2022 Tundra vs 2022 F-150 opinion?

Your tears are so salty.

 

this from a dude who trolls a Tundra forum, let me know when you trade it in for the Tundra?

You sure act really insecure for a Ford F150 truck owner. This thread needs to die or be removed, I have a feeling though that bannerdude would somehow stick around to tell us how much Tundra's suck and the F150 is the best ruck ever.

 

Replying to it a dozen times an hour is a good way to make sure it dies.

 

Didn't you say you were going to leave this thread? Why are you still here?

 

Well, it’s amusing to see so many Tundra haters on a Tundra forum.

When it comes to reliability, jokes aside, I’ve fixed many wrecked vehicles—both new and not so new—and from my experience, Ram is absolute garbage in terms of quality. Their parts and components are a total disaster, with trucks experiencing mechanical issues even with light use. Ford isn’t much better (though slightly better than Ram) with cheap, rust-prone components, glitchy electronics, and quickly wearing parts.

Nissan is also subpar—better than Ram and Ford but not by much. Their transmissions are unreliable, electronics can be glitchy, and some of their engineering choices are questionable. GM is a mixed bag, combining the flaws of these three brands but still managing to be better overall.

Toyota, however, stands out. Their components are high-quality (albeit pricey), and I’ve never encountered mechanical issues with any Toyotas I’ve rebuilt after accidents or owned personally or for my company. Over 20 vehicles—including FJ Cruisers, Tacomas, Tundras, Camrys, Corollas, RAV4s, Avalons, and Venzas—have been in my hands, and none of them let me down. No major breakdowns. The most significant issue I’ve had was a starter on a 2010 Tundra 5.7, which is inconveniently located in hard to reach place, but that’s it.

I can’t say the same for other brands:

Ram/Dodge/Chrysler: 100% failure rate. I don't even want to explain. I hate those! Horrible vehicles. If you buy one, get every extended warranty you can, you'll need it. ( I've had 1997 Ram, 2011 Ram, 2013 and 2015 Ram. Also one 2003 Dakota, 2ea newer Chrysler 300, Chrysler pt cruiser and neon)
Every single one of them had significant problems and eventually died and end up in junk yard.

Ford: About a 50% failure rate. Mostly mechanical.

Nissan: Similar to Ford, with about a 50% failure rate (based on my experience with two Titans, one Frontier, and one Murano).

GM: Generally better, but still problematic. I’ve owned a few Sierras, Silverados, and a Hummer H3. While they didn’t have major failures, they had plenty of annoying issues, mostly electrical (e.g., traction control, sensors, power and heated seats, bearings, alternators, etc.). I’d estimate a 15%-20% failure rate.

Toyota: By far the best, with a failure rate of around 5%. And most of those issues were with the most neglected very high mileage vehicles.


Regarding the 2023 Tundra, it still has strong and well-built mechanical components. I’m confident it will last 200,000 miles. My truck, built in mid-2023, is not subject to a recall, but even if it will be recalled I’m not worried, the odds are still in its favor for long-term reliability

For context, the pastor at our church owns a 2022 Tundra with about 60,000 miles on the original engine. The only issues he’s experienced are a broken seat plastic piece ( 2nd one!) and a broken volume knob.

While I don’t love some of the Tundra’s design choices (seriously, who decided on the buttons placement?), it’s still one of the most reliable vehicles out there.

I’m speaking from experience, not from random opinions online. This is real-world, proven data based on my own money spent on “research,” so to speak.

If people want to laugh at me for saying the Tundra will last 200,000 miles, that’s fine. We’ll see who’s laughing in the end.

 

Why do you assume those without a Tundra are "tundra haters?"

 

Here are some pictures in case you think I’m making this up.

 

Speaking objectively here; that's anecdotal. It's nothing definitive. It's useful, but hardly conclusive.

Who was laughing? Some one asked why you were confident. Nobody denied it or "laughed." You're victimizing yourself when somebody simply asked a question. That and the overly strenuous attempt to prove your own authority on the topic is a bit off putting. It feels overly sensitive or desperate for validation.

