Does this sound like a bad bearing?

My driver side front hub bearing is the only original wheel bearing remaining. I'm starting to feel a vibration under my foot, but no noise or wheel shaking (yet). It passes the 12/6 and 3/9 wheel tests.

I uploaded my videos to youtube, but the board complains it's not a valid link when I try to imbed them. Volume up!

https://youtube.com/shorts/Be0BcFrszhg?feature=share

OK, I know what you're thinking...it could be bake pads dragging, or even the backing plate rubbing on the rotor. So I got rid of the pesky caliper and rotor.

https://youtube.com/shorts/lec43lmjn4s?feature=share

Does this sound like a bearing on the way out?

Note, the other side does NOT sound like this.

 

Sounds dry. Make sure it has fluid and get it to that side. Might be too late, but yea, sounds like a bearing. Prolly sat for too long at an angle.

 

What happened to the passenger side front wheel bearing? Did that go in the past similar to this? If so, you’re definitely due just by the sound of that. Personally, I would have done them in pairs even if only one was shot.

 

Still running got the stock needle bearing in the front diff instead of the ECGS bushing? Does the floorboard vibration go away in 4WD? The bushing swap is probably easier than the front wheel bearing....

Oh just listened to video. Yep sounds dry. Mechanics ears could pinpoint.

 

I truly couldn’t tell if my wheel bearing was bad on mine (aside from the noise when driving) by traditional tests, until I pull the driveshaft out of the spindle. Then it was obvious.

 

Don't think there should be noise if the brake shoes are not contacting the rotor (it's easier to remove the pads than take off the caliper and rotor). Did you also do a front wheel bearing test like to see if it has play?

 

Mine had no play. It was bad. Would not turn smoothly once the driveshaft was pulled out of it and would catch at various points of rotation.

 

Thanks for all the comments. I've already ordered the parts so I can change it out when convenient. I'm unsure about the needle bearing. Nothing changes when I shift to/from 4WD, but I do have some play. If I have the knuckle off I may as well get the ECGS busing, right? And while I'm there it makes sense to swap out the CV axles as well. Oh, and the upper ball joint too! I think I'll get another cup off coffee <sigh>.

Meanwhile, check this out. My order from Amayama for all the parts is $135.27...shipping included!

 

The other one went years ago. I was chasing drive line vibration and finally my local shop diagnosed it as the passenger hub bearing. I posted about it here, but I'm too lazy to search for it now (did I mention that the search function here sucks?). Anyway, back then I wasn't sure that I'd be keeping the truck, so doing things just in case didn't make sense. Now it's my daily driver, so I'm trying to renew everything so I can get to 500K miles.

 

If no sound or vibration in the floorboad changes when shifting to 4WD then needle bearing is likely not contributing although bad wheel bearing could be masking diagnosis. But yes there are loaner tools available from a couple people here for swapping needle bearing while you have knuckle off.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/best-gen-ecgs-bushing-tool.59664/

It seems fairly straight forward to replace the bearing with the bushing. The oil seal in the front differential can be replaced easily too by seating it until it stops unlike the passenger side that is more of a challenge due to needing to measure depth precisely.

There are a lot of videos on this but quickly found this one as an example:

https://youtu.be/qRYHF2JYENo

Why replace the CV axles if they are working fine, especially if they are OEM? If the boots are torn then rebooting OEM can be done and would be my route instead of swapping out for aftermarket.

https://www.tundras.com/posts/3451375