Blown 6112 - Next Steps: Buy Dobinsons

I've had 6112's on the front of my 2006 doublecab for 4.5 years and about 40k miles. Both are blown. One is blown and the other is squeaking like crazy. The suspension is otherwise stock but newer. It got new ball joints and control arms about 15k miles ago.
The truck is a shop at the moment, because I couldn't locate the squeak. I am not positive how torn apart it is.
So, I'm trying to decide what to do next.

Option 1: Have the shop put it back together, pay them for the diagnostics, and buy something better/different and put it on myself.
I am not sure what would replace them. Kings? Toytec is local. Who's got a black friday sale?
Option 2: Have them put something cheap on there. Ship the shocks back to Bilstein to be re-built under warranty. I believe they could be warrantied. Another post said that Bilstein will rebuild them and ship them back.
Option 3: Have the shop put something decent on and move on with my life. I am not sure what they can get locally and quickly.

I haven't been blown away with the ride of the 6112's. The 6112's seemed too stiff both on-road on things like expansion joints and off-road on washboard and stuff. They felt great on bigger hits. They had whatever spring they ship. I think its a 650 lb spring. The truck has a hitch up-front, but no armor or real heavy stuff.

I'd like some unicorn, affordable, just right goldilocks shit. I am drawn to King's because they are reportedly progressive, but they seem pricey for a truck that sees a high percentage of pavement and commuting. With that said, I-70 and many of the Denver metro roads suck.

Thoughts?

 

Toytec always has Black Friday deals, usually 10%-20% off. You may want to call and ask. They also install on-site. Other DC drivers have reported they like the ride on the DC. On my AC with 700# springs they come with it feels a bit stiff to me.

 

For me - I’d need Kings rebuilt every year or two with the mileage I accumulate - I don’t like installing and removing coil overs enough for that to be a thing.

I’d second the ToyTec option since they are local - I just wouldn’t expect the ride to be significantly better than the 6112.

 

Option 2.5 if they have it torn apart already. I’d have the shop put something decent on and still send in the 6112 for warranty. If you don’t decide to put them back on you could sell to offset costs.

 

I don't drive all that much. Internet says 30k to 50k rebuilds, which would be 3-5 years for me. It would probably annoy me, too, though. I am sure irritated about the 6112's.

 

You had the Boss 2.0's on there, right? Website says that those need an aftermarket UCA. It looks like the Ultimate doesn't need an UCA.

Edit: also, the Ultimate is just a bilstein 5100 with a fancy adjustable sleeve, so that given my feelings on Bilstein at the moment, that isn't happening.

 

Kitchen rebuild - do you clean them in the dishwasher too? There’s a guy on the Porsche forum who put his engine case halves in the dishwasher. Claims it’s an awesome parts washer provided you can stand the spousal heat.

 

Rebuild them. Unless you really don't like them. I have a DC and I dig mine quite a bit so far (it is not my daily commuter though).

One thing I don't love about these is utilizing the circlips to compress the spring for lift - these aren't progressive springs either. I think I may actually try a small puck spacer and dropping the circlip back down to like 1/3 instead of the 5/7 or whatever they were for my DC upon receipt from Wheelers. I like the idea of the truck being lifted with a taller spring a lot more.

Worth mentioning or noting, since I think it's equally important, is to consider your load range on your tires. Wheel/tire specs matter a lot - especially in your scenario. I run a load range E but for a lot of folks just cruising pavement/not offroad the factory rated C may be a little "easier" for you on those expansion joints/ cruising conditions.

That being said, I used to live outside of Denver and visited Toytec about 15 years ago - super great group of guys.

 

Are 6112s actually rebuildable?

 

I don't think so, only higher end stuff actually is. By rebuild, I mean send em back to Bilstein cause they supposedly warranty them fo' life to original purchaser. I'm guessing if they just send out new ones.

 

TTLKTUN06-P - Toytec Boss 2.0 Front Aluma Series Coilovers (00-06 Tundra / 00-07 Sequoia) 2"-3" Lift

That's what my receipt shows. Screencap below of my order.

I am running aftermarket LCA (SCP, but the Eibach-boxed version for 30% less $$$, I got them for a little over $500). I bought during BF in 2022, 15% off. Got the diff drop under logic, "what the hell, alredy spending $1k, what's $35 more?" but in hindsight, waste of money. And honestly, I hope the 6112s I have ride better than the Elka/Toytec, I dunno if it's just the 700lb spring or what, but ride is pretty damn stiff IMHO. Hindsight 20/20, I'd have gone with a 650lb spring if I did it all over again.

