General Supercharger Thread

Hang on a minute while I slow this down a bit... First off, not everything in life is better w/a Tesla (like snow)...

For snow, a rocket powered sleigh is far superior; hence my previous post....

https://youtu.be/yDRJItKqClk

PS>>> Tesla is not a Tundra, and it does not have boost; therefore it doesn't belong here

 

Wow those are sweet ! Me want

 

not i lol

 

The only way for reduced IAT's(I would have to tap a port to see) for my little 1900 is a nice 30/70 mix of M/W injection...

 

I’d be running an 80/20 mix of distilled water and antifreeze in the IC circuit if I lived in Texas. With the SC at least on the 2650s, the IATs are warmer at all times than ambient but they are rock solid stable even under sustained 5psi+ pulling heavy loads up long hills where it really counts. It’s the nature of the water to air HX.

 

I considered 80/20 on mine, but heard reports of Harrop having leaking IC cores from improper coolant, so I went 50/50. Also running Dex cool per their spec. I have considered water wetter but don't know how it works with dex cool chemistry.

Unsure what Maggy recommends for their IC cores and coolant.

 

I have a brand new AEM AEM V3 Water Methanol Injection Kit 1.15 Gallon Tank w/ Fluid MAP Sensor 30-3300 (and 4 gallons of meth) and a used Aquamist HFS4 V3.1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/251542763683

 

It's the discussions like these that make me realize just how subtle, but large, some of the differences are between the FI setups. Wasn't there promise with that spacer that would allow for a dedicated IAT sensor to be added? Is that still in the works? It would be pretty awesome for you guys to be able to see actuals. You guys are making the power and recording some great times, so it is merely for science. Whatever it is that's happening behind the MAF is obviously working. And it's what? 1hp for every 10 degrees or something meaningless?

 

I've also been running water wetter in the IC system for past 2 years as well as engine cooling.

 

I don’t think that was from improper coolant, that was just from the first batch of blowers for the tundra that had defective intercoolers out of the box. I used one of the specified coolants in mine too (I used the ford variant) but most just use Toyota pink with no problems.

 

I was looking at the aluminum runner and was looking to @armyoffoo to see if its worth it.

 

If I get the runners the aquamist would be great for w/m for all 8 intake ports...

 

I've been slacking on the Tundra mods lately, too much going on. Hopefully this weekend will allow for some truck work. I've got a pile of parts that need to be installed.

 

I'll let it go cheap.

 

Gotta get my lsd and f/r diff gear install kits! Then it's engine goodies...

 

I ran water wetter and distilled water in my last Magnuson, never had an issue. This time around I went the same route water wetter and distilled water only. Magnuson says to use factory coolant. I have checked but I wonder if that there recommendations for all their SC. If it is then I guess all coolants are safe.

 

Toyota Red Stuff...last 3 years, drain and refill...cools better apparently than the OE stuff that came with the trucks...FB Verified, too!

 

Definitely red stuff!

 

PSA: those with sunroof check your drain holes. Just finished drying out my highlander driver side carpet! I cleaned up the roof seal and drain areas. What a pain.

 

I better look into that

 

I heard that once before too, but could never find any documented reasons why...

 

It's on my list, but the truck has been parked in the shop for a year, and I'm not driving it in the snow, so I think I got some time.

 

Ok, I am stumped now. Emptyed the gas tank. Took out about 13 gal as the pump cavitated. Pull tank, removed bucket. Checked everything, everything checked out. Hooked up the bucket to the plug and raised the float, great it works. Gauge read fuel level. Put everything back, making sure float isn't touching anything or getting stuck. Put in about 8 gallons nothing. Put in another 5 and still nothing. WTF.

 

Are you linking everybody up right? Rhetorical, I know but something is acting up... I've read one can calibrate the float, too

 

I checked continuity from the bucket plug to where the wire hook up on the float switch, perfect. Check power at plug, got around 1.2v. connected the bucket and moved the float around and it worked perfect. Disconnected after verifying it works and install the bucket. Installed plug and all lines. Filled back with all 13 gal and nothing. Trucks starts right up and runs perfect.
I tried looking for a recall but didn't find any info.

 

Arrrgh! Super frustrating! I haven't read anything up on it, but it can be calibrated via an ohm reading and adjustment... I'm not certain if that parallels the voltage you're seeing...to me, some is either grounding out or a ground isn't being "read" by ecu...

 

I have my OEM basket and fuel pump with sender if you'd like me to send it to you...it's been nothing but great for me, zero issues...I bought an additional one off eBay so I could have a backup if I screwed up my DW300 install...pay for shipping and it's yours...

 

I just don't get why it worked outside the tank. There no grounding on the tank, it's all in the plug. Thanks for the offer. I will look more into it tomorrow and let you know. Another member mentioned his gauge went MIA for about 2 fill ups and came back.

 

Update. Scoured the internet for information and found the plug that comes from the tank to the engine bay, yay. Disconnected it and ohmed it out. Got 322, shakes the truck and it bounces around from 322 to 318. Tells me the float is reading. Heading to put gas and see if it registers. Worse case is I have to wait another week for the gas to drop before I drop the tank.

One more thing. I heard that moving the bed you can have access to the FP. From underneath the truck it looks like the pump is under the back cab. Anyone can confirm this?

 

Hell yeah! Nice work!! Confirmed...if you can remove the bed, it's shooting fish outta a barrel...confirmed!