Bare metal temporary coating

I put duct tape on the back side window of my AC to seal it until I could get the closing latch fixed. I replaced the latch and pulled the duct tape off, and when I did it pulled some pretty big pieces of paint off near the window...all the way down to the metal. I have ordered a spray touch-up kit from Automotivetouchup.com.What can I use to coat the metal to keep it from oxidizing before I get it repaired? I thought about wd-40, but the internet says it could cause some issues with the paint. Im also worried about it leaving a layer of oily stuff that would interfere with adhesion of the new paint. The repair kit I ordered does come with a cleaning solvent that would hopefully remove any oils.

Any ideas of what to use for a temporary coating or covering? Is this even something I should worry about? The kit should be here in a week or a bit more.

I'm also going to have to get creative to make a plastic tent and heater around the repair area to keep the temperature in the 70 degree Fahrenheit range when I apply the paint. I don't have an indoor area where I can do the work, and it's cold here in KY right now.

Thanks for any advice.

 

Need pics, seriously. Cannot give advice without seeing what you're dealing with.

 

Wow, I never heard of that. Is that the perils of having a color without a clear coat? That sucks, man.

 

Paducah? Shiiiiiit, I'm your neighbor from about 1.5 hours away! (East of you)

Slather some fucking lard (grease) on it, and call it good! Wipe it off, and clean with alcohol before painting once supplies show up

 

I was gonna talo(?) or some silicone based grease

but also in my head, I'm 90% sure the prep you're gonna have to do to get the paint to stick well would get rid of any rust?

 

Go to Napa and get a spray bomb of gray primer. The area will need to be primed anyway and it will protect the bare metal for a week, no problem. Those automotive primers seem to be compatible with most, if not all top coats. When I was painting M/C parts, I used it all the time for small parts to avoid mixing a cup of primer. Don't put anything oily or greasy on it, you'll get fisheyes up the ass when you apply any paint.

 

Can do, I will post a pic tomorrow.

 

Maybe? It also may have had aftermarket paint on this same side of the vehicle many years before I bought it. Carfax said there was some left side damage due to a deer, but I don't know how far back the damage went. The left side paint is less oxidized than the rest of the truck, and looks great...well at least until i pulled pieces of it off with tape.

 

I've used Rust-oleum "high performance enamel" fast dry (14 oz rattle can) grey primer, then their fast dry high performance enamel gloss white (15oz rattle can). The gloss white is pretty darn close to the white on my truck. I've never ever been impressed with buying color matched paint online. It's usually ten shades off of what my trained eye is looking at. Don't be spraying any sort of oil on the bare metal, otherwise you'll be cleaning it off for a long time before you'll want to attempt to paint.

 

Epoxy primer/metal etch primer is always a good idea when painting bare metal surfaces.

 

While we wait, I can offer this advice sight unseen...NO SILICONE. Do NOT use anything that contains silicone if you expect paint to adhere afterward.

 

I wouldn't use anything with silicone or oil, personally, unless you plan to go down to bare metal across the entire panel. Good oil gets up under everything and will get under the edge of the remaining painted area.

WD40 is one of the most classic no-nos. That's the shady car salesman trick. One can of WD40 can make paint look f'n showroom glossy when a car is coated, just like silicone can. Hides all scratches. The minute you run it thru a carwash, it looks like ass, and if you try to paint over that panel, you're asking for orangepeel.

 

Grease jk

 

KENTUCKY JELLY!

 

Mud muscle mucus

 

How about cussing? I did plenty of that!

 

Got the pictures.

 

Ouch. Yeah. Never use duct tape on paint. If you do, heat it up before removal and peel slowly. I normally recommend people to use clear packing tape instead.

I can’t tell if you took it down to base primer, or if that’s bare metal. White has a base primer and is single stage over that for our trucks, from the factory. And I don’t know how to check, frankly, easily. I’d need to look it up. I believe our trucks used a grey epoxy primer on the bare metal. But that sucks. The ultimate “solution” here is to repaint the entire rear door. And if you’re concerned about rust, you can literally topcoat with anything, but you’ll be hard pressed to find an exact match. The rear door is actually pretty easy to replace, and it should be simple to find a replacement Limited door using car-part.com or similar. White ones are fairly common and I do see Limited part outs frequent enough that I consider it… (you can’t have mine)

 

I wish now I had thought to look more closely at the underside of the paint that peeled off to see what color it was. Can't remember if it was grey or white on the underside.

