What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

It's 100% real. Even if I have no real data to prove it, I'm convinced.

 

I hope everyone realizes I'm kidding, I know you two do, but ... I'm not ChrisFix trying to get my crankcase SUPER CLEAN. I currently have no steady income, I can't afford purging 30min old oil!

 

I figured. That said, if you had hard evidence that it was actually making your crankcase cleaner, I wouldn't be all that shocked if you did.

I realized recently that 3 of our 4 cars now use the same oil, same coolant, brake fluid, and gear oil. 2 of the 3 use the same ATF. Gonna start buying in bulk once the bank account allows for it. I miss that stupid minivan but it was really putting a wrench in my All Toyota driveway.

 

Hey guys, ShiftyFix here!

 

I have a job and still can't afford to waste good oil. It'd be cheaper just to use seafoam or an actual engine flush

 

yeahhhhh, that’s why I’m worried. The front wheels were planted and chalked on the ground, truck in 4x4 Hi, I could hand spin the back wheels and the front didn’t move. So either they aren’t locked or I am not really in 4x4? I was kinda counting on those front tires being engaged to keep the truck from moving.

YotaMafia took half a year to ship the 5160s to me, I didn’t pay extra for the retainers, maybe they added them to say sorry? But I sure like them. Followed the Billy instructions on how to set them up, I think it’s a clearance thing but they’re not on the truck yet so idk why they want them like that.

 

You're in 4WD. Everything is working as normal.

Since you're in 4WD, and our trucks have a permanently locked center differential, and the front wheels were on the ground, the driveshaft going to the rear axle cannot spin. However, the rear differential is not locked. As a result, the rear wheels cannot both spin in the same direction. However, since they are both in the air, one can spin forwards while the other in spinning backwards. If you were to put one wheel on the ground, then that would prevent the other wheel from spinning, as they both can't spin the same way.

What you're experiencing is normal for an open differential or the limited slip diff that came in our trucks. A locked differential, as well as some types of limited slip, would prevent the wheels from spinning in different directions, and would prevent both rear wheels from spinning in your situation.

 

Excellent explanation! Thanks.

 

It begins. Now we’ll see how many days it takes me

 

I love they mark the bell housing with the model of block it’s supposed to bolt up to.

“They hate us because they anus”

 

You decided to give Pennzoil a try? Nice.

 

I respect @KNABORES’ and your input. I need to OC anyway, needed to order something a couple hundo miles ago, and I’m open to trying new stuff if there’s reasonable evidence to support why I should try it. It’s not like it’s going to kill the truck, and who knows, maybe I’ll like it more than the M1 stuff I normally use? Will see. I’ll give it two OC cycles, and evaluate. I wish all humans had the strength to step outside their normal comfort zone periodically and try new stuff, the world would be a very different place eh? EDIT: although hopefully I don’t spring a leak like Ravioli did

 

Good because i'd be disappointed to meet you in a Prius or something...

 

Nah, Ravioli's leak started after driving back from Hangout Fest 2018. Full of people and luggage. Super hot out. Stop and go traffic. The rear main seal. I just noticed it leaks less when I use Mobile 1 High Mileage. That video convinced me to upgrade to the Ultra Platinum next time though.

 

Oh no, who's oil video did I miss... I've been M1 high mileage synthetic for hundreds of thousands of miles. Pennzoil is the hotness now?

 

Got one of those on the left too....

 

Project Farm has done a number of oil test videos. I posted one for Pennzoil a page or two or three back. That said, he has ample others where he tests freezing, friction, sends off for labs, etc. it’s quite informative. One of the best YouTube channels out there.

 

The Dodge pickup?

 

Looks like I won't be changing the oil until Sunday when temps are above the 50s. I've got to run to a dealer north of ATL to grab my black friday parts here shortly, and really wanted to do my OC and swap on my new removable drain plug, but it's still 28° outside right now and won't get above freezing 'til nearly 2pm.

