Squealing when turning at low-med speeds

Anyone know what’s going on here? When turning the steering wheel, I’m getting an embarrassingly loud squeal. It sounds like it’s mostly coming from the passenger wheel assembly area. 2000 SR5 V8 4.7L RWD 158k miles. LBJs were replaced at 137k, so I can’t imagine it’s those. Replaced the steering rack bushings today cause they were worn all to hell and I thought it could be that, but the squeal persists. I sprayed WD40 on the tie rods ends while a friend steered the wheel and the sound continued, so I’m not sure it’s those.

Would love some guidance from the experts to get to the bottom of this. Video attached.

 

Sounds to me like your lower balljoints are about to fail, I take it you didn't use OEM? Only use OEM replacements. Use fresh bolts each time, and replace every 100-125k miles, LBJs are a wear item and don't last forever.

Don't fuck around, here's 15+ pages of people who couldn't be arsed to listen to very well known advice on the topic regarding using anything EXCEPT Toyota parts. You see where it landed them...

 

Thank you for the response Shifty. I had these replaced 20k miles ago, so I didn’t think it would be an issue, but I did use a mechanic and I’m not sure if they used OEM parts. I suppose it could be a bad batch of aftermarket LBJs?

 

Sure its aligned 100%? Tire wearing Even all across each tire?

 

I assure you they didn't use OEM LBJ, because I see a zerk on them when you kick the wheel all the way left, and OEM don't have that. Aftermarket LBJ you're lucky to get 10-20k miles out of them before catastrophic failure.

Yours are about two shakes away from failing, you're already on borrowed time. They'll be failing any day now. I personally wouldn't drive that truck if I were you.

 

PS, I think your valve covers may be leaking also. Either that or your power steering lines.

 

I appreciate your honesty and knowledge. I’ll get on this ASAP.

 

What made you assume lower ball joint? I'm not saying you're wrong, but I've never heard anyone say they made noise like that.

I have no idea what that noise could be but I agree he needs to replace those aftermarket LBJ'S regardless.

 

What brand LBJ did you install? Anything other than OEM is recipe for sudden disaster even at 20K miles or sooner...trust @shifty`

 

Well if everyone thinks its the LBJs - why not test them?

 

I’m with @shifty` . LBJs squeak like that when they are dry. Dry means no lube. No lube means increased wear. That means failure is coming.

 

I am trying to follow your guide for searching the Toyota parts site, after confirming my VIN it appears this is the right part. Excuse my lack of knowledge, but is there a way to know if this is both the left and right LBJ or just one singular one?

 

Check this post out. Look at post #17 and read the rest for more info


https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-part-numbers.97100/

 

Link to part numbers for bolts and joints for all years here LINK

 

Exactly.

@FirstGenVol that creak sound is the sound of metal on metal singing against each other, which you never want to hear. I’m guessing if @AlbertVandalay jacks up the truck to the point the driver side tire is off the ground, then repeats that action, effectively unloading the tension off the LBJ, the sound will magically reduce or disappear. Hopefully the ball doesn’t pop out of the joint when he sets it back down again.

My guess? Unless I’m mistaken, that’s a zerk* on the inner edge of the LBJ, between the front and rear mounting bolt. I’d put money on it, that he’s been driving around for 20k miles without squirting an ounce of grease in them, and they’re dry as a bone. Greasing them at this point won’t do anything, the damage is done, they need to be replaced.

I reserve the right to be wrong on this one, maybe it’s something in the rack or a poly bushing somewhere in the mix. Poly, I’d expect a higher pitch squeak, but the creaking we’re hearing (creaking just like a bad door hinge == metal on metal interference), but maybe he had some bushings replaced recently. Anyway, this is how you want to find out about the non-OEM LBJ threat. BEFORE catastrophic damage occurs.

 

I had the same exact squeak, replaced LBJs and it was gone. I’d never done anything other than an oil change and would’ve considered myself not super mechanically inclined at the time but it was not difficult and I’d recommend anyone with the time to do it.

is there anything else that might need replacement while in there?

 

Thank you!

 

Thank you Nick!

 

They were replaced by an independent mechanic, it is likely they aren’t OEM. I have already ordered replacement parts to replace them. You are right, I would CERTAINLY prefer to find out now instead of later!

 

Thank you for your comment. The job doesn’t appear to be too difficult. I’ll tackle it as soon as I get the call from the parts desk saying the orders there.

 

Hardest part is popping the outer tie rod off the LBJ without damaging the boot. 2nd hardest is popping the LBJ off the LCA. If you don't have a pitman arm puller and/or some other kind of adjustable puller to pop these free, have something on-hand for install day.

You'll also want (at least) blue Loctite.

If you need pointers or links to a good video that will guide you, holler.

 

Pickle forks are cheap and work great for this since the boot doesn't matter on this part.
Works great on a tie rod too but if you're trying to reuse then not such a great idea.

 

I was planning to use the below video as a guide. It looks like they just knock the tie rod end to pop it out and a jack to separate the ball joint. Is that not a good plan? Do you have a better video guide you’d recommend for this job? I saw shifty’s comment about the arm puller but, in all honesty, I’m not even sure where I’d use it.

 

So sometimes on the tie rod yes you can do what then did and it will come out, depends how stubborn it is.

You can see starting around 2:30 then have to beat on the ball joint stud to get it to separate. If you don't want to try and beat on that while it's only a foot or so off the ground (they have a lift) then I'd suggest a pickle fork, I think the one i have was about $12 or find a rental from an autoparts store. I had to use it on both sides and hit it pretty hard. Up to you what way you'd like to go.

 

Often times there isn’t enough room for the pickle fork to be used. The puller will fit into tighter spaces. Wacking with a hammer works 60% of the time for me though.

 

Pitman arm puller worked splendidly for me.

 

I've done it on plenty other vehicles, smack the side of the part with the hole and the shock will release the spindle. So far on my Tundra, with zero rust, and under 80k miles, it hasn't worked with:

• Factory Outer Tie Rod/OTR (out of the LBJ)
• UBJ (out of the UCA)
• LBJ (out of the LCA)

I know it can work, but for me it didn't work. I used a pickle fork to separate the OTR out of the LBJ. I used a pitman arm puller to pop the LBJ out of the LCA.

All I'm saying is, be prepared. There are plenty of cheap puller kits at Harbor Freight. Likewise, most parts stores do tool rental for kits. I have been doing this for decades so I have a slew of tools on-hand and rarely ever need to buy or borrow anything. I never assume others are similar.

 

I will probably pick one up from harbor freight just to be safe.

You mentioned the valve cover gaskets earlier, would you trust Fel-Pro gaskets from Amazon or should I get them directly from Advance auto parts?

 

OEM for the gaskets all day long
The pennies saved using after market can turn into a lot of time wasted

 

I don't trust anything from scAmazon. Never buy parts there. What you think is FelPro, and what comes in a FelPro box, there is no guarantee it's actually a genuine FelPro product, and scAmazon can't be held liable if it's not and it damages your vehicle. Same goes for fleaBay, you have no recourse if the parts end up being fakes/knockoffs and damage your vehicle, who are you going to sue, a fleaBay seller, or do you really have a chance against scAmazon's lawyers? I've gotten so many parts off that shithole.

There are plenty of other sellers out there you can trust who'll do you right, including Summit Racing, or Rock Auto. If you have a NAPA near you, I'd trust them too but you'll be paying the "NAPA premium" on parts.

FelPro is about the only other company I'd personally trust. But I'd rather do OEM. All the gasket numbers and the info you need to be aware of for installation is HERE in reply #18.