dayton DSP408 and have a fully active front stage for under $500 depending on what amp you have.

Do you have the JL C1 6x9 2 ways up in the front door or the JL C2 3 way 6x9's in front? Unfortunately no matter which way you go with JL, they do not make a 3 way set like you said and therefore they don't make a 3 way passive crossover. You can connect speakers to any crossovers in theory, but in practice would be better to just go fully active and get a DSP if you're set on going 3 way JL. If you're not set on 3 way JL, some other 3 way sets with passive crossovers I'd look into depending on budget are Morel Maximo Ultra 603 MKII ($479, 100w RMS @ 4 ohms), Focal Performance 165AS3 ($579, 80w RMS @ 4 ohms) and the list goes on and up in price from there.

If you want to stick with JL, I personally have had the C2 6.5" components and thought they sounded great. I wouldn't hesitate to buy them again. In your situation, I think you'd be more than happy with JL C2 6.5" components in both the front and rear doors. They are rated at 60w RMS @ 4 ohms, and your JD400 does 75w @ 4 ohms. I'm assuming you're using the factory wiring for everything? If so/unless you want to run new wiring, I would use factory wiring from your JD400 to the front door, use the adapters and cut the terminals off so you have bare wire ends, and then use that for input into the crossover (mounted in door, I know a lot of people will say to never do this for various reasons like doors being shut, harder to access etc. but I've anecdotally done it/seen it done a lot and been fine), and then run short lengths of new wire from the crossover to the woofer and tweeter which you could cut holes in your sail panels or buy the JBL equipped Tundra sail panels for ~$20 a side. For the rear, same thing, factory wiring from amp to rear door, cut the ends off the adapter for input into your crossover, new wiring from crossover to woofer and tweeter. I would repurpose the kenwoods in the dash and the JL 6x9's you currently have in the front doors into a DIY boombox or something. I currently run a 2 way Focal front stage and having had the JL C2 6.5" front stage in the past, I think you'd be more than happy with it. If you really wanted to make your front stage 3 way, get a pair of Audiofrog GS25's to drop in the dash corners.

If you decide to go 3 way active front stage, that opens up more possibilities but also much higher cost/time invested.

 

Interesting, so with a good 2 way set. The sound quality without the mid range driver still sounded good. I may have to consider that as well.. Although, never thought about using the HU for the dash speakers. I may try that with the 2 way components and see which one I like the most. Thanks for the information!

 

I have the C1 6x9 2 way coaxial in the front. I'm definitely looking at the C2 6.5" for both the front and rear doors. Right now, my JD400 is mounted underneath my passenger seat with new wiring running from there to the speakers in each door. So, in theory, I could just mount the 4 passive crossovers underneath the seat with the Amp and connect the 8 sets of speaker wires running from the doors to those crossovers and do a very short run from each channel on the amp to the crossovers. If there is enough room underneath the seat, and without it looking like crap. Don't think I want to spend the time and money on an active front stage. Don't think I'm there yet, lol.

As far as the Kenwoods in the dash. As 1lowlife has stated, he used the HU to power the dash speakers with the C2 6.5's being amped powered. If it doesn't sound right. I could always just pop the dash speakers out and disconnect them. I'm willing to try that, as I feel the Kenwoods do sound pretty good in the dash. Although, going from Amp to HU.. lose a little bit of juice.

 

The OEM wiring gives a dash speaker feed from the HU.
It goes to the sides and straight to the dual coil center speaker.
I was lazy when I had my first aftermarket HU installed years ago and that is how they wiried it.

But I've tried a few variations including James 12volts side speakers (can't remember who made them I think JL Audio) and his twin JLAudio center tweeters.


As well when I had a JBL MS-8 sound processor and installed a 4" Focal for the center channel.



But I never did get a decent calibration out of the MS-8 despite amping very speaker in the truck.
I sold it and the buyer said it worked great...


I'm no audiophile, I just wanted decent sound and those Focals in the front doors gave it to me with the Alpine 5-channel amp.
Any attempt to make the dash speakers usable was a failure.

Now there are some guys with 3-ways components.
They put the mids in the side dash speaker spot with the tweeters in the door sails.

 

Ok. After more consideration, I’ve drawn up a plan in my head…

Currently have:
Kicker CXA 360.4 (65W x 4)
Alpine R Series 6x9 component fronts
Alpine RnSeries 6.5 coaxial rears
Kicker CXA 800.1 with a single 12” sub

Purchase the following:
Audio Control DM810
4-channel amp (100-125W per channel). Looking at Audio Control LC 4.800.
Audio Frog GS690 and GS25.

My thoughts:
All outputs from my JVC HU go into the DSP.
Use the existing 65W x 4 for the GS25 in the dash and tweeters in the door sails. May replace the Alpine tweeters.
Use the new 125W x 4 for the GS690 front door and the 6.5” coax rear doors.
Keep the sub as it is, but use the new DSP before the amp.

Doors are already deadened.
All amps and DSP would be mounted on new rack at rear wall behind passenger rear seat.
I currently have a 4ga power feeding both Kicker amps. Guessing I may need to upsize this when I add another 500W to the ordeal.

I’m open to suggestions. My install guy gets nice pricing on Audio Control, which is why I’m leaning that way for the DSP and amplifier. I’ll have to pay full price for the new speakers. I’m also fine with replacing the Alpine tweeters with some GS10 but think it’s worth trying my existing first.

Are there any enclosures available for the 6x9 in the front door? I’m trying to add a lot of strength to my mid-bass as well as presence to my front stage. My current system gets plenty loud, but I want more impact up front. Drums need to hit harder, etc.

