Need help wiring multiple light bars ditch lights and rear bumper lights

I'm sure this is in another post but I can't find the detail I'm looking for, so please reference a post if you know of one. I am looking into wiring 2 42in curved light bars in the grill (using Caliraised brackets), ditch lights and rear flush mount lights in the bumper.

I figure I will need a fuse block for this, to keep less wires running directly from the battery, but don't know what I'm really looking for. I see smaller looking seablue brand on Amazon or there are some heavier duty looking fuse blocks like on summit racing with relays built in. I guess what I'm asking is for help so I don't use something under rated and melt the wires.

Also is it possible to run the switches to the A-pillar? I understand there is an airbag there and not a lot of room for larger switches but I was wondering if a row of smaller rocker switches might fit?
Or if someone has found a bracket that will install in the over head console area, not spod or any other product that costs a rediculous amount because I can't afford it.

Any other suggestions referring to wiring up multiple lights or where to mount switches are welcome as well.

Thanks

 

The wiring harnesses for the light bars are wired with the relay connector integrated. To use something like a terminal block, I'm thinking that you would have to make harnesses. As far as switches, I wouldn't use small switched in the A-pillar. Most of the smaller switches would probably be underrated for the current. I have mine mounted in the business card slot.

 

You sound like a switch system candidate. @QaQa
https://www.google.com/search?q=swi...33i10i160l3.6913j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

SPOD allows 6 items, all with fused outlets. I run my 42 inch ONX6 plus BD front bar, 2 BD 8 inch fronts,32 inch HR light bar, bed lights, BD bumper lights, and my ARB onboard air compressor

 

I forgot to mention I have a front bench seat. So all possibilities of center console are out.
Not arguing, trying to understand, I thought smaller type switches could be used if they are a trigger switch to a relay?

 

Auxbeam or other sPod alternative is going to save you space in the end, and give you a cleaner, easier install. Better expansion options. You have 4 accessories or circuits already. Add any scene/work lights or something else and you get to 6 quick. That's just lights. Get a system and after the initial install, adding your stuff is easy. Switchpros and sPod are expensive, but you would probably get close to the cost of some of the more affordable options by building it from scratch. What lights do you have?

 

Did you build that air manifold? Nice set-up!

 

I'm exploring this option. There are 3d printed mounts out there, more for your truck than mine. I don't like what I've seen for my truck that much, but the overhead console is a good location. I'm attempting custom, it's a WIP. But, my control panel is a known quantity and size, makes it easier to plan. I've also seen mounts, panel specific, for the column. But, I do think whatever you do, plan for expansion, or plan for at least 6 switches.

 

I have been looking at auxbeam and nilight switch panels as a cheaper alternative. Do you know if they are decent quality or not? I don't expect them to be like spod but I don't want then to fail/brake within a year either.
I don't have any lights yet. Looking at auxbeam, nilight, and mictuning as some possibilities. Any suggestion on any of those?

 

I don't. I have BD designs that are in a box. But plenty of people have run some of those. Search the lighting threads and you can probably get some insight.

 

@alb1k is correct in the idea that if you get one if the more affordable switch setups, you’ll be around the same price as if you build it from scratch. If you build it from scratch, it should actually be more reliable since you’ll have individual relays, fuses, and switches, rather than relying on a cheap switch box.
The inexpensive OEM style switches are nice, but you need a lot of them. I’ve seen some of the small switches you mentioned earlier installed under the a/c controls. They will work as long as you’re using relays. I have a fuse box with individual relays, though my install would be cleaner with a fuse/relay box combo, then wired to switches, since I can’t afford a SPOD either!

 

That it what I am debating, to trust a cheaper switch set up or take the extra time to build one. I think I'm starting to like the idea of small round switches under the ac controls..... But not committed to that just yet.

 

Those are really good points. Dollar for dollar, analog switches and relays/fuses will be the most robust and reliable. I haven't built that setup. Here's an article that looks interesting. A bit of a hybrid with the electronic control panel. https://trail4runner.com/2020/01/03/diy-switch-panel-switch-pros-spod-alternative/. I have no idea the quality of this.
I imagine there is a good build thread for a full analog setup around this forum somewhere.

 

I had one of those cheaper switch systems, tossed it in the trash. There are lots of benefits to using one of the switch systems but you can easily build what you want and learn a bunch in the process. Someone above mentioned switches not being able to handle the current???? This is what relays are for, the switch handles minimal current simply to open or close the relay. The higher current passes through the relay, not the switch. Here's a quick example:

I added the Blue sea mini busbar cause it's a really bad idea to just ground lights all over the truck, much better to run all the grounds to one location.

 

I’ll vouch for Auxbeam as I’ve been using it for 5 months now; have wired my light bar and ditch lights to it.

I wouldn’t want to wire anything to the a-pillars given that if the airbags were to go off, you’d have switches in your face and body.

 

What column are you referring to that you have found mounts for?

 

That looks pretty clean, where are the relays at?

 

@QaQa take a look at voswitch. There’s a guy on YouTube that has a discount code and when you buy from their site it’s like $200. A little more money than the auxbeam but it has the relays built in. Just another option.

 

There is also the trigger brand for 4 switches at $240. Like others have said, when you consider how much it’d cost to build all the relay harnesses and wires, you’re almost better off getting a switch system

 

Thanks for all the comments and recommendations

 

Relays are built into the fuse box! I had that question too, but all the relays from the harnesses were causing so much wiring mess in my engine bay.

It’s been really reliable so far!

 

How did you mount the switch panel? Screws or double sided tape? And did you use the switch panel bracket it came with?

 

Was planning to use that mount bracket, but I didn’t.

Used double sided tape. Ran the wire out through the bottom plastic trim and added an extra heat shrink tube so it wouldn’t “crush” the wires.

I was going to drill, but the fiancé said no.

I think when I was asking about this, as long as we’re not running lockers or OBA, it should hold up to all your ACC lightings. I’m no expert in electrician, but from my understanding, the lights shouldn’t draw too much watts (need to confirm from an electrical expert).

Then again, it’s probably your gauge that matters more.

 

MICTUNING 2PCS 5" Dual Side Shooter LED Light Bar, 6600LM Spot Flood Combo Work Light Pods Offroad Driving Fog Lamp for 4X4 Truck ATV SUV Boat

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4FTSC5?_encoding=UTF8

Has any one put anything bigger than a 4in light for ditch lights? These are 5in lights I was looking at and was wondering if even the 6 1/2in would work? I assume the size restriction is from opening the hood and not smashing them into the windshield.

 

where did you get that tray the box is mounted to?

 

Comes in the box with the kit. Not sure if anything has changed since I bought it.

 

any complaints?

 

Nada! Works damn well. Once your truck is on, you can set which lights you want on and able to turn them all on/off at the same time.

It’ll reset once you shut off the truck.