General Supercharger Thread

Regert those bushwackers, huh?

 

lol the straw that broke the camels back
I don't think I have any mod regrets. Maybe regret not doing some things sooner.

 

Get er done! I'm waiting on the big bearing puller for the press and a Friday sale for the lsd. Hopefully start on the rear when the lsd gets here and go from there.

 

Are you!?
What LSD are you buying, powertrax?
Amazon buy is 169.72 for the front and rear 5.29. But then we need the install kit and fluids.
Damn - I am jealous.

 

Damn you!! OK just bought the gears on Amazon. Had some cash back points on the credit card so it was 'free'

 

Can’t go wrong buying the gears IMO if you think you would ever want them in the future. Where else you gonna get them for that price again? If you’re not sure you could just wait it out on the rest of the parts needed for the install. Worst case you wasted $170.

 

Agree. Seems like a deal tough to pass up. And it's not like it's a BS company. Is there a known 'go-to' installation kit that people get? Would I be a fool to regear and leave the stock lsd in there?

 

Fuck me!

I got a $14 garden sprayer and $6 small engine fuel shut off valve.

Toss the wand and cut in the shut off valve.

Easy, cheap and little chance of contamination.

The sprayer even has increments on the sides so you know how much to put back in.

Chapin 20000 Made in USA 1 -Gallon Lawn and Garden Pump Pressured Sprayer, for Spraying Plants, Garden Watering, Weeds and Pests, Polypropylene, Translucent White https://a.co/d/0XbFZXA



LETAYAR Polymer 1/4" Inline Fuel Cut Off Valve Shut Off Valve Straight Gas Valve with Clamps https://a.co/d/h6VwPCY

 

I would 100% do a good helical gear LSD like the powertrax or speedmaster while getting the gears done. Dont F around IMO, the truck is so much better with a good LSD and you don’t wanna have to pay to do it twice if you can help it. As far as install kits I don’t think it matters as long as the kit uses good Koyo or Timken bearings. Most of the kits you’ll find use Koyo such as Motive, Nitro and Yukon. I mixed and matched as that’s how I got the best deal, Nitro for the rear and Yukon for the front. ECGS has good prices to begin with but they have a 15% off sale for BF right now on the Yukon kits.

 

where on Amazon? i think ill go 4.88 as i dont run 37s.

 

I'm going with speedmaster. Waiting for their BF sale plus veteran discount. I got a Yukon mini kit for front but also local dealership has some front bearings if I need them. There's the Amazon Yukon kit for the rear. That's a good deal. Also NTN out of japan full rear set and bearings that are supposed to be pretty decent. Debating on getting Toyota seals or using the Yukons. Seems a split on longevity but the diff master Zuk swears by using Toyota seals...

 

I was thinking the same but decided to run a 295/65r20 that's 35.5 inches. Trying to keep that rolling resistance in check went with the 5.29. Plus it will ease the strain on the drive train.

 

I went with the tube through engine bay with funnel. My hand slipped and fell fell over. I had a quart of atf go down the fender/fuse box. I swear I'm still wiping it up and that was 3 months ago.
Will be using a hand pump from now on.

 

what sucks is i dont see any fromt and rear gear sets.

 

If you are 33"+, don't eff around and just go 5.29

 

I don’t think they have the same deal on 4.88s. Everyone seems to say 5.29 is what you want for anything over 34”. It’s supposed to be a big difference with 5.29, and less worth it with 4.88s. The trans gears aren’t very low on the tundra. 5.29s and 35s on a tundra will give similar final drive ratios to a GM 2500 with the 6 speed and 4.10s on stock sized tires, as a good comparison. I’m diving in based on everyone’s recommendation on 5.29s.

 

ive heard otherwise for 35s and lower. ive seen a lot say 5.29s are too much for 35s unless you tow a lot.
are those suppose to be front and rear gears? i thought the front looked different

 

Front is 9” vs 10.5” for rear, and I believe the front is also reversed like the Amazon picture.

 

Well, just search 5.29 gears on here and read opinions for hours. The consensus is pretty clear, 5.29s are the go to. The ones I shared are the ones you need both front and rear 9.0 reverse and 10.5, purchased separately not sold as a front and rear combo set in this case.

