3rd Gen Suspension Lift - MEGA THREAD

yup I have seen those 2 vids

Seems like a decent kit for the price. I did the whole icon setup on my Tacoma for 11 years
Rebuilt them and all and I really like the idea of being able to rebuild without having to deal with nitrogen on the tundra.

seems like a decent price too.

 

Decisions decisions

Dobinsons IMS or that Ironman Foam cell pro

both having Black Friday deals right now.

Pros / cons on both

 

nice that’s good to know.

the literal only reason I was leaning to the Ironman is the ease of rebuilding without sourcing (or buying) a nitrogen setup which was a pain when I rebuilt Icons

 

I had them on my 2021 Tacoma pro and they were remarkably better than the OEM fox setup. If you dig in to the company, you’ll see they are newish to the US, but very well established in Australia, including their military.

 

is everyone installing the shorty the regular size BOTCK? Still riding good?

 

With a 3” lift
Do you need to extend front brake lines?( I assume yes for rear)

 

I did icons up front with total chaos upper control arms. The control arm maxes out before the brake line. Stock brake line was fine in this situation

 

nice, did you lift the rear? Or extend them there?

 

Is everyone getting the adjustable pan hard bar or the BOTCK bracket when they lift? Or not doing either and are fine?

trying to get everything I need to slap it all on at once.

(3” Ironman 4x4 lift is what I will be doing)

 

I am curious about this as well. Is it necessary to replace brake lines for any lift up to 3" front/2" rear? I see conflicting information on this. It seems like some say you need to replace brake lines but then there are kits like the Wescott TRD Preload Collar Lift that simply include a rear brake line relocation bracket, indicating that longer rear brake lines are not required.

Can you get by with factory brake lines if you use or make a relocation bracket for the rear? What about the front?

 

Definitely need extended in the rear. I did airlift bags with airlift cradles and extended socks. Gives about an inch in the rear

 

Highly recommend the BOTCK, without it suspension felt very stiff, getting your pan hard back to parallel is more important than adjusting the length. With stock bar back to parallel axle is placed properly and suspension travels smoothly.
*You can see the BOTCK in the post above

 

Ordering both today then! Thanks for the help!

 

awesome

did you get the standard height or shorty version?
https://drkdss.com/collections/pan-...-correction-kit-tundra?variant=43945142386915

 

I'm not sure, I think there was only one option when I ordered.... About a year ago. At any rate, I'm on the top hole and have no other lift besides airlift airbags (give .5 to .75 inch lift) and the cradles (which are about 3/8s of an inch). My pan hard is parallel to the ground and my suspension cycles smooth

 

Went out and got a picture, hope that helps ]

 

Thank you so much
Looks like you have the regular.
I just ordered it too, seems like it gives more options for the future if I change my lift.
Kind of pricy for what it is but gotta pay to play

 

Anyone have a link to some brake speed bleeders that fit our 3rd gen’s?

 

https://www.showmetheparts.com/Speedbleeder/
Haven't used these, just searched their site. Wouldn't it be just as fast to bleed it old school vs taking your old fitting out, installing these, then bleeding, then cleaning up the brake fluid mess? I changed my rear brake lines and bled them all in about 30 minutes.

 

that link shows “no parts found” for a 2024 but 2022 shows part number sb7100 or sb7100-ss for stainless


Honestly I don’t know, I haven’t ever done it old school. Only time I have done it was with these. Always heard it was hard to prevent air from coming back in doing it old school.

 

It's not that hard. When changing lines I pinch the old line with vice grips closest to the brake. Remove that side and install your new line. Remove the old line side farthest from the brake and your new line is right there to quickly put on. Minimizes fluid loss and air.
To bleed pump up your brakes from driver seat, open the bleeder valve (start farthest from master cylinder first) and quickly close it. Pump up brakes again and repeat 5 or 6 times until you see only fluid coming out. Easier if you have a friend to sit in driver seat and pump brake for you, but easily done alone just more walking back and forth. I used a piece of wood to wedge the pedal down after pumping it up.
I'm sure the speed bleeder works great and would be there for future, but you are going to have a way bigger mess (and fluid loss) taking your old bleeder off and installing this.
Of course if any of this makes you uncomfortable, please take your truck to an insured professional. Brakes are VERY important.

