Unsure how to wire lightbars

So Im going to be installing these lightbars

(hood bulge)

$93 Nilight NI04-200W 1PC LED 41" 200W Spot Flood Combo Single Row 19000LM Off Road 3D Fog Driving Roof Bumper Light Bars for Jeep Ford Trucks Boat, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019XS8BKK?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

(Lower front Bumper)

$53 Nilight Led Light Bar Amber 31" 150W Super Slim Spot Flood Combo 14500LM 3D Driving Fog Off Road Lights for Trucks Pickup SUV ATV UTV Boat 4x4 Van Camper-2 Style Mounting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C85BB6YL?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

(switch)
https://caliraisedled.com/products/dual-function-toyota-oem-style-amber-white-switch-small-style

Ideally I would like to connect both light bars to this switch. Idk what I need to do/look for in a harness to make sure that 1. I dont blow a fuse and 2. I dont turn my truck into a moving fireball.

Is what I'm trying to do possible? Or should I just make it easy and buy a switch panel and add them individually?

 

The website for your switch could use a better diagram, but what you're describing should be possible.

The red wire included on the switch goes to your battery or wherever you're tapping in for power
Yellow wire can go to your dash lights or ignition, where the switch will be illuminated when your dash lights are turned on. You can also leave this unwired if you don't want the switch to ever be illuminated
Black is the ground
Green will go to the red wire for either the white light bar or the amber light bar
Blue will go to the red wire for either the white light bar or the amber light bar

You'll have to figure out for yourself whether the green wire is for white or amber, and vice verse. I'd use a multi-meter and see what color wire gets power when the amber switch is pressed to confirm, rather than the lights. Also confirm which color wire gets power when the white switch is pressed.

 

They really should be on individual switches with relays.

 

Just depends, if you want them both to turn on at the same time or be able to switch them individually.

 

That switch looked like it was a dual button switch.

 

You need a heavy duty wiring harness with a triggered relay to wire those properly. Do not tap directly into any of the fuse blocks to wire those.

 

If those lights pull the power they say they do, then you have 350W when they are both on. Call the battery V 13VDC and that gives you 350W/13V= 27 Amps. That is a lot of current to run from your power source (for that current it should be your battery), into your cab, and then to the lights. Unless you used very beefy wire you will get a lot of voltage drop. As others have said, using a relay (or two if you separate the lights out two the two different buttons on the switch) is the best option. Also, I didn't see a current rating on that switch. Can it handle almost 30A if you use just one of the switches in it (if you didn't use a relay)?
If you go with relays and just use the switch to turn the relay on/off, then you can use small wires in your cab (can connect to a 12V source in the cab and not worry about blowing fuses) and just use beefy wires from your battery through the relay and to your lights. ALWAYS put your fuse as close as reasonably possible to your power source (in this case the battery would be your best bet for that level of current). Fires or melted wires are not fun.

 

Thank you all for the advice!

I don't see myself using both at the same time but I'm getting the consensus that it may be best to just run two switches for each bar correct?

If that's the case what are recommendations for gang switches.

 

Switchpro

 

damn lol maybe a more budgeted option. That definitely looks like it could survive a nuclear blast but I don't quite have the funds for that at the moment.

 

Anyone had this? Thinking of getting this along with the two harnesses for the lights

would this work

 

Auxbeam for a budget option. I have the Auxbeam switch and I wire my ditch, chase, hood light bar, and lower valence light bar all to the Auxbeam.

 

I wouldn’t run 2 light bars to a single switch either, not worth the headache. I saw you said you may not run both of them at the same time - you probably will run all your lights at the same time down the road.

 

Voswitch can be purchased for ~$200. There are coupons for it to bring it down to that price. Much better looking switch than auxbeam and has a few more features as well. Slightly more expensive

 

I have that lightbar in the bulge. Get a auxbeam or switchpro (Spendy), mount up the auxbeam (or switchpro) and its breaker, runs lights off the auxbeam.

Way easier install. All the relays and switching is done for you that way and you get a nice switch panel in the truck to turn them on and off as you desire.

 

Sorry if this is stupid to ask, Im new to modding cars, but I just need to buy the wiring to go from the lightbars to the switch panel?

