2004 Tundra Double can electrical issues

Guys, I have an issue with my sons 2004 Double cab we have been redoing. We just finished painting it and upon putting it back together we discovered the Speedometer, alternator and the power windows will not work. The battery light does not come which I think it should while running and not charging. Things we did while the truck was down during paint, New speakers, Blower motor resistor, was working only on high. Driver door lock actuator, That covers the electrical work as far as I can remember. I installed a new alternator/reman and still have the same results. Not sure where all of this ties together. What I have checked this far, all grounding points, 140amp fusible link, checked for continuity and resistance on the dash panel light resistor reading 300ish ohms I have gone through the electrical diagrams from the forum and I’m at my wits end with it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Sounds like you blew a fuse, or if it stayed parked outside the whole time, maybe it’s got the classic A-pillar leak that lets water get inside and corrode the fusebox in the dash.

Does that truck use the M-USB fuse block thingies in the fuse/relay box next to the battery?

Have you checked ALL the fuses in the whole truck, including both boxes in the engine bay, and the dash to make sure they’re not blown?

I like using this website to easily find “linked” circuits, which sometimes makes it glaringly obvious where a circuit fail is happening: https://www.startmycar.com/us/toyota/tundra/info/fusebox/2004/ver-double__cab__models

that links straight to 2004 DC.

 

Shifty,
I replaced the fuse box drivers side under the dash about 8 months ago due to corrosion. I even pulled that out and inspected again, all good with it. Not sure what a M-USB??

Forgot to mention, I did find the 7.5 amp ECU-B fuse blown shortly after starting up the truck and discovering the issues. Also the rear window (back glass) doesn’t roll down. This didn’t correct my current issues.

 

Rear window has its own fuse IIRC, maybe in the engine bay fusebox? I forget.

Looks like the M-USB maybe started in 2005, so not on yours. But for example, looking at the website link I provided, the rear window power is a JCASE/window fuse in 30A at the bottom of the fuse box in the dash. So I guess I’d ask you: You sure you checked all the fuses? Why’d you replace the j-box/fuse box in the dash, exactly, and if related to leaking, did you ever find and fix the leak?