 

I'm going to try the touch-up spray and see how that looks. If it looks bad I may have to go with the door replacement route.

I've used touch-up from this company before, and have been happy with the results, but never on such a large area.

 

The proper way to fix this looks like removing the wing window and weather strip mouldings and sanding smooth then feather priming. After that it can be hit with a sealer and finally top coat the whole door. It's a 1 day fix if have all the tools and supplies and take the door off.

Do you have a compressor with 6-10 cfm? Just saw the harbor freight gun on sale for literally $9.99 that along with a filter on the hose (and one for your respiration) would make quick work of this. Your auto paint store can sell you a rattle can of etching primer and a quart of topcoat and maybe it calls for a clear too? Some folks might buy an epoxy primer or a high build primer to aid with sanding a feathering and then just thin it to make the sealer (if they didn't want to buy ALL the products). Here's a pro using a HF gun to lay paint like silk.

Also suggest getting some wax and grease remover to clean before painting and keep silicone far away from paint jobs.

 

I can tell you with confidence, the AutomotiveTouchup paint for our trucks is the best I've found, but also not quite right. What I mean by that:

• I refinished and painted my Sports Grille using the Automotive Touchup rattle can, and you can see in THIS PICTURE, their white has almost a slight hint of tan in it than the factory paint HOWEVER, my other plastics (fender flares, OEM grille) had the same(ish) mismatch
• I have a similar looking spot on my door sill to your window, I was curious, and lightly misted the same rattle can on my door sill, and it looks overly white to me (pics below), but that was just a light mist so it wasn't absurdly stark grey. If you were to mist similarly in a few coats around your window it may pass the 5-10ft test?
• I use Automotive Touchup's jar of paint to touch up several other chips in my paint, and it looks similarly 'off' to the sports grill on spots (pics below). Now I notice, it looks like the that big fucker actually cracked on the outer edge. Guess I need to redo that one ...

Yes, I should take a tape-buffered flat razor to knock these flat, but they're protecting the paint just fine, and I've been unmotivated. Bigger fish to fry.

Whatever you do, if you go with Automotive Touchup, you will want the rattle can. I'd recommend using paint panel prep on the entire area, then 600->1000 grit paper to take down the edge of paint-to-no-paint, then panel prep again before lightly spraying.

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Yup, got the spray can, so hopefully it will at least look better than it does right now. I looked at the places where my paint peeled off, and it doesn't look like bare metal. I'm gonna wet sand it and try to smooth the edges of where the paint came off. Then lightly primer and then paint.

The kit comes with a clear coat spray can. Anybody have any advice on how to incorporate that into the repair since the paint on the truck is single stage? Could I spray white on and then a touch of clear while the white is still wet, and then repeat?

 

Your colors look pretty well matched, so there's hope.

 

I really don't know what to suggest on the clearcoat. Clearcoat on top of the factory single stage will eventually (I believe) come up. I'd spray a few misty coats of the rattle can (pre-prepping with panel prep, shaking properly, and following the can instructions on recoat window) over the area, let if fully dry, then assess. After 1-2 weeks of fully curing, realizing it'll probably continue to offgas for longer given how cold it is out, I'd reassess the situation.

Notice in my pic, I got the faintest overspray on my bulb seal for the door. Tape anything nearby you don't want to get overspray on. Tape newspaper, brown packing paper, whatever you have. Their rattle cans do a great job of atomizing paint, it WILL drift around.

 

I always used the 3-M tape I bought at the auto paint supply store for masking. It won't bleed and will come off easily and didn't take the surrounding paint with it. I haven't painted in quite a while though, I can't buy proper materials anymore. I never imagined that real solvent, gasoline, lacquer thinner, enamel reducer, and even paint thinner would be hard to come by.. At least around here, for awhile I had to get it from Nevada or Arizona, but it finally wore me down and I gave up most painting anymore.