 

You just gotta make sure you have enough wiring to go to wherever you mount your control box.

 

so then something like this?

$7 Nilight 2PCS 16 AWG 10 Feet Wiring Harness Extension Kit for LED Work Light Bar Led Pods Off Road Lights Driving Fog Light Boat Lighting, 2 Years Warranty,black

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Wiring-Harness-Extension-10035W/dp/B08B7QRWTF?th=1

or could i use this and then cut ends off to connect to the fuse box?

$30 Nilight 16AWG LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit 12V On/Off 2 Gang Rocker Switch Panel Power Relay Blade Fuse 5Pin Toggle Switches for Cars Boat ATV Trucks-4 Leads

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Wiring-Harness-Trucks-4-Warranty/dp/B0CGZQQJH1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3FQ7H1390BPMIWvs31ubRpbSTzyxgMrfv9hCo4mtCF7eUWsIbtLDptuxWl7o2UWLaTXqHVHv126LAJGpgDRPI9hRXPP68BWQqXwde7jWj_Sw6puqvoMMVad4DrmVC0eebBqUXTBnyCBUnydFaoqJeFppO6cA1_9Sc9LORF4jStS9zcrJI5APVLFa2XtluOVSuk9S9HCFx0baHw-8sC1wKVdhFwc0w-TC-FllGxOCpIo.kXcqwqDf16032nUe4fHSkOdK1buaN_Udc7X20aXx-ps&dib_tag=se&keywords=wiring%2Bharness%2Bto%2Bswitch&qid=1729625332&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

It depends. Are you buying an Auxbeam or a Switchpro, or going to work out a cheaper switch? If you are going to work out a cheaper switch, you definitely need to add in relays. The harness you linked adds in the relays.

If you're still wanting to use the Cali-Raised Switch, you can buy the Nilight Harness with the Relays included, and wire it up to the Cali-Raised Switch. I personally don't like to run things off the OEM fuse box or fuse taps, but that's just me.



Otherwise the NiLight switch goes as follows.

 

Im going to get the auxbeam 6 gang, Im just trying to figure out what i need as far as cables go so I can order everything already and install it.

 

If you get the Auxbeam, all you’ll do is wire the control box to your battery, run the switch panel into your cab through the firewall grommet, and you can just cut off to desired length of wiring (you’ll only need the posi/neg wires to connect into the control box).

Here’s a photo for reference

 

If you get the Auxbeam, then you just have to run the black and red wires from both the light bars and plug them directly into the Auxbeam. The Auxbeam has relays built into it. If the light bars do not come with enough wiring, I would buy a roll of 16 AWG wire and some butt connectors, then extend the wires from the light bars to the Auxbeam that way (requires a crimping tool and a way to strip the ends of the wires)

Depending on where you put the brains of the Auxbeam module, you may have to extend the cables that run from your battery to the Auxbeam module as well. You'll definitely need thicker wire here, especially if you plan to use all six of the Auxbeam switches.

Additionally, if you put the actual Auxbeam switch too far from the brains of the Auxbeam module, you may have to extend the wires to the switch.

This video shows how to crimp butt connectors:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrpgeTqANKk

 

@guccigarcia
And to add, I’d probably suggest getting crimped heat shrinks so that way it’ll be secured even if you don’t crimp tightly.

 

I was planning on placing the fuse box on top of oe fuse box and then place the switch on the blank trim section above the mirror and light buttons.The amber would go in the bumper gap and the other bar will go in the hood bulge. Nothing will be long runs or anything.

for now I will just be using the two slots but if I grabbed a roll of 12 gauge would that be beefy enough for all 6 slots when that time comes?

 

If you're putting the Auxbeam module on top of the OE fuse box, then the supplied cables should be long enough. Mine came with two one foot lengths of 7(?) awg wire, one from the battery to the circuit breaker, and one from the circuit breaker to the Auxbeam module. I wouldn't run anything smaller than 8 AWG for these wires. 12 AWG would be fine for the light bars to the Auxbeam though.

 

so then did you replace the supplied cables from the auxbeam

 

Nope, I used the supplied cables.

 

Okay thank you everyone I think I got all the answers I needed. I will be ordering the auxbeam and light bars soon.