Stumped on lifted leveling springs

I just purchased a new 2001 AC 4x4 with the 3.4L V6 and 5-speed MT. It’s in great shape with 168k miles. I’ve been trying to do my HW and learn as much as I can about these trucks, but maybe because this truck isn’t as common or I’m not that good at searching, I can’t seem to find anyone in my exact situation. Looking at the @shifty` thread and other ones that cover leveling and tire sizes, I think I need either the OME 2883 or 2884 springs with the 5100s. I’m thinking new swaybar extenders too? I have the Falken Wildpeaks AT3s on there now in 265/70/16 (30.6” x 10.8”). The truck is stock but sits with a minor rake. The plan is to level it as high as possible with maintaining a good quality ride on the road. I do not plan on ever doing any off-roading, camping or towing. I just want to level it with new wheels and tires strictly for looks. Here are the measurements I came up with: DF=21.25”, PF=21.75”, DR=22.75, PR=22.50. I want to remeasure it on a flatter ground, but it sort of seems like 1” lower in the front. I want to keep it at 2” to 2.5” max to avoid problems and replacing the UCA. Right now I’m thinking of sticking with 16” wheels with a 4.5” offset and maybe a 265/75/16 (31.7” x 10.6”) or 285/75/16 (32.8” x 11.1”). I don’t know if I can get away with something bigger without major rubbing and altering. Wishful thinking, but I feel the realistic answer is no. Lol. If needed, I would add a small block no taller than 1” or AAL in the rear with new 5100s.

Anyway, I’m looking for any help in narrowing down the aftermarket lifting spring. My concern because this truck is probably lighter than most models and the fact that the front sits pretty high now stock, 2884 or bigger will give me too much lift and will require new UCAs. Ideally if 2884’s work and I get 2” or slightly more of lift without issues, then perfect. If not, then 2883’s.

Thanks!

 

I'm curious what it's got for front suspension now. It already looks 90% leveled to me, compared to stock. Way less rake than my truck. Seems like the info you want is there if you search, though. Maybe scattered through the forum if not in the mega-thread.

I'm leaning more towards wanting less rake, and I've seen a few recent threads from people asking about leveling, with lots of good advice posted. I have the TRD model, and recently replaced my front coils with OEM. It's not the most popular option because people love mods (and maybe there's a loss of ride quality), but it really sounds like 5100s in the front, on the second or third perch depending on how close to level I want to get, is all that's required. No other mods necessary.

Many people can fit 265 75 16 with no rubbing. Depends on the tire. E rated Falken Wildpeaks (matters because E rated have deeper tread, so maybe overall bigger) just barely rubbed for me, only on the driver side at full lock pointing left. Even a half-inch lift and I'd have cleared them.

 

I bought it from the original owner, who is a friend of mine, and the truck is bone stock except these tires are bigger than the factory set.

 

I guess it's the angle then. Looks like more space in the front wheel well than I've got.

Great truck for anywhere, but especially New York! And the one-owner friend truck is always a sweet deal.

 

Yeah, you're already more level than me. And these are 265/75/R16 tires, no rub and the speedo is only about 2 MPH slow on the highway.

 

Here's how I'm currently leveling my truck



I wonder if the larger fender flares of the limited model just make the wheel wells look smaller...

 

What did you use to level yours?

 

Nothing, I'm stock.

 

I see your point. It kinda does give that illusion.

 

And you're 100% positive nobody installed a strut spacer (puck) up front? At any point, either your friend, or someone who had it before them?

2884 is likely going to give you too much lift on a AC V6/4WD and you'll be squatting by ¼" - ½" an inch. It may not even be noticeable, though. However, if it is, now you're gonna be lifting the rear of your truck. I would err on the side of caution and go with 2883.

Ultimately though, you just need to be honest with yourself on tires. Do you really need to have a ~33" tire on there? You're liable to deal with rub. Look at these pics, and tell me if you can honestly see the difference between 285/70r17 (32.8" - 33") and 275/70r17 (32.2" - 32.5")? If anything the smaller tire looks bigger to me because the tread is more aggressive: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2194#post-3759339

If you don't have a very specific reason to go with the ~33" 285/75/16, I wouldn't bother. You're adding extra rotational mass and drag, speedo skew, slower stopping, and other side effects, for what exactly? If you legitimately to need that extra width/balloonage, and intend to deflate to go crawl some rocks or something, that's another story. I'll tell you what I've been telling everyone lately: BE HONEST WITH YOURSELF about what you're doing here, and why.

