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Rebuild or replace drive shaft on 04 DC

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by bing5, Nov 1, 2024.

  1. Nov 1, 2024 at 5:08 PM
    #1
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    Hi all-
    I have a 2004 DC with 260k+ miles on it, running all original driveshaft components. I have been encountering a bizarre howling/griding/twirly noise for the past 7 or 8 months. Sound seems to be towards the front of the vehicle. Prior to taking it to the Toyota dealership, I checked the front wheel bearings and they seem tight. The dealership was unable to positively identify the source. Their best guess is carrier bearing. I checked the carrier bearing a couple of weeks ago and it has about 1/2" of play in it, but looks to be in sound shape (not rusted to hell/beat up).

    So, thinking I will replace the carrier bearing, but considering of doing all of the u-joints at the same time due to the mileage. I plan on doing the work myself. Am I better off just buying a whole new drive shaft (Toyota part number 37100-34051 I think) or buying the components individually and rebuilding? I've read a bit about the dreaded double cardan and it sounds daunting. Thoughts and comments appreciated.

    Talking about rear drive shaft here :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2024
  2. Nov 1, 2024 at 5:16 PM
    #2
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

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    You can get the carrier bearing and u-joints from Dana Spicer. Double Cardon joint is less certain to source.
     
  3. Nov 1, 2024 at 6:23 PM
    #3
    shifty`

    shifty` We call it “riding the gravy train”

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    First of all, stop what you’re doing. Go to a driveshaft shop, specifically. There are two times in automotive you NEVER want to fuck around with “generalists”, always see a specialist. Those two times are driveline (/driveshaft) and heat/air conditioning. Always go to a specialty shop for both.

    I’m going to guess it’s one of two things: U-joint, or a bearing, though I’m thinking output shaft bearing or pinion bearing based solely on your description. A driveshaft shop that is half worth a shit should be able to tell you STAT, and fix it for a fraction of what a stealership can. Just make sure the shop only does driveline stuff, and they have better than 4.0 stars in their Google/Yelp reviews. If you do it yourself you’re about to break out the parts cannon. There’s a great chance a driveline specialist can fix for less than you’ll pay in the correct parts.
     
    Weagle and whodatschrome like this.
  4. Nov 1, 2024 at 6:49 PM
    #4
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    You can just unbolt the 2x 14mm center bearing bolts, drop the driveshaft down while it's still connected and spin the bearing by hand to check the bearing.

    If it's gritty/noisy you know it's bad.
     
    G_unit3000 and shifty` like this.
  5. Nov 1, 2024 at 7:53 PM
    #5
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    Heard and understood. Thanks for the advice.
     
  6. Nov 2, 2024 at 10:29 AM
    #6
    Dustbox

    Dustbox New Member

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    Yep my local driveline shop replaced the carrier bearing in a day for $180 bucks parts and labor.

    Mine was vibrating very bad, but only off the gas at higher speeds. Carrier solved that.
     
  7. Nov 3, 2024 at 3:40 AM
    #7
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Doesn’t make much sense.
    Noisy bearing sound in the front, but focusing on the rear?
    I recently replaced my front wheel bearings making classic whirring and wum wum wum noises. They were shot. They “tested” fine when I checked for play or unusual noise or feel on the vehicle. Once I pulled the spindle it was obvious they were both dry inside.
    Now, I’m not saying the carrier bearing shouldn’t be looked into, but it doesn’t seem to match your symptoms.
    Keep us updated with what you find out.
     
    Bmktw2 and FrenchToasty like this.
  8. Nov 3, 2024 at 8:14 AM
    #8
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    I agree. Not logical. Neither I nor the dealership could get it figured so going with the most likely candidate. I figured they would have some wonderful high tech sonic gear to isolate it. Guess not....
     
  9. Nov 3, 2024 at 8:38 AM
    #9
    Bmktw2

    Bmktw2 Yard Dog

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    If it's from the front might want to check the wheel bearings and cv axles. Also check the front diff fluid if you've never done that to cover all bases
     
  10. Nov 3, 2024 at 8:40 AM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` We call it “riding the gravy train”

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    Dealerships are great for routine or "typical" maintenance on vehicles that are "familiar", i.e. ones less than 8-10 years old, knowing most of the techs at any given stealership are going to have 4-5 years of experience, or potentially less.

