Parts absurdities

Wondering if there is somewhere on the site to post parts absurdities? My current favorites are the $10.50 carrier bearing and $600+ power steering pressure hose .

 

Look up the price on the plastic surround for the license plate some time. And the plastic cap that goes on top of the tailgate. Both are a total joke.

 

You mean this cap?

 

$2k/catalytic converter with exhaust pipe has always been a pet peeve of mine. Thankfully, the originals last. Can’t speak of the replacements and if they still have the same quantity of precious metals and would last just as long.

 

I got mine for $60. Perks of working at a dealership lol

 

I bought the whole damn set. And then while I was waiting to receive it, I tried painting the whole set using an adhesion promoter and black trim paint. Worked great on the sides. I'm probably still gonna put the new tailgate cap on because it's beat to hell. Have no idea why the tailgate piece was so much more expensive than the sides. They're much longer.

What a waste of money

 

for sure I never would have replaced it except the forklift driver decided it was coming off with the pallet so the company paid for it. They saw the retail and were PISSED lol

 

Good thing the clips are only $2-3 each.

 

Oh shit - that’s the one on my 2000

 

My personal favorite: Yes, you too can (potentially) put your life in the hands of a part that cost less than a Happy Meal

 

Wrong. Get the Spicer part for that one.

 

The window trim is stupid expensive. And the trim that goes in the roof channels. That one pisses me off.

 

Agreed! Stupid expensive!

 

This and the cab-to-door seals! I want to replace mine because my lower is ripped (I'm sure someone must sell a re-glue/foam-weld kit or something?!) but I can't fathom paying the extortionate ass prices Toyota wants for that damn seal. Every truck I see at the JY they're torn also, so snagging one from another vehicle hasn't been an option yet.

 

@shifty` are you talking about the weatherstrip attached to the cab? Fairchild makes an aftermarket one that fits ok. Only for access cabs and regular cabs though. Tried this to fix my loose suicide doors. No luck. Ended up replacing the upper and lower latches to make it right.

 

Yup, that’s the one. I’d like one that stands more proud of the cab to get a better seal and hopefully kill some road noise. But yeah, the OEM is a damn joke. Speaking of “proud”, Toyota is VERY proud of their seals. Probably made in Kentucky also. I need @Tundra2 to fire some up and make a million bucks.

 

The thing that sealed mine up was replacing those worn out latches. Lowers are aisin. Uppers are from Toyota and there are only a few left out there. Grab ‘em while you can.

 

The engine is priced ridiculously but the trans seems like a deal

 

$200 for the door checks is pretty nuts also

 

Door checks are $85 each, but still pretty crazy for what it is

 

What latches are you discussing? I'm assuming door latches but throwing me off with the mention of lower vs upper latches.

 

YES! Every single one of my DC door seals are torn and smashed in some regard but I would rather deal with some wind noise than pay the Toyota Tax on these seals.

 

AC have door latches on the rear half-door due to absence of B-pillar in the location DC has. Those latches grab strikes up high and low. I think @mthoodbill is talking about the latchs inside the half-door that grab these two strikes.

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Yup, those are the ones. Mine were bad enough that the interior lights started flickering. I worried the battery would go dead at a trailhead (I use the truck for backpacking adventures, sometimes it’s a long drive on a remote forest service road)

 

Did you have any other signs they were going bad? My drivers door has developed a nice rattle after about 10 miles of washboard out in the coastal range a while back. I've been trying to pull on the door handle and pushing on various parts of the trim, but haven't been able to figure out exactly where it's coming from. It's not the window, so I'm suspecting something in the latches.

 

@Upshot Knothole Mine got bad driving up to Harts Pass in Washington. Rough single lane road. If you grab the side of the rear door, in the center, while it's latched and push/pull on it, it will rattle. Mine was worse at the top latch. After replacing both latches, you can grab onto it and it won't move. Front doors now shut with a solid thump. A spendy fix, but it's a 25 year old truck. I also replaced the little rubber bumpers and weatherstrip.

 

I just checked mine, and there's a little rattle to it. Also looks like my rubber stoppers got worn down at the same time, there's rubber from them on the door sill now. Gonna try replacing those before I go all in on the latches. Thanks

 

Replacing them is probably the way to go- but I was able to get a huge improvement out of mine my removing the door panel and degreasing the latches and cables, followed up by some very light grease.

Mine used to do the same exact thing, the bottom latch always worked great but the top one wouldn't. It would rattle like crazy and turn the interior lights on/off all the time. After doing the clean/lube procedure, I haven't had an issue with mine.

 

Is it the strike/"hoop" that wears out, or the plastic cover on the door-side latch hook? If on the door side, a quick/easy/cheap fix I found for my DC (the plastic cover broke off) is to take a cheap Bic pen and cut a section the width of the strike. Slit the plastic pen tube lengthwise and put it over the latch hook. No more squeaks and rattles, and if I have to replace it again I still have 3/4's of the Bic pen left!