 

im really surprised to see guys saying the Amazon gears over $1500 nitros etc lol
but good for budget guys like myself knowing even others will use off brand over paying for a name

 

Well, they’re not really “Amazon” gears as to say they’re a shit brand name. At full price they cost the same as the other popular gear brands. Motive is supposed to be a quality manufacturer but for some reason is dumping the tundra stock for peanuts, maybe they will stop supporting them and are selling off the stock. I made a thread about it here. I wouldn’t buy them no matter the price if the brand was not supposed to be a quality product. Everyone started off apprehensive on the idea, then when mine drop shipped from the manufacturer people seemed less skeptical and at least 12 people have bought some now. https://www.tundras.com/threads/extremely-cheap-5-29-gears-motive-gears-ok.149056/

 

but the question is the big bumo in rpms. wouldnt that effect mpg more? now if im cruising at 80 flat im at around 2k rpms. 5.29 will bump almost another 500 rpms

 

But think of the low end horse torques!

 

I bought 4.88 rear need to order a front, master install kit and speed master unit. We run 4.88s on the old man’s also on 37s.

 

unlike everyome here im not building a speed racing truck lmfao. im looking at the long run of efficiency and longevity. i did pick up a camper this year but that only gets used over the summer. after the run up to oregon woth it once we figured its better to leave it and get a hotel half way through lol

 

Not built for speed. On 5.29s.

 

You could customize your shifts with the new gearing but yes, depending on tire size may be a bit higher rpm than stock.

 

Man you guys keep talking about Level10 transmission and so I searched them up and they’re less than 3 hours from me. I guess I know I’m in good hands when I do ever get an SC and need a trans rebuilt by them.

 

im on 35s.
honestly im not even sure if they previous owner did gears or not. i hear about guys on 5.29 being able to breaking loose their tires easier but i seem to be able to do that too. he evem had the speedo calibrated almost dead nuts

 

I'm currently still using the stock TRD transmission tuning but do have Gear Lock set up. I don't know why, I really don't use it. I have Flex Lock disabled as well. Of note, my transmission WILL lock up in 4th gear with the selector in Drive, you can feel it when driving and see it in the data logs. I have no explanation for it.

I don't know if the experiment with locking 3rd was indeed the cause of the demise of my transmission, as I was being pretty dang hard on it doing a lot of WOT stuff while experimenting. I did like how it was shifting with the tuning at the time of failure, but I won't be going down that path again,

@Mdl I haven't noticed any of the harsh 4-5 shifts of late, which makes me really happy. For those that don't know, before having my IPT trans mission installed, I used VFT to reset the learned values. After a conversation with IPT, I learned that doing so was not recommended unless there were anomalies after the install, but oh well. That shifting peculiarity seems to have resolved, time will tell. I still have a rather abrupt 1-2 shift that others have mentioned that they've experienced with the upgraded valve body. It's pretty tame in light throttle neighborhood driving, but gets a little bit rowdier with more aggressive hit from a stop. It's been quite a while since I've made a WOT hit from a complete stop, and can't recall off the top of my head what that 1-2 shift was like.

On the matter of oil brand, I was using Amsoil since I purchased the truck third hand at 40k miles, I'm sure that it hadn't been changed before. I changed (pan drain/fill) it for the second time with Amsoil just prior to starting to experiment with the 3rd gear L/U at about 106k miles (S/C install about 80k). It "looked" fine and didn't stink. But after it started acting up and I did another pan drain/fill within a thousand miles, it stank pretty bad. Currently the built transmission has Toyota WS in it, at the recommendation of IPT. John and I had a conversation about oil selection (Amsoil) and his comment that hit the hardest with me was that he said something to the effect of "Just because it claims compatibility, doesn't mean that it's the same." In my search for Toyota WS, I found that it could be had for less than what I've been paying for Amsoil Signature as a Preferred Customer. This prompted me to look into the price of Toyota engine oil and I found the same scenario. So I collected a few oil changes worth of both of the Toyotas oils and will be using them unless convinced otherwise. With the transmission, I'm going to do a few consecutive low mileage pan drain/fills to hypothetically clear out any initial wear-in (friction) material that might exist. I'll probably do that at the same time as my engine oil changes merely because I'm under the truck making a mess.