 

Lol, no victimization here, man. English is my second language, so if it came across that way, it wasn’t intentional. I’m just sharing my perspective based on my real-life experiences. You’re talking to a redneck here, so save the sociological analysis for someone smarter than me, haha!

 

How many of those 20 Toyotas were on vehicles with the TNGA platform?...thats kinda what's being discussed, I don't think anyone is debating most of the Toyotas built before the TNGA platform vehicles. There are at least 2 class action suits working their way through the courts on TNGA platform trucks right now, one on the Tacoma and at least one of the Tundra. So I think some of the criticism is warranted.

You have had a good experience with Toyota vehicles vs some of the others, mine has been a mixed bag, the Toyotas while nothing class action worthy, have been the only vehicles that have had to go to the dealership for repair and part failure (non maintenance) with under 100K. The Rams,Chevy's Fords and Jeeps have all at least made it to 100K before they had issues. The one thing we agree on is that when the Toyotas do break, the parts are definitely more expensive. (at least in my experience)

I don't think they are horrible and the sky is not falling, but as far as their body on frame vehicles that they currently sell new....the only one I would buy without too much worry right now is a 2024 4 runner. Anything else, I would be looking on the used market for a non TNGA platform vehicle.

 

Life is too short to stress over a piece of metal that’s going to break down eventually and lose most of its value. That’s just my perspective, though—I get that different people value different things, and that’s totally fine.

You're fortunate if you’ve had a vehicle with no issues until after 100k miles; most of us aren’t so lucky.

 

Every single one of them that I have bought new...except for the Toyotas...

 

This thread...

 

You mean pretty much every thread

 

Every engine thread. Speculation is a crock of s***.

 

Maybe it is, maybe it isn't. Could be though. Just maybe.

 

The F150 PB has gotten bad reviews, which sucks for those looking for a better hybrid option.

But Ram being the best is crazy to me. I know looks and durability arent the same as reliability, but most Ram trucks I see that are 4-5 years old look like crap. Faded paint, hazy headlights, chipped paint. Maybe its as much the owner buying the cheapest option as it is the machine.

 

RAMs aren't cheap here in Canada, price out an equivalent Big Horn with same options as an XLT F-150 and you'll pay $3-$4,000 more for the RAM. Tundra's are actually the least expensive truck currently for the options I'm looking for, as well as the ONLY truck I can buy with an 8' bed.

 

My favorite Ram stat:

 

Doing research.
The Powerboost videos have been alot of fun to watch, these guys trying to connect to their main breaker to power the house. The good thing is the truck recognizes issues from those I have seen and says "Ground Fault" preventing problems. That 7.2kw power pack is a real unicorn option. I want it. If you think about it, losing electricity affects our lives the most. When it goes out all hell breaks loose. I have seen real issues with the Generac alternative, as they sit there until needed and then problems happen. Also regarding the bad CR rating I think it might be a case of mostly good trucks a few bad ones and those guys are really vocal. It really seems to be hit and miss.

A bigger concern may be the truck catching fire. Apparently not good to park them in the garage next to the house. lol

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/are-hybrids-more-likely-to-catch-fire.30234/

Because I live in the 51st American State 8^) ....I need 4Auto. And I "really" do not want any glass in the roof. So thats a trim package problem for me.

Regarding paint comments after 4 years on these trucks. My 2018 paint looks new still and its never been in a garage. Same for the 4Runner.

 

I dont have a need to power my house from my truck, I have a Honda EU700is for that, but I can confirm the 2KW inverter is an awesome option to have. Has saved the day a couple of times. That's probably the thing that surprised me the most about the Tundra, still a useless 400watt charger, even in the hyrid.

 

I get comments quite often on my 2016 "Race Red", people think it's a new truck. It spends a lot of time out doors and I'm not that particular about keeping it clean either so that speaks to the paint quality I'd say.

People having problems with their generators are simply not running them, look after it and it will perform fine when needed, just like any other machine. But I would agree that the majority of people who install a home generator get it installed and then never look at it again. Anyone that's ever had an RV w/ a generator should know better, exercise it every few months *under load* and keep the fuel fresh.

