What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Well that wasn’t bad at all. Followed this guy’s video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iPyZXvYC8_U


$363 for the part from the stealership, though it looks to be available much cheaper if you can wait for shipping. I probably should have just pushed the pieces back together and saved some $, but I didn’t want whatever failed to fail again.

This was the bit that failed for those who are curious.

 

Currently doing the same thing to my truck.

 

Oof, I feel your guys pain! Last summer I took out my factory plastic bedliner for an appointment at Line-X, only to find the bed was toast on both sides. I ended up doing a quick patch job, then coated the bed with two gallons of Herculiner. No point spending money on Line-X knowing that the bed is likely going to need more repair work.


I stitched it the best I could, but I have a flux core “MIG” and it kept blowing through. I ended up filling it in with 3M panel adhesive, then sprayed the underside with POR15.

 

Finally converted to AWD using a sequoia transfer case and 4wd ecu. Been on the menu for some time and found a low cost case that fit the budget. I opted for a lighted momentary switch that lighted when the differential was locked.

 

My 07 CM crossed into the 1/4 million mile club this morning going to the gym. Now sitting at 250,023 miles. I look at it as a badge of honor.

 

Before and after frame photos. The before wasn't the best lighting.
Rust-Oleum reform and seal brush on.

 

Did you remove your bed? I too have similar damage and have been putting it off cause of the absolute undertaking removing the bed will be.

 

It's not really that difficult. 6 bed bolts(I soaked mine in pb blaster and worked back and forth with impact gun. Got all out without breaking z), remove tail lights and 4 bolts at the fuel door. I found a used engine hoist that I bought locally for $50 to lift the bed off and lower it onto saw horses. If you have a couple buddies willing to help you wouldn't need the hoist.
I am stubborn and don't ask for help so the hoist was needed.
You can do it bed on, but the rust you see up top is minor compared to what is underneath.

 

Your repair looks pretty good. I did mine five or so years ago with a flux core welder, it was the first welding I had ever done. It is not pretty, but it has stood the test of time and my bed rust has not returned.

I removed my bed with the help of a few friends. As @82nd Airborne said, it's really not that hard to remove, and makes the repair much easier to do.

For those who are interested, I documented my repairs here. If I can do this, anyone should be able to.
BlackSheep’s Notebook: Customizing My Daily Driver

 

Sooo here we are. I’ve had to replace my blower motor three times in a year. During that time the brittle plastic trim under the glove box broke.

Me being the person that I am, trying to keep an 08 as new as if it rolled off the assembly line brought me to madness.

This trim is the single hardest thing I’ve had the displeasure of tracking down. Almost as challenging as oem forged 22” wheel ( can’t sell a kidney yet to get those damn wheels ).

That brings us to yesterday when I found a funky wrecked sequoia limited. Grabbed the trim but didn’t have a single tool with me to score the other parts I don’t need. I’m a hoarder of others peoples used junk parts…..

If you are able to find a sequoia or tundra make sure you don’t have knee air bags you can still use the trim but it will require cutting and trimming.

Behold my madness, something hardly anyone will notice or ever care about;




* I realized after this post I didn’t clean it. This atrocity will not stand!

 

I couldn’t pass up this marketplace deal. It fits like a glove on my '07 DC. The extra 1ft of space in front is really handy for miscellaneous stuff.

 

Dang that’s a steal!

 

Was thinking about doing the herculiner myself. Have you done it yet? How did it turn out?

 

Thats exactly what I have done! Flux core all the way lol

 

Got a little work in on the truck with my apprentice (2 year old) today. We replaced the tailgate strut with a stabilus branded replacement, and I'm happy to report the soft opening and easy closing are back to where they should be!

Since we had to remove the left tail light for the job, I figured we had better just replace them both.



I've been wanting to upgrade the tails for some time now because I've convinced myself the factory turn indicators leave much to be desired. Far too dim and unnoticeable. Only design I have been able to get on board with (with LED turn signals) are the Spec D full LED. Until someone makes F150 lightning style tails for our 2nd gens, these take the cake style wise.

 

Looks great!

 

Hey, can you describe how yours opened before and after? Lol. I'm trying to decide whether mine needs replacement or not. My tailgate falls about half way open then the last half it kinda bounces as it slows down. It does not slam at the bottom at all though.

 

You describe my exact failure mode. Fall open most of the way, then catch on what little gas charge was left, bounce and kinda flop the rest of the way open.

The tailgate was also noticeably more difficult/heavier to close, especially after separating my shoulder a few days ago. It is now easy to close with one arm, rather than fairly difficult to close with one arm.

Ordered from the amazonians of course. One of our fellow forum members posted a link a while back. I hear the dealerships don't even stock them anymore, which is kinda sad considering they were still used as late as 2020.

Edit:

$28 Premium Quality Brand Stabilus Tailgate Lift Support Compatible with 2019-2007, Toyota Tundra, Black (4B-256726)

Premium Quality Brand Stabilus Tailgate Lift Support Compatible with 2019-2007, Toyota Tundra, Black (4B-256726)

Super Edit:

Doesn't show, but the strut DOES come with a rubber dust boot pre-installed. Not as nice as what came from the factory, but looks like it will protect against the huge amount of dust in the area.

 

Is that why my tailgate closes so hard? I remember closing tailagtes of 3/4ton trucks with one hand, thought I was just getting old and weak.

 

Why can't it be both?? JK

But seriously, I imagine a new strut will help. Not too pricy and a pretty quick and easy replacement procedure.

 

Installed a bedstep from bestop. There $112 on sale currently. https://www.bestop.com/products/trekstep-rear-mount-step/

 

Nice!

 

Here it is, right out of the bag.


Mine wasn't just starting to wear out. It was completely shot. You'd be looking at wadded up fingers or a busted pelvis if the tailgate got away from you. Now, it opens/drops about 1/2 way down, then extends gently. Closing the tailgate is almost effortless. A cheap and ridiculously easy solution for an appreciated convenience.

 

Installed new tail lights I got off fleaBay

Edit: $132 shipped, for that price I'm happy with them!

 

At my Buddy’s audio shop todaaaaaay.


What we both thought was going to be a quick hour or two doing the serpentine belt, idler and tensioner turned into 4+ hours. This isn’t fun, but with the holidays fast approaching and soon to be doing 100+ mile days with my kid I figured this was my only shot.

Make sure you have a second set of hands and if you haven’t, open up your vocabulary to the wonderfully designed skid plate.

 

Nice!

 

What tailgate handle is that? Nice taillights btw!

 

It's an OEM one off of a 2017. I had a feeling it would fit and took a Facebook marketplace gamble. Fits just fine. Then I bought some vinyl letters off Etsy to put on it!

 

Hmm. Mine is still easy to close. Maybe the strut is just starting to wear out. I have that same one saved in my list for when it does.

Nice. I have the same ones. No issues after a year. I like them. Sweet tailgate handle! I knew I should have kept the tailgate handle off my 2015 parts truck...

 

Patched up a hole in my frame to pass inspection. Would’ve loved for it to be totally smooth but I only have a tig machine so pulsing the pedal with the back of my knee got old quick. Primed and painted up. Rusted out bed is next. Going to try to do it on the frame.