For the record: I'm lifted 2¼" - 2½". I just linked pics to my truck. Do you really need that much lift for some reason? I probably don't, every day I look at it, I'm reminded I want to lower the front about 1", and I know my kids would prefer I did, they hate trying to climb into the truck. Hindsight is 20/20. Buy once, cry once...

EDIT - my truck is squatting ~¾" for the record. Can you tell? (probably not). This is before getting a wheel swap 48 hours ago, and I'm on 275/70r17 (32.2" technically, but my AT tires are actually 32.5")

I'm sure this reply won't get many likes, because it feels like there's a consensus of "33s or GTFO" that stretches far beyond this forum. If nothing else, a LOT of people are enamored with treating 33" as a milestone or rite of passage. I personally think it's totally unnecessary, overkill, unless you're spending more than half your time offroad, or doing specialty stuff that calls for it.

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Yeah sounds like you're interested in bigger tires strictly for looks, and there's nothing wrong with that. I think you made that pretty clear in your first post. Like `shifty says, honesty is always a good approach. I too like the looks of oversize tires. But I also like the looks of capable, stock trucks. I get off road a lot with my truck. I actually have slightly smaller than stock tires for a TRD model. I have no clearance issues. But you mentioned you aren't doing offroading anyway.

Consensus seems to be you've got something going on with the front end already. We could be wrong, but it sure already looks level to me.

Anyway like `shifty said, 2883s and 5100s and you'll have no problem clearing any 265 75 16s. You probably wouldn't even need the coils. But at 20+ years old the coils are tired anyway. I went OEM. Looking back, and now that my eye is more trained on first gen Tundras than before, I'll admit I'm liking the OEM rake less and less. Next time I've got a little excess cash I'll probably get 5100s for just the front and experiment with 2nd & 3rd notch. Not willing (yet) to also go with 2883s, if I can get the same lift with just shocks, and retain ride quality. I had 2883s on my Tacoma and I have clear memory of how stiff it rode. But I also used OME shocks, and I've seen some pretty crappy reviews of their ride quality. So it was likely the shocks more than the coils. Still, I'm hesitant...

Do you have photos of a Tundra that has the look you're going for? When you start straying from stock backspacing and width wheels, there are only a select few on this forum with expert advice, but they'll chime in. I know with my truck, stock wheels and Wildpeak 265 75 16 completely filled the front wheel well. It was already kinda obvious to my eye "that truck has oversize tires". So what look are you going for? Then you can find out how much money you need to spend to get it. Seems to go up drastically once you go above 265 75 16.

 

I just took photos of both sides and don’t see a spacer, but I also just got it sprayed for the winter and it’s a little hard to see. Technically I’m the third owner. The second owner is my friend who confirmed that he didn’t touch the suspension. The original owner is another friend, who “supposedly” according to the second guy, never did anything to it either. Regarding the lift recommendations, what you’re saying makes sense and the logical part of my brain agrees. Lol. On my other truck, it’s a full size with 35” Baja Boss tires and leveled, and it’s loud and lost 4 MPG, but does look beautiful and the handling is improved too. With the E 10 ply tires, the side walls are so stiff that cornering is better, but it’s a powerful V8 and not as noticeable. This V6 is kinda slow and I’m worried the heavier tires will really slow it down. As you mentioned, if I can keep the rotational weight similar to where it is now between the steel to alloy wheels should be a weight saving and tires that are only a few pounds heavier (no E tires), then it should be good…hopefully. What I don’t like about this Tundra is that the suspension feels too soft and loose. I want to stiffen it up so that it is more responsive and firmer, but not jarring. Would upgrading just the shocks to a 4600 with stock springs work and maybe a small puck to raise the front by 1” work good enough? Or would the 5100s with 2883’s be better for what I’m looking to achieve? How much lift do you think the 5100/2883 combo will give me u front? Problem is that no one I know has any of these setups for me to gauge. Anyway, any additional words of wisdom and advice is always appreciated!

 

Thanks for the advice. So according to what I’ve been reading on this forum, with the AC 4x4, with stock springs on the 5100’s, I would get 0.5” lift at #2 clip and 1.1” at #3. Because my truck seems lighter, maybe I can get a little more per clip? As I mentioned in my reply to @shifty`, I’m looking for a firm and responsive ride and handling, but not jarring and annoying if that makes any sense. Would it be better to go 4600/OEM springs/1” spacer, 5100/2883, or 5100/OEM springs/#2 or #3? As you mentioned, my springs are 23 years old. Mostly driven on the highway and never off-roaded, but still older springs. Then in the rear I would just go 4600 or 5100 and no lifting.