 

Power Corrupts and Absolute Power Corrupts .....Absolutely - hah hah

I have generators sure its not the same. My truck is pure utility for me. Its a tool.
What better tool to have on your truck?
Trust me Toyota would love to have a competing power option in what they call the "Hybrid" truck.
But their choices were made for them when they stuffed the 288v sealed Nickel-metal Hydride Ni-MH
battery located smartly (not) under the rear passenger seats.

 

Ah, yeah I knew they had to have a reason. But still, my truck is not hybrid and it has 2kw available. I can run anything a 120V outlet can run. Why does Tundra only offer 400W? Doesnt the minivan have a larger inverter already, why not use that? It just so much utility to miss out on.....

 

from limited research the Tundra and Sienna use two very different systems and similar batteries.

https://www.thedrive.com/news/44110...-tundras-hybrid-system-different-from-a-prius

Toyota Tundra Hybrid - 1.87 kWh 288 V nickel-metal hydride
Has a single motor-generator unit. The Tundra Hybrid's battery is a 288V sealed nickel-metal hydride battery with a capacity of 1.87 kWh. The battery is recharged by the gas engine when the vehicle is cruising, and by the electric motor when the vehicle is decelerating or braking.

Toyota Sienna Hybrid - 1.9 kWh 288 V nickel-metal hydride
Has a dual-motor-generator setup. The Sienna Hybrid uses two motor-generators, one to convert the engine's power to the battery, and the other to send power from the battery to the wheels.

The Tundra is more designed in a mechanical way to provide power that a pickup needs for driving.

So IMO from the limited research, there is a limitation for the Tundra to provide more power in the outlet, due to 1) the way the system was designed its main goal and 2) the old battery technology that Toyota chose for the Tundra.

ironically ....the latest Tundra commercial shows workers at a jobsite.....go figure. LOL.
And the one older guy Worker holding a coffee to wake up. obviously bought coffee. hah hah
My Keurig coffee maker needs 800watts to work in the morning. Dark Roast Black Coffee to me in the morning or its just not happening.
The truck that replaces my '18 Tundra one day needs to allow me to make F... coffee..... if I wake up to power out. I won't get into what my wife requires for household power.

And regarding job sites. Just a thought
I have all Milwaukee tools - Cordless - directly influenced from my Son who is a Millwright.
Lots of batteries, so from a tools aspect I guess am covered as a homeowner DIY guy for most of the tools.
Its the household items that come into play here that are the problem. They are not Cordless.

 

Power-boost needs a transfer switch that will work with a bonded neutral power source.

Not just any transfer switch will do the job. Wrong one will throw a fault and turn the system off. I am not an electricity/wiring guy but my understanding is the system is setup so if not connected to the right setup it will shut off and not let you do something with even a small risk of causing a fire. Lots of people don't read up and spend money getting the wrong one installed. I think There's ways you can modify some to work but questionable whether it's recommended safety-wise.

I am a block from a school and have never lost power for more than a few hours, maybe 3-4 times in 12 years. I have a 1 into 4 cord to run from the 240 in my bed through a window and some heavy duty 120 v cords to go from there to power enough to get us through an evening. It's nice to have but I'd still probably have a 9k-plus portable unit and a switch if it was more common to lose power around here for a day-plus.

Among the Biggest things I've run is my leaf blower and hedge trimmer. Also Succesfully tested for a bit on the deep freezer in the garage and just for s and g let my plumber run their auger off it one of the times They've been here to clear my main line. It ran his machine without a problem The entire time with reserve power available. Haven't tailgated with a big group at a sporting event in a few years but I imagine it'll be a hit for that too.

 

I've never used mine on a jobsite, but I don't do the type of work that I get to use tools. But I can tell you any of the Ford ProPower (even non-hybrid like mine) will power your Keurig. I've used mine for everything from microwave to 1800W Heat Guns.

 

Was referring to Ram trucks paint BTW. But Im glad your paint still looks new!

 

so your the one with a corded leaf blower still, HA