Rotors?

Good morning to you all, I know it’s been a minute since I last posted. I’m doing my brakes on my 2006 Sequoia. As far as the rotors go, which brand should I go with for replacing them? I have reason to believe the fronts are a little warped. Also, if I do tackle this job myself, isn’t there a special type of grease you must apply that Toyota specifies? I’ve used the search function but it brings up too many convos that are irrelevant to my question. Thanks in advance!

Edit: I already purchased the pads from the stealership, just asking about the rotors and grease

 

I have always had good luck with the Toyota dealer rotors. Rockauto also sells them under the Advics brand. Made in the USA.

The parts store rotors are probably ok if you need them today or if the dealer walk-up pricing is crazy. But the parts stores can also have crazy pricing.

 

I like Powerstop products and CRC or Permatex grease for the slide pins. Sometimes you'll find 'angled' rotors which have their cooling fins angled inwards to grab and channel air better than the ones where the fins are Straight up from center of rotor.

 

As far as grease, Toyota only specifies the use of disc brake grease on both sides of the inner shim. Very light coating. The Permatex or CRC disc brake grease would be fine. I have also used the red CRC disc brake quiet for the inner shim (although it may not have been correct). Do not apply to the pad or outer shim. Slide pins are to be smooth, clean and dry, no lubrication.

 

Called up a local Toyota repair shop that I used to repair my door latch, and they gave me a reasonable estimate to do all the brakes as long as I supply the parts(which I will) They are all pretty much due anyways. Plus, I don’t really have experience with brakes themselves, it’s one of those things I’m not gonna f*ck around with. I’m gonna purchase tha advics rotors from RA, genuine ones from stealer are $80 a pop, front and rear rotors, screw that. Just gotta find that RA discount code y’all are always posting…

 

had not heard that the advics are toyota however when I last did rotors and pads and on short notice I just got the napa ones and they have been fine.

 

You know that Toyota makes virtually nothing and like 90% of their vehicles have parts made from other companies which is where the term "OEM" comes from.

OEM does not mean "Toyota" or "insert name of vehicle company" it means "original equipment manufacturer" the factory that made the parts for Toyota.

In other words, find the factory that made the parts for Toyota (they'll have a database for vehicles as well) but direct from them and save yourself 40% (literally)

 

Brakes on these trucks are STUPID easy! Like, you don't even need to unbolt the caliper or anything! Just ....

• Pop the wheel off,
• remove 3 clips and the two pad slides,
• slide the old pads out,
• use channel locks to persuade the pistons down, you may need to hit each one twice,
• then slide the new pads in (with grease on the back surface, in the correct order),
• then reinstall those slides and 3 clips
• check your brake fluid reservoir level after, it will probably be higher from having more pad material.
• Go on a test drive to seat the pads, get up to 30mph, then brake to coast to a slow stop 10 times to bed the brakes

Advics is the OEM manufacturer. You can look up your part numbers HERE. Your part number should be the same as my 2006 (p/n AD0976, buy HERE for $44 for your truck with 13WL calipers and 5% code is 282246821250618065), and it comes with the pads, with shims pre-glued on, all new clips, etc.

I highly, highly advise you to install yourself. Instructions attached. Just make sure you put the pad with the screamer tab facing up on the outboard side, one per side.

EDIT: And when I say "screamers", this is the tab I'm talking about. This pad needs to be installed on the lugnut side of the truck, with the tab facing up. Note the pads otherwise look identical (these are the actual pads Advics will send you in the box, if you flip the top two over, they look identical to the bottom two except that metal squealer tab)

​

 

Forgot this

​

 

And just to really drill home how to do it, here's a video. It has flaws... but you see the process overall, fundamentally...

Some points:

• One, don't get any grease on the pad surface like this guy did, see above his finger on screencap below
• Two, that long clip he pulls from the side, holding the slid pins in, you may have two individual clips, one on each slide, totally normal
• Three, the original anti-rattle clip being on the bottom is not correct, it should be on top, and you don't need to use two clips, although some people do, it makes no difference in my experience.
• Fourth, the kit will come with a packet of grease to use on the back of the pads, the guy in this video goes overboard
• Fifth, he installs the pads wrong!! ... I see the screamer at the bottom of the inboard pad at the 3m33s mark of the video
• Last, I find a part of adjustable pliers (channel locks) to help gently persuade the pistons in, but his method of using the old pads works too... it also matches the FSM above I think

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qS1EaoQQhY


​

 

I appreciate the DIY encouragement, I’ll see if I can do the job myself, having a busy schedule with college assignments and all. I could afford to send it to the shop if I can’t or don’t feel like doing it. As it is I have to replace a blown shock absorber (easy job) and the back latch which got gummed up and doesn’t want to work anymore… I appreciate everyone’s input

 

If you know how to use a ratchet/combination wrench/ torque wrench. You should be able to figure it out.

Or go buy this book

 

I went with the Centric Premium rotors front and rear with Bosch Quietcast ceramic pads and Stoptech steel lines on the front. Huge improvement.

 

Pad replacement, as mentioned above, is fairly uncomplicated. The fronts are especially straightforward due to the caliper design. Since you want to replace the rotors, it does add a bit to the job. It's not too bad, but you need to prepare for it. Probably will need a long breaker bar or long 1/2" drive flex ratchet to break the caliper mounting bolts loose. Also need something (bailing wire, rope, cord, etc), to hold the caliper up so that it doesn't stress the brake lines.

The videos and write up work for your front brake pads. The rears will be a little different, as they are single piston sliding calipers.

