Slow speed ABS activation fixed!

Finally got my ABS to stop going off at slow speed 5-1mph or thereabouts. Been reading and trying all everyone else probably has on here but seems I goterdun.
Backstory: this all started a couple years ago when I did a bunch of front end work. New spindles, Coilovers all that fun stuff but when putting it all back together the driver's TC spindle had been milled down to far where the ABS/speed sensor mounted. They made a spacer overnighted it to me and still no luck with just putting it in and going back to normal so we figured we'd damaged the sensor when we put it in prior to realizing the error in spindle. The sensor went it so far it would touch the actual tone ring. Though it was barely noticeable on the plastic of the sensor it made sense being as they seem super sensitive to any slight variance.

fast forward to the last few days I've done the following trouble shooting etc.
-Jacked up drivers tire to be able to spin wheel freely and cleaned every last groove in the tone ring with brake cleaner and god knows how many Q-tips, there was some grease probably from install initially, not a ton though. But there wasn't any metal shavings -still no change.

I forgot to add I tested the resistance on the passenger side sensor and compared to drivers they were the same when eliminating possible factors.

Went and bought an assortment of O-rings from AutoZone because you can't just buy them throught toyota, they only come with the sensor for the front. You can however buy the back ones.-no change

Did this Zero-point calibration.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWZE7guAuJM&t=31
Seemed to get better and not activate as much but still not gone.

Went back out this morning, removed the spacer cleaned what little rust Very little, wouldn't even say it mattered as I could seem through it) was on it and the spindle mating surface. Factory O-ring seemed to be stretched out and not allowing the sensor to go in far enough so I took a new AZ O-ring smaller than factory but stretched it out because they are all thicker than the toyota ones, put it on wiggled it back into place and went for a drive....nothing! No damn buzzing and slight tire jerk!

What's not in the video that I did do was, park in the street so I could just go in a straight line at 25mph without backing outta drive and turning before all of the battery disconnecting and paper clipping. I don't know if it makes a diff but it made sense in my brain with the procedure.

the ODB-2 connector is upside down in my truck orientation wise that in the video so keep that in mind.

2006 without VSC.

 

So you think a new O ring fixed it? What is an AZ o ring?

I haven't tried fixing mine for a few years. Maybe I'll give it another shot.

 

AutoZone, sorry. I think the zero calibration and a new O-ring and reseating did it. I forgot to add I tested the resistance on the passenger side sensor and compared to drivers they were the same when eliminating possible factors.
It was hard to see that it wasn't allowing the part to go in all the way because of where it's at and I have that spacer to deal with also.

 

Awesome. Glad to see someone finally got a handle on this.

 

I hope it helps someone...what is 24 hour revenge therapy Shift?

 

It's what was tickling my ears while browsing the forum yesterday or day before. Usually my tagline is a reference to song/lyric/album, almost w/o fail.

https://open.spotify.com/album/3n1jTsW0E5gEsiftAFx3N6?si=Qh5o9q4pQwGhEjybDjwNKg​

 

I just watched this video. Does your truck have a VSC light? Mine does not. I think are differences between the OG first gens and the newer ones.

 

Are we referencing Jawbreaker here?

I think the OP is without VSC. Seems like the takeaway to baseline sensors (resistance check, clear codes, clean everything) and then fuck around with spacing? That sound about right?

I haven't had an issue with this (knock on wood) but need to note these threads. Thanks for sharing.

 

As others have found, alignment of the sensor is pretty crucial, so the deteriorated o-ring may've impacted alignment? With the rear axles, others have experienced some pretty wild stuff if things aren't pressed right with regards to the tone ring, so alignment issues can come from more than one angle here. I think the big thing with diagnosing a case like unexpected activation would be finding a repeatable case where you can get ABS to false-activate, then use a diagnostic tool that can monitor all four sensors (or one at a time) to see which is activating and focus on that sensor.