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I would call KYB. I really like mine for 90/10 road/play truck duties. 75k on them squeak free and ride great. A hair soft, but they are 22-23 years old. If it came w kyb, id go that way. I dont baby mine by any means and im very happy with them.

 

A quick update. The shop had it all buttoned back up by the time we were talking, so I didn't feel any real rush to make a decision yesterday. It seemed extra squeaky on the way to work, of course.

This morning I am leaning towards getting a pair of 5100 and sticking them in while I deal with the warranty.

I read another post that was complaining about the turn around time because Bilstein rebuilt yours and sent them back. Instead of providing another set quickly or in prior to receiving your pair. I don't have a clue.

Right on. Thanks for the info! Have you sold yours yet?

 

Nah, and currently @bmf4069 has 1st dibs once they come out and I assess how I'm feeling about the ride.

 

Honestly, hot water bathing anything metal is a great parts cleaner. I keep a 1gal slow cooker around for exactly that reason. Add some degreaser if working indoors, else any less-flammable solvent if working outdoors, and run it for 24 hours on low, or medium if high soil. That part is coming out sparkling clean.

 

He'll get 'em washed up right away.

 

The dishwasher eh? Nice!
A red oval instead of blue?

 

Yeah, one of the POs decisions, amongst other......classy color choices in the interior. The pedals and shift knob were yellow.

 

Just wanted to chime in. I have 6112s on the front of my double cab w/700lb springs and front bumper/winch etc.
My 6112s didn't feel so hot until I had my sway bar off, then they felt soft and controlled. I drive like an idiot and enjoy going way too fast over speedbumps though

 

I’ve still got a sway bar, but it doesn’t have any links. They felt pretty good going over a speed bump too fast. They feel too firm going over pebble. Remember Princess and the Peas?

 

Ah, don't tell me they were the auto zone clip ons?
I guess I can't say much though, my shift knob is a wolf in a top hat with his tongue hangin out.

 

You guessed it.

 

For what it’s worth, not warranty related.

 

This is an interesting way to describe it, but I relate with my Toytec C/Os. Feel great going over humps and lumps, but hit the raised gap at a bridge at 30-40mph, or run over a line of tar/asphalt, or hit the smallest of potholes and it's like you just ran over a fire hose at pressure. I'm sure it's got to do with style (digressive/linear/progressive/regressive/whatever) of absorber, but ... yeah.

 

I've complained about this before but I would kill for a 5100-style shock with progressive tuning for our trucks. The cheapest linear or progressive shocks for our trucks are the King 2.5s. Literally everything else is digressively tuned, which means it's firm over little bumps and helps prevent nose dive when braking and body roll when turning. I don't care much for maximum on-road handling. It's a pickup truck, and that's what sway bars are for. It's so annoying to me that I have to consider spending $1500 on coilovers that will only last 30-40k miles just to get a good ride.

 

@FiatRunner - Agreed. I'd love to have something with comparable pricing to the 6112 that was progressively tuned.

I heard back from the retailer I bought the shocks from. They don't sell Bilstein anymore, so I am going to contact Bilstein directly and get the ball rolling on a warranty.

 

I know everybody has been on the edge of their seats for the last 4 months. Mostly what I've done with the truck is not drive it.
But now...The 6112's are headed back to Bilstein for a possible warranty. We'll see.
I ended up buying some Dobinsons Twin Tubes with 302 springs from 1stGenOffRoad.
They've only been on for a week or so, and nothing but commuting in town. Initially, I'm pretty pleased. I ended up going this route because I didn't have the time, energy, or desire (read: disposable cash) to upgrade the upper control arms. The Dobinsons were inexpensive and arrived fully built. They ride slightly softer than the 6112's set at 4/6, and appear to give a little more lift. I don't have many miles on them yet. Hopefully, they settle a little bit. At this point, I'm happy with the compromise. 1 week in I would have done the 300 spring which is the same rate but shorter than the 302 with the hope that it rode a little softer on the road and gave a bit less lift. I am not a trail guy, but I regularly get on rocky forest service roads. We'll see how they perform and hold up.

 

Another un-needed update.

Bilstein denied the warranty. One of the shafts had a nick on it. Pretty weak on their part.

The Dobinsons are breaking in and ride very smooth. The front has settled a tiny bit. I am very pleased with them.