If you plan to DIY, pick up a Haynes manual as it does a pretty good job. The factory service manual for Tundras is out there too, but I'm not certain about for a Sequoia.

I'm sure there is no shortage of youtube videos to reference as well.

If you can't DIY this time, there is always next time. Don't sweat it or the peanut gallery commentary.

 

Oh shit @literallyme, I missed any comment you made about rotors being replaced also. That just involves removing two specific bolts on the back of the caliper and hanging the caliper up long enough to tap the rotor a couple of times, slide it off, slide the new one on.

Remember to spray the new rotor with Brake Cleaner spray on the shiny surface, both sides, to remove residues. Can't hurt to douse both sides again after install to remove hand residue.

This should be your rotor for 2005-2006 with 13WL calipers, this is the OEM rotor (Advics): Advics A6F004U

 

So I have all my pads and rotors ready to go and might do my rear brakes first since they are the worst, there is barely any pad left…I’m still wondering on the grease, did I not read on here before that Toyota specifies silicone grease for the brakes, or can I just get the permanent green? Maybe I’m overthinking it, but I want it done right, that’s why I decided I’m doing it myself.

 

What pads did you buy?

If the shims are pre-installed, no grease is needed.

If you have to install shims, a very light amount should be applied on the portion that contacts the pad (if one shim). If there are two shims, then a very light amount on both sides of the inner shim.


As for the caliper and slide pins, clean them good. No grease.

 

You can buy a jar and it'll last you 10 years https://www.jbtools.com/permatex-24...pLXQfMQlw7TDshLztXx_oKsz4q4KtCsaAkBREALw_wcB-

or buy a little $1.99 packet at the parts store at the checkout counter.

Did you already open your box of pads for the rear? Sometimes they will come with packet.

 

No grease? Doesn’t grease prevent it from rusting and seizing up potentially? I’m not doubting you, but you’re the only one who has said they don’t put grease, after watching multiple YouTube vids of people doing brakes on these.

I got the Toyota pads from the stealership, they didn’t come with shims, I don’t think, but I’ll double check rn when I go out. They didn’t come with any grease/lube either

 

@shifty` maybe you could weigh in?

 

That means you will be reusing the shims from your existing rear brake pads. Make sure you don't bend them, and clean them well with brake parts cleaner. You can use the brake grease previously mentioned, or something like the CRC red disc brake quiet. Just a very light coating on both sides of the inner shim (if two shims) or on the back side of the shim that faces the pad (if one shim).

I'm quoting from the Toyota procedure for the front brakes. Toyota does not specify the use of grease on the front slide pins, only both sides of the inside shim. I realize you are working on the rear brakes first, but my advice is the same.

I have found that brake grease gums things up and causes more harm than good, esp when over-applied. Many car makers want the parts clean and grease free. If you lived in another part of the country, say the northeast, then you might need it.

 

Need Shifty for the ole' confidence boost huh, hehe.

This fella is giving good advice IMO. He didn't say no grease, just not on the pins and I'd adhere to that if you're in SoCal. Are any of your brake components rusted or seized? Exactly... They will attract more dust/grime then necessary on there. I DO put them on the pads/shims. * we're talking about the front

If you're reusing shims just follow the attached FSM pages pasted above. This really is a very simple job.

 

I found Sequoia FSM. Its for a 2005.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hh086fxxx3xz0o8/2005_Sequoia_Repair_Manual.pdf?dl=0

Since the rear calipers are a different design from the front, Toyota does state to use "lithium soap base glycol grease" on the slide pins. I believe they are covered and not exposed to the elements. Just keep it light.

No grease or adhesive is specified for the shims.

Also notes to "Install the inner pad with the pad wear indicator plate facing downward."

 

@literallyme

Use the link in the above post to download the Sequoia FSM while its available.

 

Thanks for the Sequoia FSM! I’ll take your word on the no grease for the most part on the fronts with the exception being the shims. Makes sense since I live out here where it’s dry. I’ll probably get started on them either today or Thursday but most likely the latter. Appreciate the info

 

The front slide pins are exposed. If you coat them in grease, even just a fine film, dirt and brake dust will stick to the pin. Does not make for a good sliding surface.

The rear slide pins are not exposed.

 

When you put it like that, makes sense now apologies if I misunderstood, just making sure I do this correctly

 

Weird. They definitely identify where to use grease in the '06 FSM and it's not on the slides. And beyond that discrepancy, which is bizarre considering it's the exact same damn calipers...

And I see what you wrote or they wrote about the squealer position, but '06 FSM doesn't say which direction (page is above). However, I swear Advic's (they made the OEM pads/rotors) doc they ship with the OEM upgrade kit shows installing with the screamer at at leading edge (i.e. facing up). I'll hafta go grab it and check. I thought it was weird to have on the leading edge, because it should scream louder on the trailing edge.

​

 

My posts today were regarding the rear disc brakes on his Sequoia. The rear calipers are the standard single piston calipers, not the big four piston calipers like on front. The designs are different.

The front brakes on the Tundra and Sequoia are the same.

 

Ah shit. I totally missed that. And I also missed something else.

For the front caliper, the squealer is definitely shown in the FSM as being outboard, and facing up, I just didn't see it in the image before. It's here in red.

I knew I wasn't going crazy, and I don't have the Advics doc from their box anymore. But pretty sure Advics said to put it up. And I check Advic's support area, they say it's up because the leading edge wears faster, sometimes 1mm-2mm more than the trailing edge. Wonder why it's the reverse in rear?

​