 

No mine does not. 2 different lights blinked out of sync then in sync like the guy explained. Iirc it was ABS and brake light, sorry should've recorded that

 

That's basically what I did without the diagnosis tool. I had a pretty good idea where to start and focus being that 1 spindle was dicked up from Tuff country and that's all I messed with at first when this shit started years ago... After resistance checked the same all I had left to do was clean again and O-ring. I've had that 1 sensor out countless times and never could tell if that original ring was in the way til that last time, I think it was too stretched and loose not allowing it to sit flat. I suppose it wasn't doing it's job at that point because it wasn't a very snug fit like they are when you first pull them out. This is probably why they suggest using a new ring whenever you pull the sensor?

 

I'm in a similar boat with my brakes right now. I've noticed the pedal is hard/firm when I get into the truck after it's sat for a day. Like what happens if your booster is leaking, booster check valve is bad, that type of thing.

But the timing is extremely suspicious. The first time I noticed it is after I made a 1st attempt to replace my passenger side UCA and install coilover. But technically, I can't think of a single thing I would've touched on that side which would've resulted in me impacting vacuum in my braking system.

Could just be a fluke. But the damn booster check valves are like $50, gasket/grommet is another 10, and I'm in total disbelief that specific check valve would fail at my low-low mileage. And all the rubber lines associated are in superb shape.

 

Yeah, brakes suck. You're talking about the check valve on the booster right? Can't you just pull it and blow through to check functionality?
I think the rubber lines can deteriorate from the inside too? I maybe totally crazy on that but swear I've read that happening before.

 

Yep, that's the one. Yep, I can probably do that but whatever this is, it's a slow leak, takes hours to firm up the pedal, so I'm not even sure how that would track blow-test wise.

But anyway, totally OT for the conversation. Just lamenting about the "touched one thing, apparently triggered an unexpected land mine" feeling.

 

Anybody else have developments on this error.
2006 Tundra 4wd. 4.7
I’m posting in event it helps someone or if someone has advice.
I broke the mounting bolt for a driver abs sensor. I replaced with the cheap internet crap and attempted to re-tap a new bolt.
I’m good at many things, tapping a new bolt is not one of them. I ended up JB Welding it into place and things worked great for a few months. Then a month ago, ABS started engaging at low speed. I chipped away the JB Weld and replaced with a front ABS harness. I got someone that was more skilled at tapping and we put in a new one. Problem persisted.

I looked at other sensors and I noticed brake fluid leaking from rear breaks from recent replacement and bleeding. The fluid was leaking down into the ABS sensor. I got it out and it was filthy with liquid debris. I cleaned it and replaced and problem got worse. I’ve ordered a new sensor for rear.

My theory: it’s brake fluid debris in tone ring. If it got worse after cleaning that one, it seems it has to be associated with that one sensor.

question: prices range from $9 to $379 and everything in between. It is a very simple part. I ordered one off Scamazon and will see if things change.
1. Why prices range so wildly? Which should o get?
2. How should I clean the tone ring?

any advice? Should I run the Zero Point calibration?

 

I used brake clean, sprayed down in the front and holes and used blue shop rags/q-tip to clean between each groove on the tone ring. I had pretty much zero luck prior to doing the zero point calibration but after that it still did it for a day or so just seemed less frequent (but not by much) until I cleaned and reseated and changed that O-ring on the suspect sensor on mine. Fwiw, you can buy new factory O-rings for the back just not the front. Maybe that brake fluid ate away at the rubber?
I wouldn't throw parts at it without good reason or testing.

 

I don't think that's brake fluid. I think that's probably diff fluid. Chances are your seals are blown. That may be because your rear diff vent valve (the nub on top of the pumpkin) is clogged. Those sensors getting dirty will cause exactly that. I'm fairly certain a good scanner can detect which sensor is trggering.

With electronics, general rule of thumb on these trucks is not to use Generic, and if buying OEM brand (Denso/Aisin) never order on scAmazon or fleaBay unless you like knockoff parts.

 

can you recommend a scanner? I have one that will clear ABS error but mine will not tell me about performance of ABS

 

the brake fluid was coming out of the connection to the caliber. I had to replace it last year and I must have not tightened it enough. You can see it come out.
However, I am not filling out it being part of the problem.