    Your truck is 20 years old, and has a very specific problem that's not "general maintenance". It's likely something in the driveline, likely the driveshaft, and I guarantee you 90%+ of the techs at any given stealership won't have the specialty expertise to deal with those things. If they tackle it, they're going to parts-cannon it (at your expense) and just replace every possible candidate. Driveshaft, center support bearing, double cardan, then hope and pray it's one of those things so they're not eating potential risk.
     
    Weagle likes this.
  11. Nov 3, 2024 at 8:50 AM
    #11
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

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    I think your earlier comment which was I believe this weekend about take it to a driveline/drive shaft specialist is definitely the thing to do. Especially after my experiences with a couple of shops about my driveshaft /carrier bearing issues recently

    and just to show you about dealerships. I had a conversation with two different Toyota technicians with a number of years of experience about my timing belt tensioner pulley hole being stripped. They told me I had no other options.
    The engine would have to be replaced when in fact that hole is on the oil pump housing

    like you said they're not used to dealing with 18 to 20+ year-old trucks
     
    shifty`[QUOTED] and FrenchToasty like this.
  12. Nov 3, 2024 at 2:00 PM
    #12
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    The problem seems to be definitively in the front of the truck. In fact, I can feel it a bit under my right heel when driving. Dealership was looking at the carrier bearing and rear differential?? Carrier bearing made a bit of possible sense - "telescoping" sound and such. I'm leaning towards what Knabores said - front wheel bearing. I have similar symptoms to his - front wheel bearings seem to pass the normal, manual rock and spin tests, but....

    If not, definitely what shifty said - driveline. Makes sense to take to a driveline specialist. If it is on the driveline - front u-joint, double cardan, carrier bearing, seems like I might just buy a whole new shaft. Yes, pricey, but knocks out everything on the driveline for another 200k?
     
  13. Nov 3, 2024 at 2:02 PM
    #13
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Beauty of taking it to a driveline specialist, is they will actually know if it’s the driveline or not. Now, with the age of the vehicle, everything is worn, just have to figure out how much.
     
    shifty` likes this.
  14. Nov 3, 2024 at 2:19 PM
    #14
    shifty`

    shifty` We call it “riding the gravy train”

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    Exactly.
     
  15. Nov 3, 2024 at 3:56 PM
    #15
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    Anyone ever used Steelman chassis ears for diagnosis of a problem like this? Worth the money and fuss?
     
  16. Jun 1, 2025 at 7:50 PM
    #16
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    It took me long enough, but I finally got around to checking the spot where the driver-side CV axle goes into the front differential. After reading a fair amount about the front differential needle bearing, I began to wonder. I would say there is between a 1/16" and 1/8" play or slop. Definitely noticeable. I'm wondering if this is the source of my howling noise up front. Already replaced both front wheel bearings.
     
  17. Jun 1, 2025 at 8:18 PM
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    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Easy to test. While driving and hearing the noise, put the truck into 4hi. If the noise disappears, it’s the needle bearing. If it doesn’t change, that ain’t it. I changed mine out for nothing already.
     
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  18. Jun 1, 2025 at 8:22 PM
    #18
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    Been a while since I've been on the site but, as I recall, you had a mystery howl up front as well, correct?
     
  19. Jun 1, 2025 at 8:25 PM
    #19
    KNABORES

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    Mystery solved. Front wheel bearings. I replaced them both during a front end rebuild.
     
  20. Jun 1, 2025 at 9:25 PM
    #20
    bing5

    bing5 [OP] New Member

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    As I recall, no change in the noise after putting it in 4HI. Any ideas? I'm kinda stumped. Mileage is right around 270K. Truck has been maintained and is all stock - no mods. Is there some semi-common problem with these first gen Tundras when they get to that kind of mileage? I would think carrier bearing, but I checked it. It's tight and the noise sure sounds like it's from up front

    Doesn't seem like a cv axle would make this kind of howling noise?
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2025
  21. Jun 7, 2025 at 7:28 PM
    #21
    Coastal_Tundra

    Coastal_Tundra New Member

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    +1
    Also driveline shop should be much more reasonable than you would think. Paid 260 out the door for u joint replacement, carrier bearing, and balance in CA. Guy knew his stuff.
     
    shifty`[QUOTED] likes this.

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