 

A very nice set that sounds great is the infinity kappa 6x9 or 6.5 component set and add the infinity 203s. This is a drop in set in every location. 6x9/6.5 in the doors, 203s in dash corners, (fits like a glove) and the tweets drop into the factory tweet bracket.
The 203 is an addition to the 2 way and you can use the passive network for the entire set.
They really sound nice and are reasonably priced.
Super detailed and not harsh at all.

just another alternative. Also they are having crazy sales on them right now. I have been tempted to grab a 5.25 component set to through in the back doors because they are so cheap right now.

 

Might be worth looking into, but I’m really liking the idea of an active crossover and DSP for this. From my reading, it sounds like the dash speakers may benefit from some adjustment to overcome some window loading.

Have you had an opportunity to compare the Infinity and Audio Frog speakers side by side? A big part of what I’m looking for is the mid-bass performance that the AF 6x9 is reported to have.

Also curious how the Kappa set compares to my R Series components.

 

So if your thinking active a change is in order. I have heard af gear and it is nice and sounds great. However, I would not say it’s way better than infinity by any means with a dsp involved.
However if you want midbass the only one I would consider,( and I have them in my doors) is the stereo integrity tm8. The stereo integrity tm65 and the af 60 have been compared a lot. One likes one and one likes the other. However the tm8 is a massive step up from either.

I’m running the tm8, infinity kappa 203s and infinity kappa 753t tweets and I love the set up. I am using a minidsp 8x12dl but I don’t have a tune on it yet and just with crossovers and level adjusted it sounds great.

I love stereo integrity gear but I don’t want to cut up or modify and this truck. I don’t want to cut up the dash or sail panels. the tm8 fit like a glove with adapters from sounds good audio.

The dsp makes a bigger difference than the speakers. I personally can’t justify the cost of af equipment but many love it.

I have always loved the sound signature of infinity since the mid 80s.

but again if going active you have a ton of options. I just think the af is not worth the cost for a three way. At least for me. I would rather spend the money on a great dsp and sound deadening.

 

Thanks for that reply! Starting at the end first, I’m already dialed in with deadening. We did all four doors last summer. And since I’ve already got two amps, I’ll only need to buy one (plus the DSP) when I go active.

You 100% have my attention when you mention 8” mid-bass… I haven’t looked at anything to determine how tough it is to go 8” drivers in my 2018 front doors yet. But, I’ll start looking!

Maybe a good place to start might be to break this into a couple steps.

Step one:
Add DSP and third amp.
Add mids in dash.
See if it does what I want with tuning and all the new added power. My stereo guy has RTA and a pile of other stuff that I’m not fully up to speed with, but he is…


Step two:
Replace my 6x9 and tweeters if I want more and retune.

 

Ok. Just did a 90 minute deep dig on TM8s and some other stuff. Super cool!

Still gonna hold myself to just my step one first. See how that shakes out before piling more money on it!

 

I have 2 4 channel amps and a mono amp.

one four channel is under the passenger seat with the dsp.
The second four channel is in the consol and the mono amp is under the driver seat.

just for information. The tm8 will fit in the doors with no modification just a standard speaker bracket. Sounds good stereo has them and the fit perfectly.

As you suggested if you already have speakers the best thing is to get a solid tune and go from there.

but get a good dsp and you will be set.

I have a Dayton dsp in my daughter’s car and it’s fine for her. It takes more work to get right than my minidsp but it sounds really nice.
Helix and minidsp 8x12 dl are solid contenders.

I like the minidsp with Dirac because I can get an amazing tune very quickly. The helix requires more knowledge and effort but still an awesome dsp. I may eventually try one if my minidsp ever dies.

that being said, I actually ran my set up without the 12 inch subs while I waited for my sub amp to come in. I ordered it and then Helene came and tore up the east coast. So I just turned the tm8s loose in the doors and let them play from 80hz down and I seriously considered not using the subs behind the seat anymore.

but sounds like your on the right track.

a good place to start with tuning is the audio frog one seat tuning guide. Lots of great info and a relatively easy way to get a great tune using rew and a mic.

rew is a free program to get eta and auto tuning eq.

then get a good mic and your all set. I got a minidsp umik that was calibrated to 5hz from cross spectrum. Coat about $75.

I’m sure you have a laptop already.

then choosing a house curve that you want to use and then start measuring.

 

Some places still have the JL Audio 3-way setup for sale. Here are a couple:

 

Ok. More time thinking about this between football games.

I’ve been driving around for the last couple days without any rear fill. I just ran my fader full front, to see if I really need the rears or if I just think I do. I don’t miss the rears at all when they’re shut off. So, this has me rethinking. Would love your thoughts…

Rather than 8 channels for an active 3-way front and coax rears, I simplify things a bit by using an Audio Control D-6.1200 for the fronts. It can just replace my CXA-360.4 and leaves me with two amps under the seats. I will run the rears off my HU when I have passengers back there.

The D-6.1200 should give me enough DSP opportunity for all 6 front channels, as well as the pre-amp outputs for the sub amp that I already have.

I’ll have my active 3-way front, rear fill when wanted, and DSP. This all fits in the spaces I have, and will keep costs down a bit.

You guys think I’m on a decent track by putting the DSP and amp in a single package? I realize it means a more expensive replacement if something dies, but is there any other good reason to not use a single unit?

 

Just buy a Helix amp with built-in DSP. Use Audiofrog speakers.

 

Bingo.