 

Reviving this thread from last year. I'm having the exact same symptom. So this O-ring is on the mounting surface of the ABS sensor?

I'm not getting any ABS lights but at around 1 to 5 miles an hour I can feel the pedal change and I hear that sound on the front right brake - both are what I observe when the ABS is kicking in. and then it suddenly pulls to the left which supports that theory.

coincidentally, I just replaced my 2883's with my new dobbies and I had the shop replace the upper ball joints because of some other odd noises. I probably should've done like others and just got new upper control arms with the upper ball joints already installed

so a lot went on that could've potentially affected the positioning of the ABS sensor

 

Yes o-rimg sits in a little indentation right below the outside mounting surface. If you unscrew it you'll see it. They are usually deteriorating or just gone. Get a pack or whatever from vatozone and stretch the closest size smaller out if ya have to. Try the recalibration test and then clean the front two sensors and down in the ring with q-tips where the sensor inserts into the hub. You'll need a flashlight. I use brake clean. If I remember correctly. I would first try just a q-tip to see if there's any oil and then go from there. You obviously need to jack up that tire so you can spin the wheel while you're doing this to get the entire gear for the ABS tone ring somewhat clean prior to doing the calibration and what not.
I would definitely try this before buying a new ABS sensor because they are not cheap and aftermarket ones everybody seems to have problems with.

 

@Hi06silver when you were having this issue was your abs light on? Or did you have any DTCs that were being triggered? Im having this issue right now but no DTCs at the moment. I did have a missing rear sensor but replaced with cheap one off Rockauto. Then had a dirty front sensor that I cleaned and replaced the o-ring. Then reset the codes. No more codes but I’m having my abs activate at low speed.

 

I also had that issue. There were no codes. Only occurred under 5mph

The O-ring in my front right ABS sensor was pinched, causing it to be slightly out of line.

I first just removed the O-ring since it was stretched to confirm and quit having the issue.

 

Thanks. I will try re-checking and re-seating it. I would love it if it’s that easy.

 

Good luck. Hopefully that is it

one 10mm bolt and fixed in less than five minutes

 

I didn't have any an ABS light ever. As far as DTC, I'm not sure I don't have a expensive scanner just the little BT dongle. I think your referring to counting blinks of a CEL?

It's not given me issues in nearly a year plus but recently started again but not as frequently. Only change is I've rotated tires, which I've done a few times since my last post on this issue and it's just now started again. I still think what I did helped obviously but I think that the way these are mounted (just one bolt) lends them to cause this issue in certain situations, e.g.- lifted trucks, then compounds with drooping when rotation is needed etc. any slight tilt of that sensor can trigger this from my understanding. It really should've been 2 bolts but I guess that's why we should remove it when dropping tire to droop for whatever reason.
I'll try to see if it feels loose here in a bit as I'm doing truck stuff kinda and update after I take it out for a drive.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by counting blinks of the CEL? Is there something to that?

I tried cleaning and re-seating the two sensors that I replaced (Front Right and Rear Right). I haven't messed with the others at all. Same issue this morning when pulling out. Still no DTC or dash lights registering a problem. Back to the drawing board.

 

I was thinking DTC had to due with flashing dash lights for some reason, think I was confusing that with the blinks when recalibrating the yaw sensor. NM. I didn't have any that I can remember. I'll check when I get home.
Did you try the yaw sensor? Did you clean down in the sensor hole?

 

If your ABS light is on and you don't have a scan tool that can read ABS codes, you can pull the ABS DTCs by using a small paperclip or jumper wire. Sounds like your light isn't on though, so you wouldn't be able to pull any codes.

 

So after I re-read your post it made me remember that the “maint reqd” light blinks multiple times when I turn the truck on. But no CEL and no DTCs or any other lights.
Ya I pulled the sensors and got in there with q-tips and some brake cleaner. Front tone ring was nasty, rear was fine.
I haven’t checked the yaw sensor. I’m not sure how. I can try and see if it activates or gets a reading from my scanner.