1st gen shifter replacement prep

This is a PSA for 1ST GEN owners with a column shifter.

Attn: @shifty` put this where it belongs please.

I believe this may only apply to the early year (‘00-‘03?) Tundras with an auto trans and stalk shifter.
It’s been a common problem for the frame of the shifter mechanism to break. There are several threads on it here. The initial breakage is likely due to wimpy design and weak casting, paired with hard manual shifting.
Replacement shifters apparently have an issue of their own, however, it is easily correctable if done before the install. There are 2 bolts that attach different moving parts to the shifter mechanism. When you get your hands on the replacement, remove both of them, add thread locker, and reinstall. For reasons unknown, the manufacturer does not do this, and after a short time, the bolts will loosen up on their own. Once they do, the shifter will start to feel sloppy, and not go into all gears. I’m pretty sure at this point, most will try forcing it with brute strength, and end up with another broken shifter.
I installed a replacement only a few months before I started to feel the slop, and couldn’t shift into park. Fortunately for me, I had the thought to open it back up and see what was going on, rather than muscle it to death out of frustration. One of the bolts had backed itself out nearly a quarter of an inch. Loctite, reinstalled, and felt new once again.

TLR

shifter replacements need thread locker added to assembly bolts before install, as shown below

 

I wonder if that was the issue my buddy had with his 01 like 5 years ago. Iirc he found a thread on another forum where they fixed his shifter issue with a paperclip

 

Mine didn’t have to be forced to break, it just let go for no apparent reason.

 

Damn, I wish I'd have done that on crackie.

Also, there are some torx screws on the shifter bracket itself that go into non-threaded holes because they are LOBULAR screws, I recommend running those in and out of the new bracket before installing on the truck.

I had the whole column out and it let me fix a LOT of shit at once

 

Not sure how a paper clip would ever help in this particular situation. I imagine there are a couple different ways they can break, but it was the mounting flanges that broke on mine, and the only trustworthy permanent fix I could see was buying a new part. I did a questionable fix on mine with some drilling and thru-bolting, but only to get by until my part came in the mail. There was no way a paper clip could’ve helped me. Repost that thread if you can find it. It would be interesting to see what that’s all about

But did it start to feel sloppy first? Or just suddenly without warning?

 

Unfortunately not. It just let go one day when I was shifting out of park.

 

Throw on the e-brake & shift it at the trans?

 

Well, with it being aluminum, there’s finally something you can’t blame on ‘rust’ eh?
They’re just weak from poor design. Mine broke the same way. What me thinks, is that if you feel the slop, then it’s likely loose bolts, and can possibly be saved. And that will only happen with a replacement part installed.
So now, question of the day; did you add threadlocker to those bolts?

 

When mine broke, it would still move the linkage, but not into P or 2, as they’re at the ends of the range. Had to start in N

 

Yes, but I think it’s just the poor design and nature of cast aluminum. Stress fractures can show themselves at any time and just repeated use made it give out. A thin steel plate would prolong its life cycle since they’re not going to redesign it.

 

I think his had to do with the linkage. I remember asking him about it, but he never gave me a straight answer or a link. He's dead now, so...

 

Mine has about 1.5” of up and down play that I attribute to me resting my hand on it when driving to have easy access to the radio volume knob. Think it’s just loose bolts?

 

Mine does too. I bought the Dorman bushing thingy anyway, so I had the part on-hand if/when I ever dig into popping the column cover off.

Dude at the Toyo/Lex specialty shop who did my alingment mentioned it to me, said it was "due to people slamming the truck in and out of park". I told him I was aware of the faulty design that lends to cracking at the top corner of the mount. I think that was before I learned about the bushing fail.