1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I added white tape to the rear of the light channel there to act as a reflector. Worked gud

 

I swear I tested the other socket and it had no current in either position, or during any position of the headlights. Must be designed for multiple uses. Am I correct?

 

Naw that light coms on with your dash lights. (Headlights)

Did you have your dimmer know turned down?

The Black turn socket? I have no idea what it does

 

I very well may have, but I always run with it all the way up/bright.
It was broken at that time and I had rigged it red neck style.
May revisit that. Thx for the info

 

Make this into a thread so I can follow it. I wanna know why people say it's not worth the price. I wanna know if those uniball lowers eliminate the shit factory design. I have questions.

 

I found some answers. Also Rusty has some uniball UCAs he's looking to sell. MCM Fab. Figured you might be interested.

https://youtu.be/dE_LiLHPNNE?si=enFooBbpMK-33-Qk

 

You have to honestly ask yourself, what’s the ultimate goal for my rig?…trail king?…starbucks queen? Are you simply after a bit more lift height, and if so how much? I’ve spent thousands in the past on my jeep’s suspension so i’m not judging. But the tundra IFS platform cost so much dang $$$$ just to get a decent quality suspension and still not get very much ride height increase or suspension travel.

Anything uniball are more or less racecar parts and will automatically take more maintenance. Make sure to have multiple bottles of Tri-Flow around to keep them quiet. I will have to say that all those parts are pretty sweet looking.

 

https://www.srqfabrications.com/pro...QWOdeXHOQhSZnLpNCMDVQ7Vv5cztD9dYaAoxtEALw_wcB

 

Yeah this is my trail rig, my dirty girl.
She needs new LCA bushings and I been wanting Solo LCAs since they came out like 2-3 years ago. The uniball lowers are for both piece of mind and because apparently replacing the OEM LBJs on Solo LCAs is a PITA. Luckily my bro in law works at the local Ace Hardware, about a mile away. Coincidentally that's the only place in town that has TriFlow and he can give me a discount. Thanks for the tip.
These parts should go real well with my SPC uppers and King coil overs. This is all culminating in what has been a long game plan toward 35's, 17's, and big brakes.
I'm going to install my 4crawler 1" body lift soon enough. Once I've got everything install and dialed in, I'll let my bank account recover for a few months until the next big sales hit and buy five Koenig wheels, five 35x10.5r17 (or maybe 35x11.5r17) and the parts for the GX brake upgrade.
Pretty soon I'll be adding a leaf to my Alcan leaf packs, along with a 1" lift block. Then once another big sale hits I'll upgrade the rear shocks to Kings and see if I can bribe one of my fabricator buddies to do a shock relocation and any additional cutting/welding necessary to make the 35's fit.

 

That cost as much as all the front end parts I want to buy, plus wheels and tires. For someone who doesn't have coilovers, bump stops and UCAs already, it's not bad. But don't forget you'd still need fiber glass fenders

 

See, here's the point I'm at. My truck isn't a daily. Hasn't been in a long ass time. And if I'm going out and about, I'm more than likely taking the Vic. I also don't care what it drives like on the street. I had solid subframe bushings and solid motor mounts in the SHO. I'll take function over comfort all day long and twice on Sunday. But that begs the question: are uniballs any worse comfort wise, or just more maintenance? I'll shoot some lube in em every oil change. That's only once a year anyways. I don't see a downside besides price. If it helps me offroad that's all I care about.

Actually, @inv3ctiv3 just wrapped up his suspension build which is exactly what I want. I'm pretty sure he just got in my head and copy/pasted it.

 

I've had TC uppers and lowers on every truck I've owned. My Tacoma had LT for 70k miles and uni-ball TC uppers for over 100k miles with no issues besides regular maintenance. I also never put trifle in my uni balls; if they got squeaky, I'd pour boiling water in them, but that was rare. The ball joint replacements are fantastic on these trucks, but they are very tight at first, so you gotta break them in a bit. Uniballs are not difficult; do basic maintenance, and you'll be fine. If you're hypersensitive to the occasional squeak or noise, then maybe stay away, but if you are offroad your truck, there's no better option.

 

I'm not sure if this is common knowledge here, but I wanted to give it anyways just in case it helps someone.

If you don't have a key fob or your key fob battery is dead, you can put your key in the door and twist it clockwise twice to unlock all of the doors. Twisting it once will unlock only the drivers side door and twice will unlock all doors.

 

One of my Tundras came with a key fob. I tossed it in a kitchen drawer on day one and haven't touched it since. One of the reasons I drive older vehicles is that I don't have to be burdened by unnecessary gadgety stuff that fills my pockets. All I need is one thin little key to get in and start it. I have never replaced the battery in that key.

 

Some cool items on sale. This boot kit is a pretty good deal. The big brake kit looks like the TRD kit for 2nd gens.

https://exitoffroad.com/product-cat...-1st-gen/performance-upgrades-tundra-1st-gen/

 

This is the definition of hooptytrix

 

Went to a local salvage yard today to see the 1st Gen Tundras and remaining parts available. Found a 2003 AC with several cool features that I didn't know were available. First, it had a power rear sliding window. The control was in the dash next to the dimmer pot.

This same Tundra also had radio controls on the steering wheel.

 

You swipe that switch?

 

starting to cook down a batch of ceremonial Halloween 2-alarm chili, three bean (of course), in celebration of my Texas homeboys who can’t get enough beans in their chili. I may add a bunch of hominy this year just for the hell of it.

 

Nah. I thought about it, but I figured actually wiring that feature up would be more trouble than it was worth. I was actually looking for a fog lamp push switch. There were only 2 x 1st Gen Tundras on the yard and the other had all blanks in the dash.

 

Feeling a great relief tonight, it's all downhill from here.

 

A step in the right direction…..

 

03+ had the fog switch on the signal stalk

 

FTFY

 

Yep, it was there, but I was looking for the in-dash switch for the 2002.

 

You should install the stalk. It should be pre wired there. The wires attached to the back of the button blank in your truck will be for the rear slider. Take advantage of the wires to the stalk.

 

More like “Watch that last step!”.

 

Someday, someone will ask you to build them a stairway to a bar called Heaven. That should be fun. The exit will consist of a slide for the intoxicated into a cab.

 

I was in Brooks Hall. 4 stories IIRC.