 

Thoughts on the regular Mobile full synthetic 5W-30 for $15/5 quarts?

 

Sorry to see you have to swap this again right after the rear main.

 

I mean, I'm a Mobil1 guy for engine oil, typically Valvoline for grease and ATF. I used Mobil1's full syn in 0w20 for our previous Highlander with no issues, top-end looked clean as a whistle. I have zero complaints, and $15 for 5qt of any quality synthetic oil is a damn deal.

For my truck, up to 70k miles I was using the M1 Extended Performance oil. At 70k or so I switched to M1 High mileage. Depending how impressed (or not) I am with the Pennzoil Ultra Premium ("PUP"), I'd be going back to the M1 high mileage. And high mileage only because of the seal-repleneshing additive package most high-mile oils include, which may or may not exist in the same quantities in the PUP I'm using this weekend. I should probably dig on that point, I'm sure someone out there has done analysis of the Pennzoil and M1 products to guesstimate the additive packages.

 

Bro, do you even camper? Lol

 

You don't even gotta wait.

https://youtu.be/vwqIdFeP_1c?si=xSztufKTqKkw1HOx

 

100% would be "Shift Fix"

1000% better looking

 

Funny you link that guy. Knowing how much varnish I found under my valve covers early into my ownership and after very few oil changes, I was tempted when I saw that guy's video on the Valvoline "Restore & Protect" product. There's a long thread on it (almost 100 pages) on BITOG forum about it. Some pretty compelling evidence if it clearing out varnish and deposits, with real-world examples. That may be not-far-off on the horizon. I'm going to pull out my snake cam and try to get into the driver side valve cover with it on OC day to hopefully get a baseline of what the head looks like now, after doing multiple iterations of full syn and Seafoam on a shorter OC interval. But here's that video for the Valvoline R&P which hails in at nearly identical pricing to the Pennzoil PUP. Note the dipstick varnish before/after in his video on his wife's minivan...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IDvx1LtqVM​

 

his video on R&P is the reason I decided to go with it. Trucks on its 4-5(?) use of R&P

no science here. Just tryin' to keep my shit clean.

 

BTW on what I did today...

Picked up my $65/ea inner fender liners from Toyota today, along with some plastic receivers for the bolts to replace mudflap hardware that's blown out.

Let's just say, this part is simple blown plastic like what the black pots at plant nurseries are made of. I was expecting a thicker plastic. I can clearly tell it's a Toyota part, the part number is cast into the part. But I gotta be honest, I'd have liked something a bit more robust. I'm wondering if this is one of those parts where going aftermarket is worthwhile and/or "the same"? Anyway ... maybe this is what the factory ones are actually like. We shall see. I may keep my old ones and patch/beef them up at the pinchweld corner. Time will tell.

I ordered locally because, frankly, I can only imagine how a remote dealership would've folded these fuckers up to ship them out, and I'd have probably needed to take a heat gun to them to get them back into shape again.

​

 

Had to grind the damn shocks off from the underside. Stupid 14mm bolts were both stuck real good. Wasted a lot of time trying different methods first haha.

Oil talk?! it’s been a while since I dove in too deep on this. I read a bunch of BITOG posts and really liked a user named Gokhan and his formula for sheer stability. I used his chart in 2020 to pick MOTUL 8100 x-clean + as the oil for all our vehicles, and I can run it in my tdi if I need to. VW approved. I wish project farm would test that and Rotella T6 5w-30 multi vehicle as I liked to use that before switching and it’s usually cheaper/easily available. This chart is from 2020 so formulas may have changed. Also I’m no oil scientist, but this guy sure was and he wasn’t selling anything. You gotta look up his formula and posts to understand any of this.

 

This is what I’ve used for the last 2 rounds. I’m no scientist, but it goes in then it drains out. Truck is running smooth, so that’s all I can ask for I guess.