Drum brake star adjuster not self adjusting

They're only available for the later years. I know 100% the '00-'02 is NLA. @FirstGenVol got (quite possibly) the last one in the country. I swear he ordered two, and could only get one.

 

Correct.

 

May have to bust out the old file and clean up the notches. Shit!

 

Not sure if that will help, as the arm that is supposed to be doing the movement isn't even moving? HMMM

 

Photos please

 

What part of the system would you like photos of? I don't wanna take the wheel off again but I will if I can fix it.

 

Have you checked out this thread? https://www.tundras.com/threads/drum-brake-star-adjuster-lever-revisited.94151/

You probably have since it seems you've been reading quite a bit. Post #9 shows good pics of the tab "in the fork" for the adjuster. Did you verify that?

 

Sure have. Takeaway is use OEM adjusters with OEM arms.

I might just open them up and clean everything and take photos and try and get everything moving well...

 

I think the real takeaway is to pay attention to detail.

You understand the basic function, so study what you have and hone in on what isn't performing as it should. Assess whether you can fab/hack it up (IE: file the tabs) or whether you have to try to source OEM. Post up your progress on this as you go with pics - i know it's a PIA but you'll continue to get solid folks helping out here.

 

Alright guys. What am I missing here. Here's a video. Excuse the sound I'm wearing a respirator. Both sides do this. @noahrexion @bfunke @shifty`

 

IIRC the drum needs to be on for auto adjust? Honestly, haven't relied on auto adjusters and just pop off drum and clean out dust and manually adjust once in a while. Usually adjust the star by hand using feel spinning the drum with both wheels off the ground until get slight drag. Also test the parking brake that also needs the cable to be correctly adjusted (at pedal and under cab). Is parking brake cable threaded correctly in the notch under the hub? Think this pic is a Tacoma rear brake but same idea IIRC....

 

In your video, I feel like I'm seeing excess movement out of the left-hand shoe, and almost no movement out of the right-hand shoe. IIRC, at least on this side, the armature - that long thin arm behind the star adjuster - is linked to the right-hand shoe, and is what's responsible to kick the start adjuster forward. Embedding the video here, to save others a click.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7F3yxNdRNSg​

 

I see the vid now, thanks shifty.

@PNW15 I really don't think you're missing anything. You have a DC (I'm not sure if 04+ AC are the same as our DC's but they may be) but the design of the adjuster/actuator changed in 04 I believe. Mine, like yours, is located in the back behind the shoes (between shoe and backing plate) and does NOT actuate like the prior model years with the parking brake as you're seeing. I'm fairly certain these years are only able to extend the shoes out enough to have the start adjuster move (and catch on the metal tang) when there is sufficient shoe lining removed and the brakes are applied hard enough. Notice at the top of the forward shoe (where the fulcrum/pivot is) moves excessively with the drum off. With the drum on, some of that movement goes directly to the rear pad to give the space for the adjuster to make it micromovements in preparation for the grand finale "click" once in a blue moon. I really just don't think that happens as often as it "should".

I think there is a lot of voodoo with these rear brakes, especially the later years. I don't know why the design change but I see lots and lots of complaints about functionality. In practice, we all end up cleaning and adjusting ourselves - momentarily satisfied if all other components are working and adjusted tip top. I think the drums with the lever outboard that catches the wheel does work better - I used to have an 01' and the parking brake repetition worked to keep it tight.

Cable adjustments, LSPV fiddling/bleeding, greasing pivots, adjusting brakes is the main crux of this truck in my opinion. Feels like a lot of potential areas to focus on (like golf) and can be overwhelming at times if you miss detail.

 

OK, so I have really got my brakes working good by going through the Toyota Service Manual. Bell cranks are positioned well, cables are tensioned correctly, and the brakes bite immediately without pedal sag after initial front brake contact.

HOWEVER. This is all based on manual adjustment and trail and error with how close I can get the shoes with minimal rubbing on the drums...

I went to my trusted mechanic today and asked for their help regarding the auto adjustment not functioning with the parking brake. They were no help. The young tech insisted that the parking brake does not actuate the arm that ratchets the start adjuster. Which, as we know from reviewing the manual, isn't true. I even showed them the manual...

I didn't personally want to troubleshoot this anymore or take a part the drum brakes as a whole... But it might be my only choice unless their senior mechanic and owner get back to me with a revised perspective. I may just take apart and lubricate most of these parts and reassemble. All this because I want to make my brake stay good, stay safe, and not have to re-adjust as part of routine maintenance

 

Most mechanics are not familiar with the nuances of the FGT. The brake adjusting mechanism is unique and just one example. Back in the day when American cars had self adjusting drums, you adjusted them by driving in reverse and braking firmly with brake pedal not emer brake.

 

Yes lubricating these points is good but may not solve the problem. How about just checking and adjusting them manually every once and a while with a tire rotation?

 

I'm stubborn and want them to work as intended. But I won't die on this hill if it comes to it haha