 

If you're comfortable with installing your own springs on the 5100s, I'd get them and use stock springs, run circlip 2 to start, see where you're at, and if it's not high enough, jump to circlip 3.

 

Personally, I didn't like the ride on circlip 2 or 3 of 5100s with stock springs. It felt too jarring. But I prefer a more firm ride and feel that 5100s/OME are the perfect balance for me.

Realistically you're not going to get much real world experience in suspension setups with your truck because the V6/manual/4x4 is an extremely rare combination. I had a V6/manual/2WD and upgraded my springs to the V8/4x4 TRD springs from another FGT and loved the ride- enough lift to give me just a slight rake, firmed up the ride (because the spring rate was for a V8 4x4), and worked great.

If you can find used TRD springs I'd go with those. Otherwise stick with the OME 2883, and if the lift isn't enough for you sell the 2883s and upgrade to 2884s.

On my current truck (upgraded to V8/4x4) I originally started with 2884s but wanted more lift so purchased 2885s and sold the 2884s to a member here. Since they were gently used I didn't lose much money.

 

This is very practical, and with less than $250 difference in price. And the 2883 springs would probably resell pretty easily on here in the 1st gen Marketplace. Maybe not fast if we take your sale post as an example, but they'll definitely sell!

 

Yeah I’ve done them before and plan to do the work on this truck. If I get new springs, then I would pay to get a fresh new setup with new top cap and just drop it in. So are suggesting reusing the existing springs or buying new OEM springs?

Also, looking at the photo of my struts, do you see any small spacers installed? It just looks like the top cap to me and no spacers, but I haven’t taken any of these struts apart yet to say for sure.

 

If budget is not an option, 5100 on bottom circlip + OME 2883 + KYB tophat/isolator kit, make it all new.

If budget is an option, 5100 + 5100 on 2nd/3rd circlip.

And if you go with the 1st option, if 2883 isn't enough for you, swap for 2884 spring and re-sell the 2883 for $150 or something. At least recoup some $$$.

Note someone may want to buy your OEM springs. But I'm still looking at that strut in your pictures and grappling with whether that's OEM or not. Maybe it's just the coating, but something looks weird about it to me, and I can't put my finger on it.

 

Thanks for the info! Do you remember how much lift you got with the 2884s and 2885s? I’m trying to figure out how much lift I’ll get with the 2883s on my truck.

 

Thanks for all the advice! Budget is always a reality but I do like the idea of spending once and getting a brand new assembled strut and just calling it a day. And to your point, if the 2883 is not enough I can always swap it for the 2884s and sell them.

 

Keep in mind that the listed lift amounts are over a stock/new truck. Your truck has probably sagged a bit over the years so you should see an increase in lift height.

 

My truck is a dc but I have bilsteins, 2nd clip with stock 164k mile springs. The ride isn’t terrible but as soon as funds allow I’m getting some 2883’s and going to the bottom clip. Here’s a pic of my truck it’s 2wd for reference 265/70r17s

 

To be honest I didn't take measurements before, as when I purchased the truck it already had aftermarket shocks. Also, I currently have V8/4x4, so it's a different front end weight than you.

Personally for your setup, I'd assume lift heights similar to that of a V8/2WD, which you can find in Shifty's sticky thread.

 

Great point. I just looked it up and you’re right. My truck is very close in weight to the v8/2wd. Which makes sense by @shifty` recommendations. I’m kinda in between a 2883 and 2884. Thanks again.

 

Any difference between KYB and Monroe top caps and isolator?

 

KYB is a known entity on this forum, well respected, not necessarily the case for Monroe. It's what the online offroad shops that pre-assemble will do you for. Original non-Bilstein shocks on our trucks from the factory were KYB. They're known compatible with Bilstein products.

But if you want to go Monroe, I'll be curious how you fare with it.

 

My preference is KYB based on reputation. One of the online shops as you pointed out said they put on the one they have in stock. I don’t mind waiting for KYB if they’re the first choice.

 

As long as it's not SuspensionLifts. I'd also check in with @memario1214, he's a board vendor with Hotshot Offroad. Solid chance he can do you right. I know he's helped several members on the forum. I got my KYB kit from him, and talked with him a bit while hashing out what I was going to pick up for my truck a couple years back.

 

It was suspensionlifts. I didn’t realize to avoid them, but thanks for the heads up! Any reasons in particular? I checked out Hotshot Offroad’s website and he doesn’t show 1st gens or OME springs, but I’ll call him on Monday and see what he says.

 

You can also shoot him a PM on here, he's responsive. Not sure about Sundays for anyone, but ... reply #71086 here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2370#post-3742054

Link in the 1st reply. Advice in that replies applies.