What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I laughed when I saw the original post earlier. Still plan to digitize them when I have a chance.

 

@shifty` did you ever get the 6112 mounted up? How’s the ride? Anxiously awaiting a ride report

 

Yeah, install ain't happening any time soon. Still haven't gotten it done. Haven't even gotten the parts out the box to assemble the struts.

 

Thought these were the original IFR6A11, but I guess those are discontinued. Are these fine as long as they’re not counterfeit?

 

Speaking of 6112s - I’ve got a lot of goodies at home waiting for install. Hopefully I’ll get to do it around new years. My buddy is building a garage and we are hoping to christen it with my truck lift. Just waiting on 5160s and I need to order the 930 cv boots. Trd pro wheels should be here this week. I went gloss gunmetal. But I’m planning to do a full report of how it all works out so it’ll be another data point for 6112s.

 

What you ordered is correct for your truck, per NGK so consider this a "happy accident":

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I knew they fit the truck, checked that out before hitting purchase (NAPA), but so many other plugs also fit. Will take a comparison photo when I swap them out so anyone else who’s curious knows what they’re getting.

That’s looking great!!! You’re almost all set, I did the front end first and am acquiring the rest for the rear now. I’ve got the 6112s up front and I think they’re a substantial improvement, but I still want extended spring lengths instead of the c-clips.

 

That's what I use

 

Clean
Clay
Wax
Battery
Headlight Refurbish
Speaker Fix

https://youtu.be/u7a1khQOFHM

 

If you're in Ontario, make sure you protect that frame! Nice looking truck.

 

Very nice work. I was with you until the OEM speaker repair. You did a great job refurbing that one, but I would have (and did) chuck em when they get old. Much better sound to be had over the OEM ones. That's a nice truck you got there.

 

There are some cases I'd actually re-foam. Like, the JBL drivers aren't bad but there's better tech out there. Some years of Toyota around the era of our trucks came with the Mark Levinson audio components, and they're definitely worth redoing the surrounds on.

 

What's your rear setup there? After having my camper in the back of my truck for a month, I realize I'll need to freshen up my rear suspension before long. I also hauled heavy weight with my Tacoma. Ended up getting HD General Springs for the back (along with air bags), which lifted the back, giving me crazy rake that I didn't like. So I put OME coils on front and evened it out. But then I had a lifted truck, which I didn't really want. All just to beef up the rear suspension. Hoping to avoid that this time, but since I'll have a camper in my truck, not sure I can. Curious what you have going on with the leaf springs.

 

I've had it sprayed a few times. Getting sprayed again this week!

 

I thought about it. I did that on my old truck but was looking for a slightly cheaper option. They sound decent and work which is nice lol

 

Buffed the old white back to a shine. Waxed, put on bfg at's(used set I had), detailed interior. Surface shield on the frame and then drilled holes in rockers. Sprayed a mix of used diesel oil thinned with diesel, into doors, rockers, doors and inner fenders (front and back). Just in time for snow.

 

Drives me nuts when people rip out nice speakers that were designed for use in a specific vehicle, with a specific amp, and a specific sub, just to install cheap aftermarket speakers that will never sound as good. Not that our trucks are that high-end, but I think a lot of engineering goes into stock sound systems. My buddy spent a ton of money putting fancy speakers in his new Mazda, and the system sounded way worse than it did before.

The Mark Levinson systems in my Lexuses (LexI?) both have needed foam replacements. People told me I was crazy, but it cost me $120 to do both cars, and the sound systems are actually nuts in stock form. Unbelievably good. I think they're 450 watts each.

 

If I was working with a factory mark levinson or similar grade system, I could support refurbs. My 2000 AC came with cheap, cost saving paper and foam tiny magnet AM radio ready speakers. They were not worth saving for sure. Swapped in some Pioneer 3ways first, then years later the current RF separates.

 

Contemplating replacing my starter today. Watching the TRQ video on starter removal and replacement. Don't recall doing half of what they do in the video. I was able to just raise the intake without unhooking any of the fuel lines, injectors, etc. Hmmm. They also reused the intake gaskets in the video. That's a no go for me.

 

Yeah, I’d be surprised if our trucks ever came with anything worth rebuilding. My stock speakers were the same thing.

It’s when people do it to nice systems that gets me.

 

Doing the starter on my Lexus (with the same intake manifold and fuel rails) was pretty easy. I undid the fuel line but you could probably leave it connected if you really wanted. Didn’t have to remove the injectors or anything. Hardest part was not breaking all the connectors that need to be disconnected.

 

Yeah the guy I bought mine from hauled big boats, so my leafs look like a sin wave and definitely need to be replaced.

So I ordered the 4wd regular duty ATS leafs - part numbers 90-219 and 90-221. Then I ordered the wheeler's progressive AAL to add in (not ICON). And for shocks, I'm doing bilstein 5160s. I'm planning on keeping some rake, but right now it's like 2 or maybe 3 inches. It's a lot. I'm trying to land in the 1 inch of rake area in the long run. I don't have added armor or weight, but just load up with probably 600 lbs of passengers and gear a few times a year.

 

I've been running ATS's leaves for 2 yrs or so, and they have barely settled from original install height. They were/are a great value, IMHO, for a street truck.

 

Re-used gaskets? Wtf does that?

I spray silicone lube in connectors that haven't been separated over long periods of time and let it set for a couple of hours. 9 out of 10X they'll separate easily. If not, I hit the problem-child again and repeat.

 

Same here. I have the ATS HD on my DC w/ full time snugtop canopy and I haven't dropped/settled much if any in almost 2 years.

I really like the performance as an all around leaf but I hear y'all on the lift. I don't really want the lift either but I have it. I don't want to bump my 6112's up cause I don't want the lift up front more than the 1" I got. Thus - I live with the MF- rake. Solution = Chevy 63's ???

 

Today I learned people can refurbish OEM speakers. I've always abused em til they sound shitty, then replace with Sony, Kicker, or Rockford Fosgate. Depends on what deals I can find and my budget.

 

I've often wondered how you pulled that off. When I did mine recently, I removed it all for ease, including the coolant crossover and hvac line. Are you going with the cold-weather package/larger starter? I did and it's definitely a significant boost in starting oomph. Larger, too, just fyi.

 

Cool, thanks (everyone). So those shorter leaf packs are the Wheeler's progressive AAL? I'll research them. I have Sumo Springs and maybe could get away with non-HD new leaf packs. But I do carry more weight than just a topper and some gear, so maybe there's no avoiding a lift, unless I want to spend the cash on air bags again. So are you thinking once installed you'll have 1" lift above stock height, or just 1" rake? I'm already planning to eventually try out 5100's on the second or third perch up front to take care of the OEM rake. What I don't want is to increase the OEM rake and have to really lift the front end to get evened out.

Edit: just looked at them. So I'd need to remove my overload spring, and expect 1.5" of lift? That description is for Tacomas and all 99-2006 Tundras, so I have to assume the lift amount is balllpark. Anyone have experience with what lift they'd give a AC Tundra? If added to a non-HD new leaf pack?

 

Just FYI, mine is an AC that never sees much weight. Rear currently measures out @ 23 7/8" after 2+ yrs.

Front measures out @ 23 1/2" with OME 2883 or 2885' (can't remember offhand) on the lowest setting. It is stiff, but for the open road at speed and minimal potholes, I love it. Definitely a trade-off, but it works as-intended.