 

Got my take offs and new new UCAs/spacers ready today.. this set up will be going on the truck Friday. Not planning on using the Westcott lift either. I measured the stock height of the truck and will measure again after the suspension is on and before the new tires go on. Information has not been super straight forward on how much lift these give a non-hybrid so hoping I will be able to provide it for everyone.

Truck is a a 2022 SR5, non-hybrid, with Airbag rear springs.

Driver, fender to top of tire: 4.5 inch
Driver, bumper to ground: 13.75 inch

Passenger, fender to top of tire: 4.625 inch
Passenger, bumper to ground: 13.625 inch

 

I got the setup installed this weekend and took some more measurements. I had the lift done and then measured before the new tires went on to measure just the difference with the suspension (and not the tires). Maybe someone understands suspension lifts better than me but interesting that the distance to the ground increased more than the distance between the wheel and the fender. Looks like ~3 inch difference with the TRD PRO suspension with a non-hybrid truck. I also raised the rear airbag adjustment to their max height with factory arms. Might need to look at leveling the rear a bit more.

After Lift (same tires):
Driver fender, top bolt to tread: 7 5/8 inches
Driver edge of bumper to ground: 17.5 inches
Passenger fender to tread: 7 3/4 inches
Passenger bumper to ground: 17 3/4 inches

The differences in measurements before and after the lift are as follows:
Driver fender, top bolt to tread: 3.12 inches
Driver edge of bumper to ground: 3.75 inches
Passenger fender to tread: 3.12 inches
Passenger bumper to ground: 4.19 inches

Running 285/75r18 with 1 inch wheel spacers. Going to get some extended brake lines for peace of mind.

 

Does the sr5 have a lower height than other trims? My understanding is that the pro suspension isn’t even 1.5” over other trims in the front, and it’s the same as all in the back.

 

I have a standard SR5. The sport does have a lower front but I don't have that. From what I read by other members is that the hybrid is 400 pounds heavier and that impacts the height of the TRD PRO. The TRD PRO is the same height in the rear. I have the factory auto leveling bags and those have an adjustment arm that I used to lift the rear to their max possible. The rear shock doesn't make a difference for the height.

 

Ah, I hadn’t considered the weight. I’m putting a 2/1” suspension lift on next week and am hoping to be at least as tall as the pro, but not so tall that I’ll need the red axles or a diff drop.

 

I'm 2wd so I don't have to worry about that. That might also play into the weight thing. But Toyota says the Pro are 1.1" lift in the front.

 

Forgive me if it’s been answered- two questions-
1. Rear factory air- same shocks as normal suspension?
2. Looking at a dobinsons setup with three different ideas. Use case is commuting 80%, towing 15% and light off-road 5%. 2” lift in front, 1.5 rear with the AFe airbag arms. I’ve got nokian NAT 295/70/18 on trd pro wheels. Long boy crewmax/6.5 bed. Supporting mods are trd grey upper control arms and trd lift axles.
A. IMS all around- cheapest and probably way more than I need.
B. MRA all around, priciest, and definitely way more than I need.
C. IMS front, MRA rear. Adjustable rear for towing, which mostly affects the rear.

I am a tinkerer and like the idea of the MRA- got the money but it seems like a lot to spend on something that probably won’t make that big a difference. Anyone still doing holiday sales? I missed the exit off road sale because I was indecisive. If I can find a sale I’ll call the dealers, but thought someone may have a less biased opinion when they aren’t selling you stuff.

 

apologies as these questions seem to get beat like a dead horse....but looking for confirmation. i have a 24' Limited with TRD OR suspension. i just ordered the Eibach Pro Truck Lift stage 2R as i'm planning on a 3/1 lift. i think i've came to the conclusion from reading that my CVs should be good since i have the OR suspension (longer ones?)....but do i still need UCAs and extended front/rear brake lines? was initially planning on the Westcott 3/1 kit and from the videos i've seen they haven't needed to upgrade the UCAs or brake lines. i like to be on the safe side. =)